Awhile back, I picked up a 1980 Sears LT1136 for a good price. It ran, but not well. I spent 10 minutes on the carb, and it ran like a dream. What to do with it? I was going to clean it up and flip it for a profit, but I decided I liked it. Looked like this when I got it:
After some thought, I decided to build a budget racer, with the following two criteria: 1)Must pass race tech. I needed a challenge. Anybody can do an engine swap and call it a racer (I have a couple bike engines I was thinking about) but I wanted this thing legit. 2)Cheap- I got a family to feed, which comes before hobbies and fun. This wouldn't be a high-dollar NASCAR type thing, more of a DIY thunder car thing.
I downloaded a rule set from a local organization and got into it. After a couple of false starts, I ended up stripping it down and throwing most of it away. Rule number one: You want to build a racer? There's no point starting with a good, running machine. I think I kept the frame, dash, hood, and running boards. Everything else is gone.
I stripped it all down, degreased it, and reinforced the chassis and dash with 1" square tube. I bought somebody else's crappy racer chassis-thing for cheap, because it had an 18hp Briggs Oppy that I wanted:
The thing was NASTY. But it had a good running engine, and some parts that would find their way onto various projects. Again- this pile of scrap is NOT my machine! Ecch...
I also acquired a Peerless 700 (more on that later) and a bunch of other goodies. Now, I haven't touched this in awhile, but here's a video overview of basically how it sits. The only thing I did AFTER the video (till yesterday) is finalize the steering including new rod and drag link, and new rod ends.
Specs look like this: *18hp Briggs Oppy Twin Peerless 700 4-speed 1 1/4" Chromoly hollow go kart axle 16x7.50-8 Carlisle MultiTrac CS on Douglas 8x8 Aluminum Jr Dragster rear wheels 13x6.50-6 Carlisle Turf Masters on Douglas 6x6 Aluminum go kart fronts Aluminum kart front hubs with high speed bearings Aluminum go kart steering wheel Hand throttle Tethered kill switch Modified rear fender unit from some old Bolens GT Modified fibreglass race car seat Rear brake master cylinder, reservoir, caliper and hose from 1983 Honda Interceptor 750 Motorcycle Rear brake rotor modified pitbike slotted and adapted to kart axle And probably more that I've already forgotten.
Most of it is still in mockup. The welds have not been burnt in (just tacked), and I still have a hell of a lot to do to it.
One thing I don't like about the second gen oppy twins is the fixed-main jet carb. I drill my own jets all the time, but if I can get a pre-EPA adjustable main jet carb, why not? So... A buddy of mine on my go kart forum had an old beaten carb off a first generation twin, and a full rebuild kit to go with it, so I bought it.
I spent yesterday cleaning that carb so you could eat off it. I had the parts from 3 carbs scattered all over the bench- that old one, the one that came on my engine, and a spare. I chose the best parts from all of them. Painted it up all purdy-like, and fully rebuilt it, including the fuel pump. New gaskets, seals, diaphragms, springs, jet needles, float valve... You name it! I also cleaned and painted my flywheel (makes it easier to find the parts (LMAO) and spent hourse degreasing the engine block. I have to go out today, hoping to paint the block when I get back.
The block will be flat black, the tinwork will be OD green. Why? Military theme. This IS General Mayhem! The whole thing will be OD green and black! Pics when I get home... Or maybe a couple now. note- second pic, background left. Say hello to my dog, Tikka!
Looking good, same frame as my LT10. Grille is a little different, but I haven't seen another LT with the same grille as mine.
What are you doing for a front axle? Going to sanction race it? Keeping the stock steering box?
Didn't watch the video, didja? LOL. No. Direct steer, all fabbed, heim joints. Front axle fabbed from 2x2" square, knuckles made from 5/16" plate. Still don't know if I will race it in "club" events as the closest club is 3 hours away. However- I will be running a few races in the local fall agricultural fair circuit. Exhibition races, as it were.
k2500life wrote:
That's pretty sweet are those stripes factory?
Heck no. I bought the tractor from a friend's father in law, my friend did the crappy paint job. Looks like hell in person. The whole thing will have fresh paint when I'm done. In fact, I'm painting the engine now...
You have very good fab skills haha I like the look of everything. Not to get sidetracked but how old is the video? MULE in the background doesn't look modified.
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Thanks- and you're right. the video is several months old. I hit some stumbling blocks in the build and then got sidetracked by life and other projects. So, I shot the video, a bit of time passed, did the steering up, and it sat up until a few days ago. Then, I got reinspired. Went to see some tractor racing a few days ago, and dug the General outta mothballs.
I was out today, and picked up a couple pulleys...
Thanks- and you're right. the video is several months old. I hit some stumbling blocks in the build and then got sidetracked by life and other projects. So, I shot the video, a bit of time passed, did the steering up, and it sat up until a few days ago. Then, I got reinspired. Went to see some tractor racing a few days ago, and dug the General outta mothballs.
