The Millennium Falcon

Spacer should work of it's that close.

That's a pain. Did you pump the brakes up and everything? Extra room once the pads wear in a little. Well, not the caliper on the front wheels maybe, I'm guessing they don't move.

Ordered a set of 1 1/2" spacers, should be here sometime next week. But for now, I finally have a passenger seat! It's ugly af and doesn't match at all, but hey, it's a seat and it fits. Good enough for now.



Started on replacing bushings. I don't have a press at home so the ones that don't pop out easy get burned out.



More prepwork on the block.



At first I was just going to run the stock exhaust manifold because it already had an O2 bung in it but the thing is pretty damn heavy and isn't very good on looks either. Long tube to the rescue! Picked this up for free off a friend and I'm going to take it to school tomorrow and weld in a bung and just clean it up a bit. I might paint it white like the rest of the engine but I'm not sure yet. Also not sure weather or not I'm going to run it open or weld up a little bit of pipe to make it dump just past the front tire.

Gettin stuff done. O2 bung is welded on so I threw the head back on the engine real quick to see what the header will look like. Damn, I can't wait to hear this thing run.



Started painting too, coming along nicely.

So when I bought this paint I was under the assumption that this was just ordinary spray and let dry style paint. Nah. This is header coating that needs baked to fully cure. Oh well, just gonna have to find something else for the block because I'm pretty sure that it won't fit in my oven as easy as this did.

Inline engine problems

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Inline engine problems

Try shoving a LS block in your oven and see how that works out lol. My mom would KILL me if I suggested putting a engine block in her oven.

Woo, more parts!



Including the most important part of em all, the spacers. Getting them apart was a bit difficult, quality tool probs. All of my sockets, even the non impact ones, were too thick walled to fit in the hole. Thankfully I have neighbors that buy cheap tools.



Lookin decent.



Little bit of poke now, but at least they clear the calipers

Needs more camber, tire basically running the fender lip, and obnoxious cursive stickers on the windshield to become apart of the stance crowd.

Haven't updated this thread in a while. Finished up the head work and also threw in a Isky stage II (.480"/280/232) that I got from a friend.











I also picked up a new intake manifold. Here's the old one.



And here's the new one. Lot less vacuum crap to block off, no EGR and a slightly larger TB.



And my last trick for this post...



Boom. Looking good.

The motor looks clean, and glad to see you at posting in the thread again.

how did you bake the paint on the block

@N1ck wrote:

how did you bake the paint on the block

I switched to a different paint that doesn't require it. Originally I was using VHT header paint which was more of a matte ceramic coating that was very porus and wasn't going to work well in an underhood environment. Makes me wonder why they even sell it in white. What I'm using now is a glossy enamel so it'll be a lot easier to clean before shows.

Ok I was wondering

@WellThatsSurprising wrote:

Originally I was using VHT header paint which was more of a matte ceramic coating that was very porus and wasn't going to work well in an underhood environment. Makes me wonder why they even sell it in white.

That's for when your restoring your 1960's-70's dirt race car. Almost everyone painted the headers white back then. An a few orange...

Doot.

I see parts!!!!

@Ariens YT11 wrote:

I see parts!!!!

Parts? What parts? I only order from RockAuto for their top tier bubble wrap. Very satisfying.

Alright, real update now. Yay, parts!



Boo, wrong parts.  The clutch slave cylinder they sent me was for the T5 that the turbo model had, even though I specified NA. Oh well, $3 part, don't care. What pissed me off that the tensioner on the timing kit was machined off so I had to order a whole new kit.



But hey, new kit fit right!



The rest went together nicely.



Also found out why the temp sensor was giving off odd readings. It was 100% correct, there just wasn't a thermostat in this thermostat housing. Good thing I ordered one anyways.



As long as I can find some flywheel bolts this engine should be back in the car tomorrow. Then starts the fun part, wiring.

I dont want to jump ahead, but you said this was a standby motor till you can build a RB? What power are you expecting from the inline you're building now? Stock transmission?

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I dont want to jump ahead, but you said this was a standby motor till you can build a RB? What power are you expecting from the inline you're building now? Stock transmission?

Correct. This engine should put out somewhere around 175/200 when finished. Stock 5 speed from the donor car, should handle it just fine. RB numbers are going to be in the 450-500 range but I want to get the chassis sorted first.

450-500 naturally aspirated? What's the displacement on these things?

@mr.modified wrote:

450-500 naturally aspirated? What's the displacement on these things?

Nonono, the RB is turbo. As for displacement, Nissan engine codes are super simple. First set of letters is the engine family like the L series or the RB series. Then the numbers that come after that are the displacement in deciliters. This is a L28e so it's a 2.8L, the RB25det is 2.5L and so on. Finally, letters after it are features. E is EFI, d is DOHC, t is turbo, you get the idea.

Oh ok. So I guess you can still run that on pump gas without an issue?

@mr.modified wrote:

Oh ok. So I guess you can still run that on pump gas without an issue?

Oh, easily. 93 Octane is pretty widespread available up here so I should have no problems