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 MUT: Murray Utility Tractor

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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Wed Nov 07, 2018 7:56 pm

Well, so much for the clutch pedal. Just snapped my last 3/16" end mill. I'll have to order more and wait now..... Mad
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Wed Nov 07, 2018 7:58 pm

@Crazy_Carl wrote:
The foot thottle is really great for shifting on the fly.  I don't know if you'll really need that.  A dual throttle done right can be really complicated but judging from the amazing work on the brakes I know you can handle it.  That toolbox was a great find.  Reminds me of the ones on my Dad's diesel compact tractors.

I'm actually toying with a shifter idea.

Basically, move the shifter from the center panel to the LH fender area and have a clutch lever on the shifter. Somewhat similar to Murray's older "shift on the go" system....
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Crazy_Carl
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:57 am

It makes ergonomic sense to me to put the clutch right on the shifter. However, have you ever tried operating your clutch with your hand? Not so easy as using the foot. It takes some force to stretch that clutch spring.
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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:40 pm

@Crazy_Carl wrote:
It makes ergonomic  sense to me to put the clutch right on the shifter.  However, have you ever tried operating your clutch with your hand?  Not so easy as using the foot.  It takes some force to stretch that clutch spring.

With the deck and bucket/plow/snowblower/3point controls, there’s too  much stuff on the right already. I could get it in there, but it would be awful crowded and near inpossible to shift from forward to reverse while manipulating the impliment controls.

No worries on the clutch control. I’ve built both mechanical and hydraulic hand clutches for harleys and race bike clutches. That little spring under the deck is not a problem.

On the right only makes ergonomic sense because we’re in a “lh drive” environment. Anywhere there’s rh drive vehicles, you shift with your left hand. I’ve spent a lot of time in the UK and am used to it. Driving out of the UK and into other parts of Europe has you switching back and forth to/from LH/RH drive on the road. Makes no difference to me anymore...Wink


Last edited by TourMax on Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:47 pm

Well.

The LH wheel hub is proving to be at least TWICE the SOB the RH hub was to get off.

Been a couple days of trying now and almost out of tricks. Heat, pressure, impact, etc. Nada. Not even a fraction of a MM.

Last resort will be to pull the transaxle, remove the axle shaft and use the 20 ton press to remove the hub.

One last trick before I have to go down that rabbit hole: I drilled two 1/8" holes opposite each other through the hub. One goes to the key stock, the other goes to the shaft opposite the key stock. Into both holes went a generous soaking of penetrating oil.

Hopefully this allows it to loosen up the rusty death-grip both components have on each other. If not, out the transaxle comes....... Rolling Eyes

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SebastianAlbrecht
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:56 pm

I would pull the 820 and rebuild it (Gear Oil instead of grease, new seals, maybe Doc Locking it) so you can be sure, your 820 will work well the next 205 years. Dor that, you also need to pull it, so you can remove the rust-welded hub then too.
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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 7:50 pm

Alrightythen, I'm officially PO'd with this thing!

SOB just broke a high quality 3 jaw puller. The same puller that broke the RH side loose.

I'm about to hang up trying to do the LH side brakes for a while.

I'm not pulling the 820 until the new shift shaft I ordered came in. It will get new keys at the same time and It goes back together with fresh Bentonite grease. It was designed for the Bentonite, so it gets Bentonite.

I'm now thinking I'm just going to move on to paint and finish. I need a little success here to keep me motivated. I can do the LH brake when I get around to pulling the transaxle.
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MightyRaze
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:09 pm

The bentonite should be fine for your purpose.  You are not trying to go super fast like many of us that need the oil conversion to not burn our stuff up.

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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Sat Nov 10, 2018 7:34 am

Well, everyone is welcome to run whatever lubricant they want in thier gear.

I have no desire to start a “bentonite vs XX oil” discussion, but I disagree with gear oil in a box designed to run bentonite.

But like I said; everyone is free to run whatever lubricant they want. My dog’s not in that fight....

My transaxle will be rebuilt to a slightly different standard than most anyways. All the gears will be patterned for engagement, shimmed as required and a general “blueprinting” all around. Pattern and shim are especially important on straight cut gears like these. I suspect they will be fine “as is”, having already lasted 28-odd years is what is arguably one of the harshest environments you can toss a piece of equipment into (ie: homeowner maintenance = serious neglect).  

I’d like to do a backlash to make sure they don’t get into a heat/bind situ, but it seems tecumseh doesn't have specs for that to start with. Probably due to the lower level of QA given to such a “built to a price point” piece. Which is yet another reason why it’s getting a bentonite refill.

Smile
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Crazy_Carl
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Sun Nov 11, 2018 9:37 pm

I really had to "cook" my LH hub on Ol' Red with an oxy acetylene torch.  I was so happy went it started to move.


bentonite grease really is a great lubricant for your application.
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TourMax
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PostSubject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor   Mon Nov 12, 2018 5:23 pm

AH HA HA HA HA HA!






Take that you motherf.......umm, well, you know what I was going to say.

I tried everything over the last 4 days. Lube, heat, force. I even drilled access holes in the hub, parafin wax, etc. You name it, i tried it.

I finally resorted to heat again. Heat has fixed everything I've ever come up against, I couldn't believe it wasn't going to work this time.

Then I cut off the spacer between the hub and case. It gets discarded anyways when I put the disc carrier on so it was expendable. With access to the back of the hub now, I was able to drive the axle key back and forth with a punch (more times than I could count!) until it finally came loose enough and I could remove it from the axle.

Once the key was out I had reduced the total surface area enough that heat and the puller were able to move the hub. Once it started, i was able to keep it moving until it finally came free.

Turns out the shaft inside the hub had corroded so badly it had “sloughed off” a layer of metal. Then corrosion got behind that as well. I love my province, but have always hated the way the environment here attacks steel so aggressively. After 28 years in the Maritime climate, the hub and axle had become enough of an “interference fit” there was no way it was going to come apart with normal means. Getting that key out gave me just enough reduction in friction that heat, oil and pressure was enough to get it to move. Even then, it still wasn't easy to get off. It required just as much force every time it popped and moved its fraction of an inch. In fact, it was so tight it sounded like a gunshot every time it moved. So much so that my neighbor came over to make sure everything was alright. Lol!

But now its off, and that's all that matters. Now I can get on with building the rest of the Lh brake system.

Of course, I had started another project when it looked like I was going to have to give up on the tractor:





Needs bearing and seal replacements. Had the same issue with that axle and double sprocket I had with the tractor hub. That sprocket was NOT coming off, plus I had the added disadvantage of not being able to get a puller on it at all.  I ended up getting it off, but not before I “mushroomed” the shaft end. I had to rework the shaft end with it still in the argo in order to get the sprocket off once it started moving. The end of the shaft also runs in an inner bearing so I’ll have to chuck the shaft up in the lathe and turn it back to the proper dimensions before it all goes back together.

I can only hope the other sprockets aren’t as much a problem... yeah, right.

Lol!
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