| | Removing Governer Slinger | |
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+4TroyBilt Pony T-Dub13 1997 Murray WilliesBuilds 8 posters | Author | Message |
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WilliesBuilds Member
Age : 28 Join date : 2013-06-19 Points : 4525 Posts : 329 Location : Florida
| Subject: Removing Governer Slinger January 21st 2014, 10:08 am | |
| I had question if i remove the governer completly inside and out what is gona splash the oil around inside. Ive just Always wondered that ? i Guess its a simple question lol | |
| | | 1997 Murray Veteran Member
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| | | | WilliesBuilds Member
Age : 28 Join date : 2013-06-19 Points : 4525 Posts : 329 Location : Florida
| | | | T-Dub13 Established Member
Age : 54 Join date : 2013-12-06 Points : 4528 Posts : 540 Location : Central MA
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 21st 2014, 12:22 pm | |
| Don't eliminate the slinger, just the weights and metal cap. Pull the pins and eliminate the weights, then pop the little metal cap off. The plastic wheel should remain on the shaft. I also sawed off the little lever "paddle" on the end of the Gov shaft, but left the shaft in the block in case I wanted to use it as a pivot point on the outside of the block.
Last edited by T-Dub13 on January 21st 2014, 12:34 pm; edited 2 times in total | |
| | | WilliesBuilds Member
Age : 28 Join date : 2013-06-19 Points : 4525 Posts : 329 Location : Florida
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 21st 2014, 12:26 pm | |
| yeah thats what i thought it makes wayyy moree sense to just eliminate the metal parts just wanted to verify with the forum | |
| | | TroyBilt Pony Established Member
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| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 21st 2014, 1:17 pm | |
| I cut the governor shaft, remove it, install a screw with my loctite/gasket maker solution, Then rev her out | |
| | | WilliesBuilds Member
Age : 28 Join date : 2013-06-19 Points : 4525 Posts : 329 Location : Florida
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 21st 2014, 3:19 pm | |
| sounds awesome mines almost done just waiting for the seals to come in snail mail lol | |
| | | rarbaugh07 Member
Age : 36 Join date : 2014-01-22 Points : 4033 Posts : 117 Location : Logan, iowa
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 24th 2014, 4:31 pm | |
| Has anyone blown an engine because of high revs without the governor? I've only seen them blow because of bad/low. | |
| | | rarbaugh07 Member
Age : 36 Join date : 2014-01-22 Points : 4033 Posts : 117 Location : Logan, iowa
| | | | Doc Sprocket Site VIP
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Age : 51 Join date : 2013-04-21 Points : 7274 Posts : 2914 Location : Ontario Canada
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 24th 2014, 4:34 pm | |
| - T-Dub13 wrote:
- Don't eliminate the slinger, just the weights and metal cap.
Pull the pins and eliminate the weights, then pop the little metal cap off. The plastic wheel should remain on the shaft.
Precisely. | |
| | | T-Dub13 Established Member
Age : 54 Join date : 2013-12-06 Points : 4528 Posts : 540 Location : Central MA
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 24th 2014, 4:41 pm | |
| Well..... That's a tough question to answer. You may get a different answer from every member of the forum. The general consensus is that these motors will experience valve float (which will limit RPMs) before they get spinning fast enough to blow up. That being said, they have cast aluminum rods and dogbones so there is some variablilty in manufacturing and who knows, you may be the owner of the weakest rod to come off of the assembly line. It's out there, so someone has it, or it already broke. I snapped a dogbone on a 100% stock grass cutting mower last summer. No reason it should have broke at 3600RPMs, but it did. So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO. | |
| | | B440 Member
Join date : 2014-01-22 Points : 4160 Posts : 226 Location : Thompson, CT
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 3:01 pm | |
| - T-Dub13 wrote:
So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO. Where did you buy the upgraded rod and dogbone? | |
| | | TroyBilt Pony Established Member
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| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 3:14 pm | |
| - B440 wrote:
- T-Dub13 wrote:
So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO.
Where did you buy the upgraded rod and dogbone? You can buy them at ARCracing, eccarburetor, and other small businesses. http://www.arcracing.com/servlet/StoreFronthttps://eccarburetors.com/webstore/I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down. | |
| | | Doc Sprocket Site VIP
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Age : 51 Join date : 2013-04-21 Points : 7274 Posts : 2914 Location : Ontario Canada
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 4:14 pm | |
| - TroyBilt Pony wrote:
I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down. I wanna see this. | |
| | | TroyBilt Pony Established Member
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| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 4:58 pm | |
| - Doc Sprocket wrote:
- TroyBilt Pony wrote:
I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down. I wanna see this. What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock. Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes. When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next. | |
| | | Thunderdivine Veteran Member
Join date : 2012-12-21 Points : 6499 Posts : 2101 Location : Norway, Europe
| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 6:01 pm | |
| - TroyBilt Pony wrote:
- Doc Sprocket wrote:
- TroyBilt Pony wrote:
I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down. I wanna see this. What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock.
Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes. When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next. Pics or it never happened | |
| | | TroyBilt Pony Established Member
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| Subject: Re: Removing Governer Slinger January 25th 2014, 6:39 pm | |
| - Thunderdivine wrote:
- TroyBilt Pony wrote:
- Doc Sprocket wrote:
- TroyBilt Pony wrote:
I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down. I wanna see this. What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock.
Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes. When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next. Pics or it never happened ugh.. not this bs lol This is the only pic i have.... Heres the engine tho.. Just wait until i get a pic of my tach when its turning 7000+ | |
| | | T-Dub13 Established Member
Age : 54 Join date : 2013-12-06 Points : 4528 Posts : 540 Location : Central MA
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