1987 Deutz-Allis, AKA: Mean Green

How things change.

I had planned to build my '81 Allis Chalmers 616 into a serious mudding machine until I was trying to resolve a problem on my Deutz-Allis today and realized I need a new input shaft on my hydro unit. It didn't take long to decide to use the Deutz instead of the Allis. The Allis rear frame was set up for a peerless with offset axles. In order to get my non offset 820 in there it was going to require a bunch of work I really didn't want to do.

However, all I had to do was weld some new angle onto the Deutz transaxle mounts and I was good to go. So, my son, Jonus, and I stripped the steering group off, dropped the hydro transaxle and started fabbing before I could change my mind.

I will try to post some pictures showing a days work:

Mice had already been doing some modding
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Motor will come off tomorrow
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Factory Hydro, Factory Tires
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No more Acorns
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820 mounted and installed
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Side view with temporary tires. They are both two inches smaller than planned, but they were handy
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Looks Crazy, LOL
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Rear tires used for setup (You may have to stand on your head)
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Plenty of clearance still
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Setup tires on the front
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Factory 12.5hp, 18hp, 14.5hp, or 21hp? Let me know what you think? I'll do whatever the ATLTF thinks is the way to go
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FYI if you are uploading pictures in bulk you can just put them in one post.
(Please make sure to hit enter between them to avoid a super long line of pictures horizontally).

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using this method.
https://www.atltf.com/t1480-how-to-upload-pictures?highlight=how+pictures
It wouldn't let me add more than one.

i would plop the 18.5 oppy or the Vtwin in there. looks good, its come a long way. you could probably fit 25's under those rear fenders. i did with my bolens

I have been planning for 25x12.00-12's on the rear and 20x7.00-8's out front. I have 2 inches clearance at the rear right now so I should be able to put them on and have an inch to spare.
I am really leaning towards the 18hp Oppy. But we will see. I need to go to the In-Laws today so it will have to wait. That will give some of the forum members time to chime in with their opinions. As I stated in the pics I posted, whatever gets the most votes is how I plan to go. The only thing that concerns me is I plan to put some seriously aggressive tread on the rear and I don't know if the HP the V-Twin makes is going to cut it, versus the Torque of the Opposed. Ya Know?

I may be the odd man out on this. And iv never had the chance to run a v twin. But i think a single is plenty. Iv ran a couple of oppys an i think my sinle out performed them all. There easyer yo work on. Not as many things to work on. Lighter and less expinsive. I am parsial to OHV singles. Good luck.

Does anyone know of a document that lists the respective horse power and torque ratings for the various briggs engines made to date? Would be handy to have.

@CornShuck4CE
What motor does that tractor have in it doing the rock climbing/crawling on your Youtube channel? The flamed one?
That video with ya'all climbing that rocky stream is SICK! Some of the best vids yet. Gotta love Alabama.  

Khal03 wrote:

using this method.
https://www.atltf.com/t1480-how-to-upload-pictures?highlight=how+pictures
It wouldn't let me add more than one.

I had the same problem. Solved it by adding a pic. Then hitting "Preview" instead of post. Then go back to editing. Add another pic. Hit preview again. Etc...

As for the motor... There is no substitute for horsepower!

@Angchor
Thanks Brother! I was hoping someone would come through and help me out. I should get some motors off today and get some swapping going on. So I will need to do some more photo updates. Thanks again.

Thats my mower. Its got a 16.5 OHV high performance pressure lube B&S. With custom exaust and custom cold air / snorkle kit to help it breath better. 
I love this motor performs very well. Id trade two twins for one of thease motors.

tell me this, CornShuck4CE, how do you know where to put your four link bars in your setup? Is there some geometry that has to be maintained as I would presume, or what? It looks to me, like the two mount locations on the tractor frame need to be within certain parameters to maintain proper travel downward without arcing. But as well, they have to be spaced right so as not to bind on one another when the suspension travels up too, right?