Ugly Step Sister Build

Here's the beginning of my build. I'm calling it Pandora because every time I look at it, something evil escapes.



Can anyone confirm if the left spindle is correct? Based on the diagrams on Sears Parts website and my other LT1000, the steering appears to be a draglink + tierod setup. Looking at the offroad tractor, I'm wondering if it's got a dual tierod setup.

Also, I got it to turn over yesterday. I tried to jump it with my Jeep, but I didn't have a good connection. The gas also looks and smells fresh. I hope to have the motor running soon.


Any advice or if you have any parts laying around would be great.

Looks like the previous owner rode it hard & put it away wet. The spindle is hacked up or wrong all together, it should be like your other. I'd guess between that & the attempt to make a butterfly steering wheel they were trying to make a direct steer, and failed. You might want to check the valve clearances too... they tend to tighten up faster with over-revving... and I'd bet the PO did his fair share of that.
Here's my LT1000's left spindle for comparison, it looks just like your mower.

I think that if you're handy with a welder you sould just make a new chasis with box sections and use the engine and tranny.

Looks like the whole front axle came off an mtd tractor and they stuck the craftsman spindles in.

Thanks guys. I had already priced the tie rod & bushings at like $15. A new spindle is $21. I may just have to bite the bullet and order some new parts.

From what little I messed with the engine, it seemed to have good compression. This is my first OHV Briggs, so I'm sure it'll be a learning experience. The other mower LT1000 sat outside for a year before I got it. Changed the oil, changed the gas, new fuel lines, charged the battery, and make sure it would turn over with a breaker bar and it ran fine. I hope this OHV is as stout.

Looks like a mess there! for starters a new hood front-end and steering wheel is really needed!
kinda reminds me of my craftsman when i first got it.

MSTEELE wrote:

Looks like a mess there! for starters a new hood front-end and steering wheel is really needed!
kinda reminds me of my craftsman when i first got it.

I'd love to see your your build thread and what you started with. First step is to get the motor running. If that's a bust, the rest of it's worthless. Then get the front steering sorted out. I got out and under it today and it looks like the rest of the steering is stock (compared to my stock LT100). My hope is that I just need to replace the left spindle, and install a tie rod to get the steering fixed. Once I get all the parts replaced, then the steering wheel is going to need centered in relation to the steering gear.

I also got a good look at the front axle, and it's not the original. Looks like somebody was trying a solid axle swap. I hope I can reuse that axle once I get some new spindles.

At that point I'm ready to start playing. If figure I'll eventually come up with a hood or fab something up. I'm considering using a steel drum or have some galvanized duct sheet metal bent up to make a hood.

I just wish it was warmer and the days were longer so I could work on it after work.

Quick Update: I just won this on ebay. Should make my life easier. The current axle looks beefier, and I hope I can use it with the spindles off of this axle. If not I'll probably mount this axle and sell the other one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200692625972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3113wt_1396

dagr8tim wrote:

MSTEELE wrote:

Looks like a mess there! for starters a new hood front-end and steering wheel is really needed!
kinda reminds me of my craftsman when i first got it.

I'd love to see your your build thread and what you started with. First step is to get the motor running. If that's a bust, the rest of it's worthless. Then get the front steering sorted out. I got out and under it today and it looks like the rest of the steering is stock (compared to my stock LT100). My hope is that I just need to replace the left spindle, and install a tie rod to get the steering fixed. Once I get all the parts replaced, then the steering wheel is going to need centered in relation to the steering gear.

I also got a good look at the front axle, and it's not the original. Looks like somebody was trying a solid axle swap. I hope I can reuse that axle once I get some new spindles.

At that point I'm ready to start playing. If figure I'll eventually come up with a hood or fab something up. I'm considering using a steel drum or have some galvanized duct sheet metal bent up to make a hood.

I just wish it was warmer and the days were longer so I could work on it after work.

