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 Peerless 700 Overview Video

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Doc Sprocket
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PostSubject: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:54 pm



EDIT- Adding in part numbers-

Output Sprockets

Tooth count / Peerless Part #
7T                  786077
8T                  786047
10T                786076
12T                786095
15T                786111

Steel (non-sintered) bevel gear       778154
Steel (non-sintered) input pinion      778153

Shift keys            792089A
Bushings   780105A
Pinion oil seal               Peerless#788083, or Timken 340387
Input Shaft Bearings 780086A

Now- Another output sprocket option other than what's been mentioned- The Asuza go kart steering wheel hub fits the splines, and can be found here----> http://cometkartsales.com/Azusa-5-8-Splined-Steering-Hub.html A sprocket can be bolted or welded to it.

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MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...


Last edited by Doc Sprocket on Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:24 pm; edited 3 times in total
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mr.modified
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Mon Jan 12, 2015 8:31 pm

Well thanks, learned some junk I didn't know before. Pretty neat gear sets are the same from the transaxles.
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802 Customs
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Mon Jan 12, 2015 8:55 pm

You have a very good point on the fact that transaxles always blow up. I have a 700 kicking around, maybe I will do a live axle setup on a off roader. I was gonna use it as a transmission for a racer, but then I wouldn't have reverse. Its not a matter of if the reverse chain will blow, its when in high speed applications with these things. And when it does its gonna be nasty.
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Doc Sprocket
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:52 am

@802 Customs wrote:
Its not a matter of if the reverse chain will blow, its when in high speed applications with these things. And when it does its gonna be nasty.

You know... One thing I forgot to mention in the video with regards to reverse... Due to the design, the reverse chain and sprockets are ALWAYS spinning regardless of which gear has been selected. This is why failure is so possible.

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Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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Doc Sprocket
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 13, 2015 12:06 pm

Also- When I've had a chance to reload all my resources onto the new computer, I'll be posting up part numbers for OEM sprockets with varyìng tooth counts, as well as an appropriate aftermarket oil seal.

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Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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mr.modified
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 13, 2015 1:00 pm

That's what I was wondering about was where you get the oil seal from. I was going to delete the reverse on the one i'm going to use, but my reasoning was mostly to save the drag from pulling the chain through the oil/grease.
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802 Customs
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:32 pm

@Doc Sprocket wrote:
as well as an appropriate aftermarket oil seal.
Wouldn't a o ring with a id of 5/8 work just fine?
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:07 am

Typically, a double lip seal with an expander spring will outperform an o-ring.

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***Get YOUR official "Doc Locked, And Ready To Rock!" Stickers by clicking here!***
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Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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802 Customs
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:05 pm

@Doc Sprocket wrote:
Typically, a double lip seal with an expander spring will outperform an o-ring.
a regular oil seal right?
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Doc Sprocket
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:20 pm

***UPDATE-Note- useful part numbers added to original post***

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***Get YOUR official "Doc Locked, And Ready To Rock!" Stickers by clicking here!***
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Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:18 pm

Two Questions,
1, are theas bearings OIL-LITES? or something like that, where their infused with oil?
2, on the 700 that doc has with the OPEN sides of the shaft, is there a seal or is it just like to closed end ones?
I just bought on from my repair shop for $10, only because the input shaft and that part of the case ripped of, but i have an idea to use the good internals. and its a 5 speed. ill put up a vid later
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Doc Sprocket
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Fri Jan 16, 2015 6:28 pm

@mudman604 wrote:
Two Questions,
1, are theas bearings OIL-LITES? or something like that, where their infused with oil?
2, on the 700 that doc has with the OPEN sides of the shaft, is there a seal or is it just like to closed end ones?
I just bought on from my repair shop for $10, only because the input shaft and that part of the case ripped of, but i have an idea to use the good internals. and its a 5 speed. ill put up a vid later

Yes, they are oil-impregnated (OILITE) bushings.

No seal. When race prepping, you run sealant around the bushing to seal it to the case, and don't get too crazy putting way too much oil in. New, tighter bushings will help keep the oil under control too.

_______________________________________________
***Get YOUR official "Doc Locked, And Ready To Rock!" Stickers by clicking here!***
***Official Sprocket's Garage vinyl graphics and tees for sale HERE!***

Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Mon Jan 19, 2015 8:45 pm

Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

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***Get YOUR official "Doc Locked, And Ready To Rock!" Stickers by clicking here!***
***Official Sprocket's Garage vinyl graphics and tees for sale HERE!***

Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:14 pm

@Doc Sprocket wrote:
Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

Ive heard that steel bushings are the cause to screamin transaxles or 700s. the bronze dont do that, or at least are quieter. True?
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:15 am

@Doc Sprocket wrote:
Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

woah, can't believe they used steel as bushing to a steel shaft.

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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 20, 2015 7:14 am

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:


Ive heard that steel bushings are the cause to screamin transaxles or 700s. the bronze dont do that, or at least are quieter. True?

Sounds reasonable to me.

@Thunderdivine wrote:
woah, can't believe they used steel as bushing to a steel shaft.

Ridiculous, huh?

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***Get YOUR official "Doc Locked, And Ready To Rock!" Stickers by clicking here!***
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Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!-Doc "Tranny Crusher" Sprocket, ATLTF Forum Admin, Thinkerer and Tinkerer, and all-around good dood. Wink

Gen. Mayhem- http://www.atltf.com/t2597-general-mayhem-race-tractor
MULE- http://www.atltf.com/t2153-lawn-boy-utltv
MULEII- http://www.atltf.com/t3328-1970-john-deere-112-the-beginnings-of-mule-ii
MULEIII http://www.atltf.com/t4263-mule3-brainstorming-ideas-etc#58287
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat...
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:23 am

@Doc Sprocket wrote:
Further info:

I finally got around to cleaning out the old 3-speed shown in the video. Got it all apart, and the bushings looked rather.... non-bronze-ish. Grabbed a magnet. Steel.

Watch out for that folks. I don't much like the idea of steel bushings. The bronze are oil-impregnated, and a bit softer. They will wear, and spare the shaft. If a bit of crud gets in there, it's likely to embed in the bushing, and not mangle the shaft. Steel on steel is a lousy idea.

I'm going to change them out. I'd strongly suggest you do, too. How to tell- bronze oilite bushings have a gold colour to them, and a magnet will not stick to them.

my mst uses those steel bushings on the shaft which drives the diff gear, and they are a special size so you can't change them.
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PostSubject: Re: Peerless 700 Overview Video   Tue Jul 21, 2015 11:01 am

Got a seal for mine from napa. SKF #6105 just in case somewhere is having a tough time finding the Timken or peerless numbers for some reason, there's another one to use. I pressed it in and put the shaft in so I can verify it's correct.
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