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 '93 Cub Cadet Off Road

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CC4Life
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PostSubject: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:01 pm

This will be my first off road build so ANY advice or if you see me doing something that will not work PLEASE speak up and save me some headaches lol.  I truly appreciate any advice or suggestions you may have in advance.

Though this is my first mower build, I am mechanically inclined to a degree and feel safe in saying there is nothing I can't do to a mower.  I have rebuilt motorcycle/ATV and auto engines before, I own a mig welder and stick welder and know how to use them well so doing this should be within my grasp lol.

I became interested in off road mowers from youtube, thanks mostly to Fearlessfront and his amazing video's.  I will be busy for the next couple of months relocating to a new home I just bought out of state so the build will commence most likely at the end of this summer when I am settled.  But during this time I would like to at least start compiling parts/donors I may need to do my build.

I will be using a 1993 Cub Cadet 1330 as my platform.  I have owned it and mowed my lawn with it for more than 15 years and it's been a great machine.  Recently I am noticing the Hydro trans is not working all that great anymore, the deck is well... about 3 years on borrowed time thanks to my welding and replacing metal on it to the point there isn't much left that is original.  So yeah, time to recycle this mower!

My Vision:

Complete tear down, rebuild, painted and polished.  Want to keep classic CC colors, but I have a twist in mind for my paint scheme.

The Rear of the mower:
Replace the tired Hydro with a Peerless 820.  The trans MUST be durable, I would like to place 27" to 28" tall tires on the rear.  The thing is I have access to 4 really nice 11 or 12"(tall) X 8 (wide) ATV rims with some serious 27 or 28" mud tires mounted that have maybe 20 hours of ride time on them, best part -FREE!  I am sure I will need a little fender/body lift to fit them under, but by my calculations it won't be much.  The rims and tires my father bought 5-6 years ago for his Yamaha Grizzly thinking his stock tires would not be great plowing snow.  He put them on, plowed some snow and after the snow these tire shredded his yard just driving casually through it and he swapped back to stock and has been perfectly content with them never using the mega tracks again lol,  I am sure he will just give them to me.  But yeah Peerless 820 sound up to the task?

Also going to add fender flares, utility rack, bumper and lock the diff.

Front of the mower:
I will have 2 rims from above as there will be 4 total, but I think the tires would be over kill for the front not to mention I believe it would make me feel as I were driving up hill my entire ride lol.  So I may use smaller rims or stick to the freebies and swap tires to maybe a 20 or 22" ATV tire.  

I also want to widen the stance up front for more stability and turning clearance for the larger tires.  Maybe 4 or 5 inches?  If I'm not mistaken the 820 peerless is 2 or 3 inches wider than my hydro also, might be wrong there though.

2000 lb winch and pre runner bumper up front also.  Will need to reconfigure the hood hinging for this.

I want front fenders!  More so to keep spash from going inside motor/belt area than off myself, so they won't really hide the front wheels, just kind of just reach to them from the side kind of thing.

Engine/Drive:
My CC currently has a 12.5 HP Kohler and it's a great engine but it has been suggested I seek a little more uummmppffff with the tire size I want.  Soooo... I have a 4-5 year old Craftsman that runs and cuts great thanks to my new wife, what was hers is now mine!   Anyways, it has a 16 hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard Twin Cylinder engine with overhead valves.  I am thinking... secret engine swap!  Thoughts?

Pulleys will be swapped to give me some speed but not a ton.  I don't want to give up to much torque, so I will have to play with those when the time comes I guess.

Accessories:
From the Mule build, I absolutely LOVE the air compressor Idea, so that's a must.
LED lights front and rear
Battery upgrade
Oil pressure gauge
Already has volt gauge
And I am sure I will think of more once this gets going.

Please feel free to offer your opinions, thoughts, idea's and questions.

Here is a photo of the CC now.


[url=http://illiweb.com/fa/pbucket.gif]


Last edited by CC4Life on Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:43 pm; edited 3 times in total
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craftsmancole
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PostSubject: Re: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:52 pm

A 820 can definitely handle that, my 820's locked and I'm putting 28" Interco Aqua Torques on it and I'm not worrying about it, and on the Vangaurd.... listen to this!
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CC4Life
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PostSubject: Re: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:04 pm

@craftsmancole wrote:
A 820 can definitely handle that, my 820's locked and I'm putting 28" Interco Aqua Torques on it and I'm not worrying about it, and on the Vangaurd.... listen to this!