Mine is the yellow one .as the avatar and signature.

dagr8tim wrote:

Quick Update: I just won this on ebay. Should make my life easier. The current axle looks beefier, and I hope I can use it with the spindles off of this axle. If not I'll probably mount this axle and sell the other one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200692625972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3113wt_1396

sweet deal if it works and you got a welder id take and weld it solid along the seams the factory should of did it like that but they didnt lol.

gearheadmike wrote:

dagr8tim wrote:

Quick Update: I just won this on ebay. Should make my life easier. The current axle looks beefier, and I hope I can use it with the spindles off of this axle. If not I'll probably mount this axle and sell the other one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200692625972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3113wt_1396

sweet deal if it works and you got a welder id take and weld it solid along the seams the factory should of did it like that but they didnt lol.

I've got a little 110 flux core welder. I want to do something like fearless front did with his craftsman crawler. I'm hoping I can swap the craftsman spindles on to the existing axle, because it appears to be a solid cast axle. Unlike the stamped/welded axle that's stock.

I got some decent time to work on the tractor today. I had some success and failures, but enjoyed myself.

I could get it to crank pretty easy last night, so I decided to check for spark. With the tractor hooked up to my Jeep for a boost a managed to shock myself pretty good. That told me I had spark. From there I just cranked it for about 20 seconds with the Jeep hooked up and it fired. After that if fired really easily.

Here's a vid of it running.


While getting it out of the garage to try to start it, I realized the brakes were not working. I was missing most of the hardware that goes on the brake rod. I tried to improvise with some washers and a metal bushing, but broke the brake lever on the transaxle. Now I need to source the lever and the hardware.

From there I decided to see if craftsman spindles would fit the unknown axle welded to the tractor. The craftsman spindles are slightly too large. When I was putting the spindle back on the other craftsman, I destroyed the lower bushing and couldn't get the top one in. I'll need to fix that before I can mow too much this spring.

But back to the offroad tractor. Here's what I need to do to go romping.
- Grind off the front axle and replace it with Craftsman axle that will be delivered on Monday.
- Source the brake parts to have brakes
- Order the tie rod to complete the steering

I wish I could find a tractor junk yard here in Ohio. It'd make my life easier.

I got out and made some progress on the tractor today. I've got video's, but here's the short explanation.

I was missing the knob for the shifter rod and I had already discovered the knob was the same size as the one on my other LT1000. This morning I got up early and went to scout my local junk yard. I picked up a pistol grip shifter knob from a Toyota that fits well.


This afternoon, I also started tearing into the tractor. I started removing pointless stuff, and playing with some ideas. I think I've came up with a way to fix the brakes without having to spend any money. I also have an idea for a gas pedal mod that will make it look like the brake pedal. Lastly, I take a good look at what it's going to take to remove the old front axle and get the steering right.


I was hoping to take the tractor for a ride this weekend, but that didn't work out. Shooting for next weekend if the weather works out. This is why I hate to buy somebody's unfinished project. Too many loose ends and too much time trying to figure out what the PO was trying to do.

Man in the brown truck brought me something today. My replacement axle came and I was surprised to find that it included the tie rod assembled on it. I was planning on having to buy one. I'd be ready to romp if I hadn't broken the brakes.

I find having a few parts tractors around saves alot in buying parts - if you have the room- look for dirt cheep or free non runners . I saved a lot when i had to replace the front axle on one of my mowers , and a magneto on another - even use decent looking belts of clunkers , not to mention all the nuts and bolts .

Cast iron axles arent all theyre cracked up to be- they can break easier then steel ones actually- steel ones can be reinforced .

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

I find having a few parts tractors around saves alot in buying parts - if you have the room- look for dirt cheep or free non runners . I saved a lot when i had to replace the front axle on one of my mowers , and a magneto on another - even use decent looking belts of clunkers , not to mention all the nuts and bolts .

Cast iron axles arent all theyre cracked up to be- they can break easier then steel ones actually- steel ones can be reinforced .

