Ford Wheeler "Ford 100"

Creepycrawler wrote:

have you tried the aluminum brazing rod from harbor frieght? it actually works pretty good once you get the hang of it, but it is really hard to get used to using, you cant melt the rod onto the work, you have to get the work hot enough to melt the rod.

rod? dose it screw on the tip of my mig or somthing? also there is not a harbor fraight any were near me(40+mi), tractor supply is my local hardware store.

Rod is for a stick welder (arc welder)

Brazing is not done with a welder at all though, it's done by melting the brazing rods with a torch. Sorta like soldering.

Oh ok then I misunderstood, thanks allis!

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

Oh ok then I misunderstood, thanks allis!

guess i need to buy a toruch at some point, will map gas get hot enough to braze?

A MAP torch would melt the aluminum brazing rod. A MAP torch will barely melt a regular brass brazing rod onto steel sheet metal, and would be best to get the smallest diameter brazing rod possible so it will melt easier. To melt the brazing rods would be like soldering where you heat up the part till the brazing rod melts onto the part by rubbing the part with the rod. If you melt just the brazing rod and let it drip onto the part then it would just clump up and not stick to the part.

We used that aluminum brazing rod at work on aluminum water pumps because we had to move a bracket hole. Preheating the part in a oven at 700 degrees was a must for our part because it was a big hunk of aluminum, then used the aluminum brazing rod with a MAP torch heating the part the rest of the way to melt the aluminum brazing rod into the hole. Worked great. Was able to redrill and thread the hole on a CNC along with polishing and chrome plating the parts to where you couldn't even tell it was done.

I would think it would be kinda hard on aluminum body panels. Use the MAP torch and heat the area with big circles to bring the area up to temp, then focus on the spot to be brazed. The hard part would be the warping of the sheet metal being heated. Maybe would be possible if you can control the warping from the heat, large flat areas are the worst.

so like soldering will my brazed spot be stronger than the material it self?

any solution for making the transmission pully bigger on a 2300? i found some one who can weld aluminum, so hopefully before its snowing i can have the ford willer driving agin.

You mean bigger in diameter? May I ask how come?

The 2300 pulley can be swapped.  Why bigger?  It will slow down the tractor.

Well IDK why you'd want to go bigger, but if it's like my 2300 there's a millimeter of room between the pulley and the axle, so I don't see how.

i want to make the pulles bigger on both ends, my only 2 drives with the kohler command showed that when the bet system was submeged i could only use 1'st and 2nd gear, the motor cold of easly kept up with third, dont know about 4th.

i do not find that belt slip acceptable, i shold never have to shift down becase of my drive system.

but i dont know were i can get pulles like whats on that transmission, becase of that can shape they have and the pully's v-trail is much closer to the frame than the shaft comming out of the tranny

I had to do a lot of hand fitting to make a special key, and I had a weld on hub shortened on a lathe to perform a pulley swap on the uni drive in Ol Red.  Similar situation because the v groove is very close to the trans housing.

What are your pulley diameters now?  Any way you could stiffen your clutch spring?  Maybe you could hook your heel on the clutch pedal and pull it back when your in this situation.

i have plenty of tension, its decently hard to push the clutch in. maby i shold take my welder and runn a bead along the walls of the V-pully then grind it back abit, so it wont destroy the belt to quicly, but it dont be a shinny chrome smove surface like it is now. back when dinky was 4"-4" pully i had to do stuff like that all the time for underwater/mud grip

im having 2 running tractors over the winter, 1 way or another.

I would definitely bolt the old computer case on so you could remove it if you had to.

You definitely need to get that transmission back together before you lose all the parts!

so question, i want to repl;ace the pads on my drum break thing, i have new frictiopn material, do i just slap some JB weld on it to hold it to the clamp or what?

ok, i did what i said, but the fritction matrial was so hard to bend it stareded folding in places, so i actully tryed installing it with wet jebweld under it (that got messy) it was really really hard to get on, but now i got vice grips turbo smashing the clamp shut. but now i got a big problem.

with the break adjust nuts all the way out it makes the brake ingage at the half way point of the cluch moving. my belt is currently so tight that the cluch cant be moved out any more past half way. over time the belt wold strech and i wold be fine, but im alittle lost on what to do now. maby i shold temporarily replace the cluch pully with a smaller flat ideler i got laying around.

is there a way to get holes in metal without drilling? drilling sucks, and it takes forever!

Well, angle grinder will get you a large square hole. Plasma cutter or blow torch would do it too, but I doubt you have those.

sharpen your drill bits, sharp bits go right through normal metal. I bought a index of bits from harbor frieght, they went dull real fast but I just started sharpening before i use em

alot of my drill bits have never been used. drilling still sucks with a new bit. 5min to drill a hole is really quick. 25min is slow. to punch a hole threw angle iron takes me 10-15min with a new bit.

also, next weekend im taking my breaks off and using my angle grinder to thin out the pad. either that or im making a seprate break pedal. witch i want to save somthing that big for build off time next year.

hmmm how much thicker is the new friction material compared to the old material?  I think you should build a seperate brake pedal anyway.  You'll love it.

That trunk under the seat is amazing.  I'm totally jealous.

That motor sounded great when you were revving it with your gas pedal.

If I had to guess I'd say you're using too much rpm and not enough down pressure when drilling.  When I drill by hand in steel I use a lot of downforce that my arm hurts afterwards but it doesn't take me to 25 minutes to drill a hole.  This isn't stainless here.  I usually have one hand on the back of the drill applying downforce and the other on the trigger.  I'm usually pulling the trigger about half way in high gear on a cordless drill for the average hole in steel(1/8-3/8 diameter).  It takes practice to find the sweet spot but you can make nice long chips that come out of the flutes of the drill like on a drill press even when using a hand drill.

well my drill is a 20 year old 18v colrdless running off of a car jumper pack or a lawn tractor battery. there is not much speed, and if i push down to hard it just stopps. i ueasly got what im working with on the ground. then i neal over using my chest to push down on the drill.