Redline's 1971 Ford F-100 Big Block swb

@willis923 wrote:

so? you never know when youre going to break down, (it IS a ford...) or have to block a road off, or.... just put the damn light on it.. either that or im taking it

Says the guy who bought a truck with a broken axle....   
my pos ford>dodge

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

@willis923 wrote:

so? you never know when youre going to break down, (it IS a ford...) or have to block a road off, or.... just put the damn light on it.. either that or im taking it

Says the guy who bought a truck with a broken axle....   
my pos ford>dodge

oh just for the hell of it
my broke down, blown engine chevy> reds p.o.s. ford> willis's dodge> everyother truck on the site

imo you should make that 360 a 390.. it will make a night and day difference. I'm gonna put a 460 in mine if i hold onto it, that or a 12v

@TroyBilt Pony wrote:

imo you should make that 360 a 390.. it will make a night and day difference. I'm gonna put a 460 in mine if i hold onto it, that or a 12v

I was thinking about it, i actually went to a ford galixie that has a 390, and its locked up, so im not gunna mess with that rotating assembly.

Same with the 460 over here! Look at this artical, a 460 stroked to a 557! Racing heads, a cam, high rise intake and a 4bbl gets you around 900HP and 1,100HP on spray, count me in!

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1006_installing_557_demon_stroker_kit/

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

@TroyBilt Pony wrote:

imo you should make that 360 a 390.. it will make a night and day difference. I'm gonna put a 460 in mine if i hold onto it, that or a 12v

I was thinking about it, i actually went to a ford galixie that has a 390, and its locked up, so im not gunna mess with that rotating assembly.

Same with the 460 over here! Look at this artical, a 460 stroked to a 557! Racing heads, a cam, high rise intake and a 4bbl gets you around 900HP and 1,100HP on spray, count me in!

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1006_installing_557_demon_stroker_kit/

yeah thats bad ass, i only need some 40in super swampers or so, and about 600hp to be satisfied down the road lol check chat

Aw, check it out, someone bajaed a 71 F-100!

People love to baja old fords, they have I beam suspension that the racers love. Their sweet!

Nice truck, id do what theyre saying and make it a 390. I have an old 360 full of water behind my house. When it did run it was a good motor. Too bad its in the scrap pile along with its c6 tranny. Need money for other things and its just accumulating space.

@MurrayMayhem wrote:

Nice truck, id do what theyre saying and make it a 390. I have an old 360 full of water behind my house. When it did run it was a good motor. Too bad its in the scrap pile along with its c6 tranny. Need money for other things and its just accumulating space.

So far im going to stay 360. i have the oil pan off but i dont want to pull the bottom end apart. i think the engine was refreshed at one point from those yellow markings. Runs good, no bad wear or knocks... not gunna take something apart if it works really good. So, oh well. performance increase wouldn't be to dramatic too. You kinda need a performance cam/intake and carbs to compliment the increased compression, and im not budgeting that for this.

And, i got my licence today.

Update. Been busy on this and school, bleh. Joined fordification.com but they want me to upload photos to a host and then upload them to the forum. what a hassle. Havnt started a thread unless theres a easier way.

sub frame for cab removal, pain.



Vic suspension almost done, just gotta box the frame.


Box off.


Rusty!


Spending a lot of time with the grinder, 16ga sheet, and the hobart mig. Floor pan got cut out.



And traded my 6.0 gm motor for 18" v6 mustang GT rims. Mmmmmm. Cousin works at a high end auto detailing shop.


And IRS is in the future

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

And IRS is in the future  

yes I'm sure the irs will get you, you tax dodger!

@Moose wrote:

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

And IRS is in the future  

yes I'm sure the irs will get you, you tax dodger!

No, the good kine!

You had mentioned gas mileage of fe engines. Dads truck, 1966 f250, two wheel drive, 4 speed, 352 engine, got 8. Also, he drove that truck from 1970 to 2002. 32 years, his only truck.

my 460 gets 0.08, I got you beat!

















(accually it is 9.5, but I had to do something)

@Stretch44875 wrote:

You had mentioned gas mileage of fe  engines.  Dads truck, 1966 f250, two wheel drive, 4 speed, 352 engine, got 8.  Also, he drove that truck from 1970 to 2002.  32 years, his only truck.

They drink. Only real complaint of these trucks. I bought it knowing this. And im gearing it the best i can to help get in the teens. FE's are nice, cheap, torquey engines, that not many people seem to know about.

Where are you going to get the independent rear setup from/off of?

@mr.modified wrote:

Where are you going to get the independent rear setup from/off of?

Options are:

1989-1999 thunder bird/cougars
1992-1999 Lincoln mark viii's
1999-2004 mustang svt cobras.

I contacted a guy and going to look at a thunderbird irs complete minus coils and brakes. Has  2.73's and a locker.

Thunderbirds/cougars have 7.5" or 8.8" center housings. Both 28 spline cv axles. Lincoln's have 8.8's.

