trans axle to solid axle questions

when making a monster mower, using a straight solid axle and leaving the transaxle in the original place, do you use only one chain from the trans to axle or do you have sprockets on both sides? Do you lock the rear trans or do you leave it alone. Or do you bolt one side solid and let the other power your axle. Just want to know what is best and how. Thanks guys.

genegillis5 wrote:

when making a monster mower, using a straight solid axle and leaving the transaxle in the original place, do you use only one chain from the trans to axle or do you have sprockets on both sides? Do you lock the rear trans or do you leave it alone. Or do you bolt one side solid and let the other power your axle. Just want to know what is best and how. Thanks guys.

If you have a transaxle its hard to make a lifted mower like how you are describing. Most lifted mowers use a Foote? transmission with a sprocket on it. If you dont understand what I am saying check out FearlessFronts lifted mud mower videos, he is using what I am taking about.

Ok, thanks I'll look. I didn't know that.

You could use a transaxle for a lifted mower by spacing the transaxle off the body (say like a 6" lift), extending the input shaft on the transaxle that 6" by using a handmade extension, and using a greasable pillow block bearing to support it.

Using a sprocket and live axle is the easiest and cleanest out of your available options since you dont need to modify all of your linkages.

i think hes talking about putting a lift block under the transaxle, then some bearings, an axle in those bearings with hubs, brakes, etc. and a chain from the transaxle axles down to the new axles and cut the ends of the transaxles axles off.
if thats what your talking about id say run 2 chains because it wont wear out the left/right side of the transaxle more then the other side plus its probably better on it too.

This is what im actually talking about

W1ldyOvvnZ wrote:

i think hes talking about putting a lift block under the transaxle, then some bearings, an axle in those bearings with hubs, brakes, etc. and a chain from the transaxle axles down to the new axles and cut the ends of the transaxles axles off.
if thats what your talking about id say run 2 chains because it wont wear out the left/right side of the transaxle more then the other side plus its probably better on it too.

I know what he was talking about. I just think finding a trnasmission that is preset to do it might be easier since you may run into clearance issues using a transaxle.

Yea! that illustration is what I was talking about. I just thought thats how it was done. I was under the impression that a foote trans was only a brand name like peerles. Now I know. If it could be done as we were talking about , one could use a smaller sprocket on the ends of the trans axle and one a little larger on the axle below it and relieve some strain off the transaxle. The brakes would also be easy to hook up. If two chains were used would you need to lock the rear transaxle? Wonder if this has been done by anyone on the forum?
Thanks guys!

genegillis5 wrote:

Yea! that illustration is what I was talking about. I just thought thats how it was done. I was under the impression that a foote trans was only a brand name like peerles. Now I know. If it could be done as we were talking about , one could use a smaller sprocket on the ends of the trans axle and one a little larger on the axle below it and relieve some strain off the transaxle. The brakes would also be easy to hook up. If two chains were used would you need to lock the rear transaxle? Wonder if this has been done by anyone on the forum?
Thanks guys!

The only problem with doing it like that is you would have the extra axle sticking out after your sprockets, not to mention the sprockets would be anywhere between 2-5" off from the sides of the body sides and exposed. And because of that your rear axle bar would need to be longer and the rear end would be wider. Im not bashing it, it can be done, but you might have some cosmetic issues.

You would more than likely need to lock it if you are running one solid rear bar. Youre going from something with a differential to something without one.

You can do it the way your saying you want to.

There's a lot of ways to lift your mower. maybe this forum can help

http://www.xtrememowermayhem.com/apps/photos/

Thanks, yes thats it! would any one know if it was necessary to lock the transaxle , using the 2 sprockets . But ya know bolting the transaxle low and running the shaft thru the bearings does look easier to build< but you still have the brakes to worry about. I am going to build one, just trying to do it the best way. I hate to see the transaxle pop soon as I want to ride it.

genegillis5 wrote:

Thanks, yes thats it! would any one know if it was necessary to lock the transaxle , using the 2 sprockets . But ya know bolting the transaxle low and running the shaft thru the bearings does look easier to build< but you still have the brakes to worry about. I am going to build one, just trying to do it the best way. I hate to see the transaxle pop soon as I want to ride it.

you dont need to lock the rear end because the second axle acts as a locker. if you were going to do brakes on what Doug is talking about you can setup brakes on the input shaft extension peice, it would do the same but you would wear the brakes/belt out real quick if you dont push the clutch in first.

matthew sidor wrote:

You can do it the way your saying you want to.

i was looking for that, i knew you posted it somewhere on the forum before:P

W1ldyOvvnZ wrote:

genegillis5 wrote:

Thanks, yes thats it! would any one know if it was necessary to lock the transaxle , using the 2 sprockets . But ya know bolting the transaxle low and running the shaft thru the bearings does look easier to build< but you still have the brakes to worry about. I am going to build one, just trying to do it the best way. I hate to see the transaxle pop soon as I want to ride it.

you dont need to lock the rear end because the second axle acts as a locker. if you were going to do brakes on what Doug is talking about you can setup brakes on the input shaft extension peice, it would do the same but you would wear the brakes/belt out real quick if you dont push the clutch in first.

If you do it like the above picture you can leave one axle longer and use a go-kart rotor system hooked up to an independent pedal. Or you could put it on the live shaft, either way it doesnt need to be on the input. Getting it on the live shaft would be easier with hydraulic brakes, the transaxle with mechanical.

Thanks guys, I guess having everyones thoughts combined in one place is what makes the forum so great. Seeing all the different ways to do something and then useing that knowlededge combined with our own will save me a lot of mistakes. You guys and your thoughts are great. I purchased a craftsman today and will be starting me a build . I thank you all.

Be sure to post up pics!