Really, the ugly step sister was going to be parts at first for my other LT1000. I do agree that parts tractors are the way to go. I've posted 2 ads on CL offering to buy and haul away non working tractors. Both have been flagged for removal. Somebody must think I'm trying to crowd in on their gig.

Got the front axle swapped and steering straightened out. I had to grind off the welds for the incorrect axle and then a quick run to Lowes for the hardware to mount it.

Can anyone tell me how much articulation the front axle is supposed to have in stock form? It seems that the bolts for the front deck hangers are the limiting factor.

I just scan CL for cheep stuff - sometimes it takes a while - i had posted on the local freecycle ( thru yahoo) but posting there means you need to post something you want to give away as well. try posting a ad at local grocery store bulliten bord.

Most times i just look while riding around, ask freinds /coworkers /reletives/neighbors - most tractors i got years ago were from coworkers , about 3 on the average from each one.


Axle articulation isnt a whole lot - maybe a few inches on each side - adding larger/taller front tires will gain some more actually.

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

I just scan CL for cheep stuff - sometimes it takes a while - i had posted on the local freecycle ( thru yahoo) but posting there means you need to post something you want to give away as well. try posting a ad at local grocery store bulliten bord.

Most times i just look while riding around, ask freinds /coworkers /reletives/neighbors - most tractors i got years ago were from coworkers , about 3 on the average from each one.


Axle articulation isnt a whole lot - maybe a few inches on each side - adding larger/taller front tires will gain some more actually.

Guy next door has atleast 3 old ones hanging out under the overhang of his shed. I should go talk to him sometime. I just need to clear out some garage space or build a shed before I get any more toys.

I'm going to say I have somewhere between 4 & 6 inches of articulation. I'll work on the tires after I actually get it running. I still need to get the brakes straightened out.

On most my mod tractors im using 1" straight axles - yeah theyll be a pain to steer...but the traction will be worth it. I bot a couple different brake setups, but id like to try using a hydraulic automobile brake setup sometime also.

I have a couple stock mowers that stop horribly as well - Ford Boi suggested using automobile brake material and slotting the stock rotors- i slotted the rotor- just need to do the pad .

Tractor brakes really arent that hard to work on- only thing is theyre disimilar metals - aluminum caliper and steel bolts - i suggest a dab of never seize when putting it back together, not too much tho as it can contaminate the brakes.

If the pins are stuck - i set the caliper flat on a bench or concrete floor and just tap the pins out with a hammer, then clean em up real good, lil antiseize and slap it back together - hardest part sometimes is getting the wheels off....

Got a chance to mess around in the garage today before I got too cold. I found a replacement steering wheel and shifter bazel, and got them installed. I also got a set of the brake hardware too. I just need to get the brake lever to get that back together.

I also started messing with some ideas for a gas pedal, and found a 3/8 bike cable with a loop on both ends for a lock. It's about 3 feet long and may make a nice recovery cable. I also found one of the seat belt assemblies from my parts Jeep. I should be able to make a 6 foot strap out of seat belt to use as a recovery strap too.

I shot some vids that I'll probably post on youtube later.

from my experience, 6 foot would be long enough for a tow strap. but too short to pull one out of the mud without getting the puller stuck

rat88 wrote:

from my experience, 6 foot would be long enough for a tow strap. but too short to pull one out of the mud without getting the puller stuck

True. I'm just cheap so I'm looking for recovery solutions that cost little or no money.

IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've been trying to scrounge up the last few parts in order to put as little money into it as possible. I still needed the C clips for the front axles, the washers for spacers, and the brake lever. Today I was wandering through lowes, and decided to look at their hardware. I found the hardened 3/4" washers and the 3/4" C clips for under $4.

I got home and got the front wheels on. After afew attempts to jump it with no crank, I realized I had removed the blade engagement lever and switch. I was able to start it by holding in the button on the blade engagement switch while cranking it. I also figured out a way to trim down the hood and reuse it.

All that's left is to put the brakes back together and figure out how to bypass the blade engagement switch.

what i do on switches is un plug them cut the end off and wire nut the two wires together.