LawnBoy UTLTV aka MULE

Cool. I just posted on my FB for anyone who's got a spent one I can have for a project. I'll report back if anything happens....

good luck

I agree with Willis. I spent six years in the fire suppression biz, and my duties included sales and service of fire extinguishers. The "disposable" ones aren't much use at all. Further notes:

The majority of commercially available extinguishers are now constructed of aluminum. They tend to look better, but can't be welded by your average DIY-er.

Also- don't be fooled by the threads in the neck where the valve assembly screws on. They are straight threads, not NPT pipe threads.

I am likely to be making a new muffler soon using the same design elements as my Cherry Bomb, so I'll do fresh pics when I do it. If I'm feeling ambitious, I might even shoot video. I have not yet decided if I will use another C02 cylinder like the first one (from a fire suppression system), I may use a small 2lb fire extinguisher, or I may use a disposable propane cylinder. Dunno yet.

Anything new or something happen with the 'ol girl?

No work on it. But I do use it once or twice a week. Debating selling it, actually.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

No work on it. But I do use it once or twice a week. Debating selling it, actually.

Yea, trade it in, seems like you could cash out for some of your other projects

Well, we'll see. Wont be for some time. I would want to have another built before losing this one.

T-Dub13 wrote:

Well, I'm struggling with finding a can that looks as cool as the one Doc has.  The Cherry Bomb is the coolest thing I've seen in a long time!  I also want it to be as light as possible.  These are made of aluminum and have pipe fittings....  If I can find a couple spent ones, I'm going to try it!

Im in the process of making one gona pack it and everything

Doc Sprocket wrote:

I agree with Willis. I spent six years in the fire suppression biz, and my duties included sales and service of fire extinguishers. The "disposable" ones aren't much use at all. Further notes:

The majority of commercially available extinguishers are now constructed of aluminum. They tend to look better, but can't be welded by your average DIY-er.

Also- don't be fooled by the threads in the neck where the valve assembly screws on. They are straight threads, not NPT pipe threads.

I am likely to be making a new muffler soon using the same design elements as my Cherry Bomb, so I'll do fresh pics when I do it. If I'm feeling ambitious, I might even shoot video. I have not yet decided if I will use another C02 cylinder like the first one (from a fire suppression system), I may use a small 2lb fire extinguisher, or I may use a disposable propane cylinder. Dunno yet.

I was afraid of that when i got my "NOS" tank so i brought a magnet with me, when i bought them to make sure they were steel.

I wouldn't sell it if I were you. I actually put my murray on craigslist half way through building it because I had lost interest in it but now that its done I'm so glad I took the ad down.

u want some more to play with?

So... Last week I tore the rearend out. I was having a shifting problem related to the cold. When it got down below freezing, It was refusing to shift into the higher forward gears until it warmed up some. This was done by idling for several minutes in neutral, or by driving a few minutes in a lower gear.

Since warming it up helped, I figured the problem out- the oil was so thick at the low temps, the shift keys would not spring out and engage the gears. When I built the tranny, I had used some 90wt oil that I had...

So, last week I tore it down, drained the oil, and inspected. No mechanical issues to be found, looked like my sticky oil theory was correct. Last night, I loaded it up with ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and left it overnight for the RTV sealant to cure up.

Today, I instaled the tranny and took it for a toss. So far, so good! Shifts perfectly now. The true test will be after it gets effing cold again. Meanwhile... I had a Browning graphic that my wife bought for me, so I applied it to the hood!

Looks good doc. The tranny fluid will help with BOTH extremes of temp.

Thank Lawren. Yeah- after closer scrutiny of bearing and gear clearances (and the chain) I think I feel a lot more comfortable with a thinner lube. Since I had a couple quarts of unneeded ATF on hand, in it went.

I ran a 3.5 hp mower for 5 years with atf... Mowing in the summer, southern Illinois, 100+ temps, the oil tended to burn.... I was mowing 7-8 yards in quick succession. I tried the atf, and no more burned oil residue on the valves and piston skirts

In...the...CRANKCASE?   

Yup, in the crankcase.... If you think about it, all hydraulic motors/tranny's are lubed with it

Many are, yes. But an engine sees different conditions than hydro motors/pumps, gearboxes, etc. That said, I find your results very interesting. I sure would like to inspect an engine, try running the ATF for a long enough time period, end re-inspect. VERY interesting.

My cousin paul and I made our money in our teen years this way. We tore our engines down every year for maintenance. Paul ran 10w30. His pistons came out brown/black on the top and sides. Mine were clean as new. I didn't notice any excessive wear, rods didn't knock indicating bearing wear. The only ral prob I had was leaking... the ATF wouldn't make the sludge seals that usually make up for small leaks... I had to use high temp rtv for the gaskets.

Learn something every day, in this case: 2 things! I've been having problems with the Peerless 920 in my Murray. Been in there 3 times so-far, but took it fora ride today and it skipped in reverse only just a little but. I never thought about the sludge that's in there. I think I'll thin it out with ATF and see if that helps because it's not the chain.

I'm pretty intrigued with the ATF in the lawnmower story! I guess it would burn cleaner. ATF will degrade polyurethane seals, but rubber seals will be fine.

I was kindaa hoping the 80w I got would be ok at lower temps lol

Actually, what i used was about a 70/30 mix of 75w90 and 80w140, or whatever it was. It's what I had on hand.

I got 3 quarts of 85w-140 hoping it works out ok

I should have added a caveat that I don't necessarily suggest using atf for crankcase lubricant, just that I have done so with no ill effects. In geared tranny's, yes it will act as a penetrating oil to loosen up the sludge. It has a higher vapor and flash point than dino oils and most synthetics, and a lower freeze point. It has a lower viscosity than most engine oils, but it holds that viscosity better under extremes of heat and cold. It isn't as good at friction abatement as carbon based oils, but it works pretty well.