I was out today, and picked up a couple pulleys...
I see a buggy back there too with a motorcycle vtwin in it. you have a lot of projects.
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Thanks- and you're right. the video is several months old. I hit some stumbling blocks in the build and then got sidetracked by life and other projects. So, I shot the video, a bit of time passed, did the steering up, and it sat up until a few days ago. Then, I got reinspired. Went to see some tractor racing a few days ago, and dug the General outta mothballs.
I was out today, and picked up a couple pulleys...
I see a buggy back there too with a motorcycle vtwin in it. you have a lot of projects.
Yup. That was my old go kart. It's in peices right now till I figure out what I want to do to it, if anything at all.
Nope. There's already a pretty long run between the carb and the intake ports. Longer would only hurt. Meanwhile, keep in mind that a classis "highrise" manifold is designed for a square-bore, 4-bbl carb- and it's purpose is to divert carb output equally amongst 2 banks of cylinders by keeping the 2 paths completely divided (2 levels).
Nope. There's already a pretty long run between the carb and the intake ports. Longer would only hurt. Meanwhile, keep in mind that a classis "highrise" manifold is designed for a square-bore, 4-bbl carb- and it's purpose is to divert carb output equally amongst 2 banks of cylinders by keeping the 2 paths completely divided (2 levels).
Meanwhile, been painting. Got dark, had to stop.
....What?
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Nope. There's already a pretty long run between the carb and the intake ports. Longer would only hurt. Meanwhile, keep in mind that a classis "highrise" manifold is designed for a square-bore, 4-bbl carb- and it's purpose is to divert carb output equally amongst 2 banks of cylinders by keeping the 2 paths completely divided (2 levels).
Nope. There's already a pretty long run between the carb and the intake ports Longer would only hurt. Meanwhile, keep in mind that a classis "highrise" manifold is designed for a square-bore, 4-bbl carb- and it's purpose is to divert carb output equally amongst 2 banks of cylinders by keeping the 2 paths completely divided (2 levels)..
Meanwhile, been painting. Got dark, had to stop.
....What?
What, what?
" Longer would only hurt. Meanwhile, keep in mind that a classis "highrise" manifold is designed for a square-bore, 4-bbl carb- and it's purpose is to divert carb output equally amongst 2 banks of cylinders by keeping the 2 paths completely divided (2 levels)"...What?
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What we have here, is a failure to communicate. Twice you quoted me, and wrote "what?". I know what I wrote. What I don't know, is what your question or concern actually is.
What we have here, is a failure to communicate. Twice you quoted me, and wrote "what?". I know what I wrote. What I don't know, is what your question or concern actually is.
Sorry about that, you'd think working in the H.R. department at work would fix this. I couldn't comprehend what you were actually saying.
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What we have here, is a failure to communicate. Twice you quoted me, and wrote "what?". I know what I wrote. What I don't know, is what your question or concern actually is.
Sorry about that, you'd think working in the H.R. department at work would fix this. I couldn't comprehend what you were actually saying.
Meh- don't worry about it, it happens. That's one of the liabilities of text-based communication- sometimes it's just dead difficult to convey a thought, or comprehend someone else's.
I was hoping to make some progress on the General today, but I doubt it's going to happen. I picked up a couple of pulleys the other day, but my body (mine, not the Generals) has decided to be uncooperative...
Made a bit more progress. I bought a couple pulleys and hubs to suit. (FWIW, 7" engine pulley and 1" weld-on hub, and 5 1/2" tranny pulley and 5/8" weld-on hub). Zapped them together and put 'em on.
I honestly can't remember which machine or deck this double-pulley clutch came off, but it's perfect for the job. V-pulley on one side, Idler on the other. It might have come from the MULE's original cutting deck.
After screwing around with the clutch location for awhile, I found what seemed a good place. Drilled a hole and installed a long bolt for it to pivot on. It's a bit tight in there- I have moved the engine back several inches from stock, and the transmission is further forward than I think I would prefer. Plus, I have the steering column, pitman arm, and drag link in the vicinity.
With the clutch in place and a spring to supply some tension, a grabbed an old belt, one that was too long. I cut the belt so I could overlap it. Fed it through all the pulleys and zip-tied it to itself at the right length.
After making sure I was sure (LOL) I put a single ziptie on one belt and took the whole thing off. With it off, I ziptied it back together again and put the belt on this handy-@ss belt gauge I picked up at a yard sale for $2. (belt on gauge for photo only, that's not the right size). Now that I know exactly which belt I need, I can go pick one up. Next, I have to make up some belt guides, and rig the clutch pedal and linkage.
You bet your belt it is!!! No guesswork- measure and go. No buying 3 or 4 and returning the wrong ones. I stopped at this sale one day and spotted it in a corner. I asked, and the guy wasn't even clear what it was. He asked for $2, and I whipped out the cash so fast my wallet smoked!