The svt's are the best, all aluminum arms/housing ( 8.8 ) locker, bigger brakes, and beefy 31 spline axles.

Buying can get after market 28 spline shafts good for 650+ and I'll be lucky if my engine puts out half that.

Almost one year bump on this thread. Figured id update.

Thunderbird Super Soupe 8.8 IRS. 28 spline, trac lok, 2:73s


Lincoln Mark 8 aluminum diff/control arms. 3:73s.


4:10s from a explorer 8.8. Complete rear end rebuild, and thanks to 98svtcobra Carbon fiber trac lok clutch packs!


IRS mounting material (still laying in the garage )


New engine and trans from a lincoln mark 8. 4.6 32v DOHC, 96K miles, 4r70w (overdrive yee), and complete wiring harness with it.



Cab just needs new cab mounts welded in but need the cab on straight so i dont weld them on wrong.


Rolled it all inside.


Swooped in and got parts from a junkyard truck that showed up.



Motor mounts bolted on (from a 03 vic and up-bolts right to any mod motor basically) and the engine just laying in there. frame needs plating and rear trans mount made.

Awesome man! looks like you are getting closer.

Just read through this whole thread. Looks mint! Any further progress?

Took it to the s c r a p y a r d .

looks like the build is coming along great, and i just read through it all, i shouldve been on this forum earlier this is a lot that ive been missing out on!

Yea, trans crossmember, irs is mocked up, bought headers, and mufflers.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=77392

Nice just read through that whole thread on fordification. Can't wait to see her when shes finished!

Hay Kid,
Coming along nicely. So switching from the original motor to the 32v 4.6 with fuel injection, WOW, major change there, I think those motors are rated at 400hp stock. Curios on how you are going to seal the bottom of the cab? I sure can tell you what doesn't work, LOL. I did the same thing to my jeep on cleaning and prepping. Believe it or not, my jeep was solid and little rust when I got it. Did all the body work also. Now 15 years later it all rusted out, but then again it's a daily driver even in the winter time. I did my wife's car also when she got it almost 10 years ago, using a different method on rust proofing. Here car is holding up pretty good. I usually run my vehicles till I can't and are ready for the scrap yard. I hauled away 2 cars to the scrap yard in my jeep by cutting them up, LOL.

Well anywho... On my jeep after I prepped I used roofing tar over the paint, didn't work too good. Then I tried that spray on bed liner from a rattle can, that crap don't work too good. At that point I'm cutting out the floor for fresh metal and used the paint on bed liner, didn't work too good either. So I sand blasted the metal, that sucked, and used the paint on bed liner on the raw metal. The sand blasting gave it something to grab good, worked longer then I expected but it rusted through and came off. My wife's car on the other hand, is still solid underneath with the coating still on. On her car, I kept it simple since it was rust free when she got it. I used an SOS pad to clean the underneath, the the paint on bed liner. No rust holes or spots on the floor pans with rust. I'm thinking that a real good primer/sealer will do the trick with the enamel paint, then the paint on bed liner. I'll be doing that to my next jeep I build up. It's the gold one in my tank vids, that will replace my current one. I'm thinking an epoxy marine paint for the primer or maybe an aircraft epoxy paint. Well hope it helps.

@prancstaman wrote:

Hay Kid,
Coming along nicely. So switching from the original motor to the 32v 4.6 with fuel injection, WOW, major change there, I think those motors are rated at 400hp stock. Curios on how you are going to seal the bottom of the cab? I sure can tell you what doesn't work, LOL. I did the same thing to my jeep on cleaning and prepping. Believe it or not, my jeep was solid and little rust when I got it. Did all the body work also. Now 15 years later it all rusted out, but then again it's a daily driver even in the winter time. I did my wife's car also when she got it almost 10 years ago, using a different method on rust proofing. Here car is holding up pretty good. I usually run my vehicles till I can't and are ready for the scrap yard. I hauled away 2 cars to the scrap yard in my jeep by cutting them up, LOL.

Well anywho... On my jeep after I prepped I used roofing tar over the paint, didn't work too good. Then I tried that spray on bed liner from a rattle can, that crap don't work too good. At that point I'm cutting out the floor for fresh metal and used the paint on bed liner, didn't work too good either. So I sand blasted the metal, that sucked, and used the paint on bed liner on the raw metal. The sand blasting gave it something to grab good, worked longer then I expected but it rusted through and came off. My wife's car on the other hand, is still solid underneath with the coating still on. On her car, I kept it simple since it was rust free when she got it. I used an SOS pad to clean the underneath, the the paint on bed liner. No rust holes or spots on the floor pans with rust. I'm thinking that a real good primer/sealer will do the trick with the enamel paint, then the paint on bed liner. I'll be doing that to my next jeep I build up. It's the gold one in my tank vids, that will replace my current one. I'm thinking an epoxy marine paint for the primer or maybe an aircraft epoxy paint. Well hope it helps.

Rated at 280hp, looking for 300hp. Using 3m seam sealer. then bedline firewall/under the cab and under the bed and innerfenders.