60's Springfeild Mini Speed Tractor

LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:

Nice Red!  Good to see a rolling chassis!  How 'bout a full mock-up with motor hood and all?

Concitering the hood is about as long as the frame, it's gunna be a while till I cut it down. I have to make all the steering and steering colum/dash before I cut the hood.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:

Nice Red!  Good to see a rolling chassis!  How 'bout a full mock-up with motor hood and all?

Concitering the hood is about as long as the frame, it's gunna be a while till I cut it down. I have to make all the steering and steering colum/dash before I cut the hood.

Ok.

thats pretty nice, how fast do you what to go, good job nice build, thats a good tractor to start with

kawasaki220 wrote:

thats pretty nice, how fast do you what to go, good job nice build, thats a good tractor to start with

Im gearing it for 45mph, and a springfeild mini mower, dont know anything about it or year.

Build a mini tractor with a huge engine is now on my list of things to do. The engine is like half the size of the whole thing! Looks nice once you get some tires on there.

Thunderdivine wrote:

How did you calculate that 45mph on those tiny wheels,    remember to race in 3rd on your 5 speed Peerless.
-And are you gonna overdrive it like *heymow* recommend? Like not 1:1 but 2 or 3:1?

race in 3rd? and i dont want to over speed the tranny, so just 1:1, i dont see the logic behind over speeding the tranny, just oil filling it

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

How did you calculate that 45mph on those tiny wheels,    remember to race in 3rd on your 5 speed Peerless.
-And are you gonna overdrive it like *heymow* recommend? Like not 1:1 but 2 or 3:1?

race in 3rd? and i dont want to over speed the tranny, so just 1:1, i dont see the logic behind over speeding the tranny, just oil filling it

Yea Rip it in 3rd, the 3rd gear is usually, if not always Machined Steel and not Zintered Steel.

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

How did you calculate that 45mph on those tiny wheels,    remember to race in 3rd on your 5 speed Peerless.
-And are you gonna overdrive it like *heymow* recommend? Like not 1:1 but 2 or 3:1?

race in 3rd? and i dont want to over speed the tranny, so just 1:1, i dont see the logic behind over speeding the tranny, just oil filling it

Yea Rip it in 3rd, the 3rd gear is usually, if not always Machined Steel and not Zintered Steel.

I think im fine concertinaing the majority of the stress is in lower gears.

Some progress...
Clean $5 gas tank


Still need 8 14mm nuts, its stupid how hard it is to find 8 really. like lowes only goes to 12mm, local hardware store had 4, and tractor supply had 3. Not happy at all!


Some placement of the main components too, just seeing spacing. need a good chain guard!

Looking good!

craftsmancole wrote:

Looking good!

Thanks!

Thunderdivine wrote:

Yea Rip it in 3rd, the 3rd gear is usually, if not always Machined Steel and not Zintered Steel.

Odd. This is NOT consistent with all the info I have gathered. According to my own research, the reason guys use third gear is because both gears in the third gear gearset are typically matched in tooth count (25/25) and therefore one gear is NOT weaker than the other.

Red- The common belief in overdriving the transmission comes down to REDUCING the amount of torque being applied to the input. Multiplying RPM divides torque and vise-versa.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

Yea Rip it in 3rd, the 3rd gear is usually, if not always Machined Steel and not Zintered Steel.

Odd. This is NOT consistent with all the info I have gathered. According to my own research, the reason guys use third gear is because both gears in the third gear gearset are typically matched in tooth count (25/25) and therefore one gear is NOT weaker than the other.

Red- The common belief in overdriving the transmission comes down to REDUCING the amount of torque being applied to the input. Multiplying RPM divides torque and vise-versa.

But wouldnt you have to machine the case for needle bearings if you overdrive it that much?

To me i dont see a big problem with the setup anyways, i mean stock motor, 3.50 wide rear tires, very light, they are the exact opposite

[quote="Thunderdivine" they say the 3rd gear on a 5-speed is usually Machined Steel. "They" being hewmow guys [/color][/quote]

Y'know, that's weird. I was all over heymow when I was researching, never saw that. What I CAN tell you, is that I own 3 different sub-models of 700. One 3 speed and 2 5-speeds. All gear pairs in all of them, are sintered- which are easy to spot once you know what you're looking for.

Now I DO know there were some more desirable sub-models with machined input pinion and bevel gears, and they provide OEM part numbers should you wish to upgrade.

have got to say this build is looking pretty bad ass!

untrusty huskee wrote:

have got to say this build is looking pretty bad ass!

Thank you sir! I try my best, just taking my time.

More work done, Got my 14mm nuts and set 3 degrees camber.



Bad pic of me (screen shot from video) in relation to the size of the mower on all 4. Im 5' 7"


Drilled all the holes in angle iron that i cut to flat stock, and mounted it to the 700, its just clamped for now, because i need to know how the steering and spacing of battery is going to work out. Ran chain to see where its gunna go, just for curiosity too.



And heres a kinda big problem, i knew the crankshaft was gunna stick out the bottom a little, i was thinking 1/2", make a skidplate or something. its actually more like 1", so i need to put some spacers to lift the engine a inch. not sure how im going to do it quite yet, but im thinking some spacers and just brace them, but i want some imput from you guys.

You could get some engine spacers.  I know that my Craftsman Rally had spacers between the little Teccy that it had in 'er and the mounting plate.  If you could fine one of those tractors your junkyard you could get the engine spacers off of it.  They are only like a half inch or 3/4 inch lift in the spacer though.

LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:

You could get some engine spacers.  I know that my Craftsman Rally had spacers between the little Teccy that it had in 'er and the mounting plate.  If you could fine one of those tractors your junkyard you could get the engine spacers off of it.  They are only like a half inch or 3/4 inch lift in the spacer though.

Wouldnt hurt to look. I was just wondering because of how much torque is involved in the engine mounts, obviously i dont want anything going wrong.

I think u would be fine if u just put regular spacers in it. but if u do find that plate its worth a try

jsisti845 wrote:

I think u would be fine if u just put regular spacers in it. but if u do find that plate its worth a try

I think ive decided to use 1"x1" box tubing, and just drill a hole through it and make a spacer. box the ends too and weld the box to the plate. should be ok, not super ugly

You could cut the ends of the square tube on an angle, that might look kind of neat. The openings between the square tube could have some screen or something over it, like a vent for belt cooling.

Thunderdivine wrote:

Why not just let it protrude some? Or will the pulley be on the end there?

- If you just want a guard I would just weld angle iron on the bottom of the frame and shorten the ends, kinda like rails.

And it looks tiny lol, I guess your not that big so.

I see now that mr.modified was talking about the same.

Well the problem is its about 3/4" or so off the ground, and the crank is like almost right in the middle of the front and rear tires, the most common area it will bottom out. I'd like it level with the bottom if the frame so I have to space it out.