A different way to lock the rear end.

I have thought about a way to lock my rear end a little more reliable than just welding it up. I would just weld it with the locker block setup, but I wouldn't bet a $180 transaxle against my welding. I have heard to much about spicers, I'm stuck with one, and my idea would be cheaper to build. If my key way goes all the way to the cass. I could get four gears and four hubs to weld them to. Go ahead and weld them together, then slid two of them on my axles. Mount two pills bock bearings on the frame in front of the trans with a shaft to go in them. With the other two gears on the shaft I could run a motorcycle chain to each side. Therefore, with the axles connected to the jack shaft by a chain on each axle it would prevent one tire from spinning without the other spinning. The idea by my figuring, that it is cheaper to build all of that then it would be to replace a transaxle and it is reversible. But my question for doc and the other more experienced members is; would the trans hold up, would it be practical, and do you think it will work. I am running 22x11-8 ATV tires from tractor supply on a open diff spicer from 1998. If it helps, I have a late 90's craftsman Lt 1000 with the 19.5hp opposed twin and I am using the factory front pulley and a 3 inch on the trans. Any ways, I hope I gave enough info to everyone to help come up with a conclusion.

The Doc locker is better and cheaper. In my book anyways.

I think that at the end of the day, the tranny is likely to be every bit as stressed as if you welded it. Incidentally- what you're describing is a methos somoe people employ to LIFT their machines.

Are you saying leave the wheels bolted onto the transaxle and just chain both sides to a shaft? That wouldn't be a bad idea I think. I always thought of putting the wheels on a separate shaft chain driven from the transaxle stubs, which is what doc is talking about I think. I think if you were going to go through the trouble of making an external shaft and leaving the wheels more or less where they are, you should try to make it selectable. Something that you can slide on the shaft or something to either lock or unlock it. Then you could just lock it in when you need it. Besides being cool, you would normally be able to turn easy and maybe save some wear and tear on things a bit since mostly it would be unlocked. I don't see how it wouldn't work ok if you made it rugged enough. I would think #40 chain would handle it.

Interesting. Keep thinking.

Ive heard a few ideas like that. Id be concerned with maybe sticks getting swrapped around the shaft. If you covered everything it should be all good, and kept the bearings lubed good so it doesnt create too much drag.

rarbaugh07 wrote:

The Doc locker is better and cheaper. In my book anyways.

By looking at your profile picture I would say that you are the guy on youtube with the build that used a driveshaft and independent suspension on the trany. If so I would love to do what you did with mine. It would come in handy when I'm down in the creek on some rocks. If I remember right it was called off lawn mudd mower or something like that.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

I think that at the end of the day, the tranny is likely to be every bit as stressed as if you welded it. Incidentally- what you're describing is a methos somoe people employ to LIFT their machines.

I figured it would be just as stressed, but what I was worried about was my welding turning out bad and some of it coming of in the trany while under a lot of stress since I go over rocks bigger than my front tire.

mr.modified wrote:

Are you saying leave the wheels bolted onto the transaxle and just chain both sides to a shaft? That wouldn't be a bad idea I think. I always thought of putting the wheels on a separate shaft chain driven from the transaxle stubs, which is what doc is talking about I think. I think if you were going to go through the trouble of making an external shaft and leaving the wheels more or less where they are, you should try to make it selectable. Something that you can slide on the shaft or something to either lock or unlock it. Then you could just lock it in when you need it. Besides being cool, you would normally be able to turn easy and maybe save some wear and tear on things a bit since mostly it would be unlocked. I don't see how it wouldn't work ok if you made it rugged enough. I would think #40 chain would handle it.

I have thought about selectable locker, but since I have a toolbox mounted to the mower I could just keep the chains in t till I need the locker. I was going to go with #41 chain since I have a mini bike that uses that so if one brakes down I would have the parts on hand to fix both. When ever I get another mower I will use it to be the all out build. Then use a solid axle with a peerless chain drive gearbox like bignickthegreat on youtube did with his go kart build.