LMAO sounds like a Harley!   The one on the Craftsman sounds decent, but quiet now.  I would definitely do a custom exhaust to make it sound all rumbly.  Good to hear your take on the 820 though.

Think the Craftsman 42" cut will suffer badly from dropping to a 12.5 HP?  The CC is a 38" cut, but I would blow through pretty tall grass full forward and 3/4 throttle  (5 MPH lol) and never flinch, so I am thinking... hoping the 42" Craftsman will do ok or I may need to find another motor.
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redlinemotorsportts
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PostSubject: Re: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:05 pm

Great introductory! Ok, ill give you some feedback.
ive worked on a 1330 cub, looks like good material for frame, strong, mostly a once piece frame. Cast iron front axle and 3/4" spindles i think.

820's are the cats ass when it comes to vertical input transaxles, nothing better. Should hole up to 27-28's fine. I dont think youll have to worry about it. Because of the 1" axles, you need 1" rim bores. Sounds like you can get 12" ATV rims witch usually have a 4 lux (4"x4") pattern. You can buy these 4x4 hubs w/1" bore and 1/4" keyway for the 820 from BMIkarts.com for $45 ish... 820 new is kinda pricey. Ask Doug Fackler on new prices. You might have to raise the fenders in the rear or lift the rear axle a few inches to clear those monster tires, thats a different topic in its own.

Locked axles and bumpers are a must if you plan on serious offroading. Look at this thread on locking axles: http://www.atltf.com/t3217-how-to-transaxle-locking-methods?highlight=locking+transaxles
Fender flares and racks are very popular for carrying extra gas, tools, rope etc, good idea!

On the front of the mower, 20's would be the limit of those spindles, you run into the spindles bending with big tires, sutch as from jumping logs. Yamaha quads have a nice front tire, 21's usually. you can adapt your stock rim to the 10" or whatever size rim you go with by cutting the halfs of a rim and centering and welding the center section to your new rims. i have done it multiple times with great success.




Stancing the front end will clear tires but the cast iron axle is a problem. you could ditch it for some other steel axle that you can cut and weld but i dont have very many suggestions on that. You can lift the front axle a few inches and that will clear front tires. Just brace the lift appropriately.

Go crazy on front bumper ideas, can change the look of your rig drastically! Winch is a great idea too. cheap one from harbor freight is a good investment. Front fenders will help a bunch, while i dont have them i can say that i have soaked plenty of jeans from fast riding.

Vanguard will put out a lot more power to spin them tires, and they sound beautiful straight piped. If it has a oil filter on it, its pressure lube, so you can put a oil gauge on it for fun.

Suggestions:
Bombproof the steering while your at it. Heim rod ends are superior, i get mine from snowmobiles. Thick tie rods and drag links save a lot of headache on the trail. MUD KING on youtube, his tractor has eliminated stock steering gears. he uses a auger box from a snow blower. ill have to draw up how i would do it, because he didnt do a video on it.

Maybe a bigger gas tank, longer rides.

LED lights are superior, low draw, so you can run lots of them!

On the front spindles, you can weld a bolt to the end of the spindle, and use two nuts and jam/tighten them against each other, then you wont run into problems of the cotter pin breaking and your tire falling off.

A belly pan helps if you drive in a swap, or on brush, from getting in the belt system. Note that this does not keep your belt dry. Skid plates under the axle help out a bunch on rocks, Doc Sprocket can tell you about not having one after he recently broke his axle apart on rocks.

Pulley swap is very popular and i highly suggest it. Makes riding way more fun. Wheel speed for cleaning tires out in mud pits too. I suggest a 1:1 ratio, same pulley on engine as trans axle. like 5" to 5" or 6" to 6" so the belt gets traction. Look at a double pulley clutch and strong spring for no belt slipping if or when it all gets submerged. Fearless has a video on that if you havnt already seen it.

Maybe a hitch to move trailers if you have any. I dont use mine a lot but when i do its very helpful.

Have fun with your build, sounds like you have your plate full!
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CC4Life
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PostSubject: Re: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:25 pm

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:
Great introductory! Ok, ill give you some feedback.
ive worked on a 1330 cub, looks like good material for frame, strong, mostly a once piece frame. Cast iron front axle and 3/4" spindles i think.

