I’m planning the (simple) wiring on the Rat Rod build and have some questions. I plan to use the OEM key switch and add an emergency kill switch (with the red slap cover), a light switch that will allow running off of the AC side of the alternator or from the battery, and remove the ‘safety’ switches.
This is my proposed electrical diagram, stolen from the LT1000 manual and edited.
So, let’s start with the emergency kill switch. I think I have it so the engine won’t start without setting the switch. From then on the engine should start. Turning off the key or slapping the emergency switch will ground the coil and stop the engine. I think...
Second, on the left side I have a DPDT switch shown. (The symbol isn’t standard, but this switch is center off, on to each side) I believe I have it so that if the switch is set to mag, the lights will run off the alternator. Arrg, I didn’t mean mag on the drawing, read ALT please. If the switch is off, the lights won’t work at all and if it is at Battery, the lights will run off of the battery. In the mag (ALT) setting the key switch works as normal. I think...
That leads to the third question; can I put a diode in the AC (lights) wire from the alternator and get DC so I can run LED lights?
And the last question... REGULATOR? This tractor does not have a regulator, none in the diagram or on the machine. Can/should I add one? The critter I am building is a go kart that will have head/tail/brake lights. Sure seems like a regulator should be part of the circuit. If I need one, where do I get such a tiny regulator?
I decided to build the harness in ‘comfort’ and set up a work surface on a table in the yard, in the shade. Of course, the WIND decided to blow but I managed to finish the harness without any injuries or too many curse words.
Welcome to the outdoor electrical test bench:
I’ve had that Harbor Freight meter for years. It has been a good one. Only today did I notice that it has a continuity test function with sound. Of course my ears don’t hear the sound unless I hold it up to my head, but the meter also tells me if there is connection. (I used this meter to monitor my heat treating furnace... actually an old small ceramic kiln... using the heat sensor function. Pretty good little tool for less than 20 bucks)
And the finished, simplified harness. Right now the silly two position switch for lights/battery function isn’t there and the solenoid connection for the carb is still there... until I neuter the carb. Idiots are annoying. Safety switches to protect me from me. Sigh...