820's are the cats ass when it comes to vertical input transaxles, nothing better. Should hole up to 27-28's fine. I dont think youll have to worry about it. Because of the 1" axles, you need 1" rim bores. Sounds like you can get 12" ATV rims witch usually have a 4 lux (4"x4") pattern. You can buy these 4x4 hubs w/1" bore and 1/4" keyway for the 820 from BMIkarts.com for $45 ish... 820 new is kinda pricey. Ask Doug Fackler on new prices. You might have to raise the fenders in the rear or lift the rear axle a few inches to clear those monster tires, thats a different topic in its own.

Locked axles and bumpers are a must if you plan on serious offroading.  Look at this thread on locking axles:  http://www.atltf.com/t3217-how-to-transaxle-locking-methods?highlight=locking+transaxles
Fender flares and racks are very popular for carrying extra gas, tools, rope etc, good idea!

On the front of the mower, 20's would be the limit of those spindles, you run into the spindles bending with big tires, sutch as from jumping logs. Yamaha quads have a nice front tire, 21's usually. you can adapt your stock rim to the 10" or whatever size rim you go with by cutting the halfs of a rim and centering and welding the center section to your new rims. i have done it multiple times with great success.




Stancing the front end will clear tires but the cast iron axle is a problem. you could ditch it for some other steel axle that you can cut and weld but i dont have very many suggestions on that. You can lift the front axle a few inches and that will clear front tires. Just brace the lift appropriately.

Go crazy on front bumper ideas, can change the look of your rig drastically! Winch is a great idea too. cheap one from harbor freight is a good investment. Front fenders will help a bunch, while i dont have them i can say that i have soaked plenty of jeans from fast riding.

Vanguard will put out  a lot more power to spin them tires, and they sound beautiful straight piped.  If it has a oil filter on it, its pressure lube, so you can put a oil gauge on it for fun.

Suggestions:
Bombproof the steering while your at it. Heim rod ends are superior, i get mine from snowmobiles. Thick tie rods and drag links save a lot of headache on the trail.  MUD KING on youtube, his tractor has eliminated stock steering gears. he uses a auger box from a snow blower. ill have to draw up how i would do it, because he didnt do a video on it.

Maybe a bigger gas tank, longer rides.

LED lights are superior, low draw, so you can run lots of them!

On the front spindles, you can weld a bolt to the end of the spindle, and use two nuts and jam/tighten them against each other, then you wont run into problems of the cotter pin breaking and your tire falling off.

A belly pan helps if you drive in a swap, or on brush, from getting in the belt system. Note that this does not keep your belt dry. Skid plates under the axle help out a bunch on rocks, Doc Sprocket can tell you about not having one after he recently broke his axle apart on rocks.

Pulley swap is very popular and i highly suggest it. Makes riding way more fun. Wheel speed for cleaning tires out in mud pits too. I suggest a 1:1 ratio, same pulley on engine as trans axle. like 5" to 5" or 6" to 6" so the belt gets traction. Look at a double pulley clutch and strong spring for no belt slipping if or when it all gets submerged. Fearless has a video on that if you havnt already seen it.

Maybe a hitch to move trailers if you have any. I dont use mine a lot but when i do its very helpful.

Have fun with your build, sounds like you have your plate full!  


Awesome feedback! Great tips too! Thanks! Once this thing gets started I am sure to be pestering everyone on a bunch of issues, but posts like yours will hopefully help me going in the right direction. Thanks again.
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CC4Life
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PostSubject: Re: '93 Cub Cadet Off Road    Sat Apr 19, 2014 2:17 pm

Well still in the planning stages, but had a thought. ( I know scary right?) It would be fairly simple to make ATV style upper and lower control arms, knuckled axles etc for the rear, though I would most likely order actual ATV drive hubs etc for about $50.00 or so per and of course struts/shocks which are pretty cheap (gotta love Chinese ATV parts). It would widen my rear stance a bit so I would most likely make a single control arm suspension on the front to match the stance of the rear. One thing I really like about this in the rear is it takes allot of pressure (weight wise) off of the trans axle and it's axle's since now they would only be driving instead of holding all the weight of all the bouncing around and it should give a few inches of lift as a bonus.

Has anyone here ever done this? Is this something that sounds easier than it is going to be? Also... since this would widen my wheel stance considerably then I thought UTV?
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