Sarge offroad/mud mower

truckin42 wrote:

Yeah i will have somthing like 20" of clearance when i put the bigger tires on front and cut the deck hanger of the axle.
Right now i have like 10" from the grond to the axle ill have to measure it to be sure.

i did some messurements again and ill have 16" 1/2 i the front with lift kit and in the rear front the bottom on the transaxle ill have 12" with new tires a the foot boards it will be 27" total i dont wanna have a monster mower just wanna make it where i can get thru my creek trails with out bottoming out

well here are some updates

had to get the front up on the ramps


i had to remove the mounts and drill new wholes



this is the best $20 drill ive ever used LOL


this is how you tell that you have enough lift

is when you can see to the other side


and the final product 2ft of lift


and some photoshoots my little cuz with my sister mudqueen

Looks like you've got some decent articulation now! Get some grease onto those axle plates- you can see a lot of wear on them.

its looking good. i like how much flex it has

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Looks like you've got some decent articulation now! Get some grease onto those axle plates- you can see a lot of wear on them.

that is the front plate that looks worn its mostly surface i plan on getting some grease zerks to put on that axle plate so i can grease it but the center bushing is pretty much done for so im thinking its time to do what stretch done to his mowers make your own front axle lol

mudmonkey06 wrote:

its looking good. i like how much flex it has

thanx yea i still gotta get my new 820 stuffed in there along with some 24" mud tires i was gonna get some 26" mud tires but dont have the $$$$

Jay_Rod wrote:

mudmonkey06 wrote:

its looking good. i like how much flex it has

thanx yea i still gotta get my new 820 stuffed in there along with some 24" mud tires i was gonna get some 26" mud tires but dont have the $$$$

I was gonna go with 25in kenda bear claws for my mower but didt have the cash so i did car tires.
What type are the tires?

Jay_Rod wrote:

mudmonkey06 wrote:

its looking good. i like how much flex it has

thanx yea i still gotta get my new 820 stuffed in there along with some 24" mud tires i was gonna get some 26" mud tires but dont have the $$$$

I was gonna go with 25in kenda bear claws for my mower but didt have the cash so i did car tires.
What type are the tires?

truckin42 wrote:

Jay_Rod wrote:

mudmonkey06 wrote:

its looking good. i like how much flex it has

thanx yea i still gotta get my new 820 stuffed in there along with some 24" mud tires i was gonna get some 26" mud tires but dont have the $$$$

I was gonna go with 25in kenda bear claws for my mower but didt have the cash so i did car tires.
What type are the tires?

there duro sand and mud tires

ill do the shock thing like you did soon. Take a pic of the side, I want to see how this thing sits. Is do more flex but the front tires on mine would hit everything

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

ill do the shock thing like you did soon. Take a pic of the side, I want to see how this thing sits. Is do more flex but the front tires on mine would hit everything

ill try to get pics as soon as i can

I know with my v-twin there is no way i can do shocks i want to but just dont have the room.

truckin42 wrote:

I know with my v-twin there is no way i can do shocks i want to but just dont have the room.

yea i know how ya feel i wanted to do a smog pump supercharger but i cant because my frame is to small the air box on my oppy is 3" from the front of my grill

Jay_Rod wrote:

truckin42 wrote:

I know with my v-twin there is no way i can do shocks i want to but just dont have the room.

yea i know how ya feel i wanted to do a smog pump supercharger but i cant because my frame is to small the air box on my oppy is 3" from the front of my grill

Well, there *may* be a solution to that... What about remote mounting it say... back by the differential and using radiator hose to bring the output back up to the intake? the pulley can be an idler/tensioner for the drive system too...

ok here is a better view of my shocks and how i mounted them i just welded a bolt to the front axle on both ends and made 2 shock towers o of 1" tube steel the middle piece is 1/2" tube steel



and i didnt like how my muffler tips where sticking out so much so that got fixxed
BEFORE



AFTER

Looks good i like the dual exhaust.

I like your front tires. I'd like some for my craftsman but can't afford any.

Also i was thinkin you should build a full engine cage for that.

truckin42 wrote:

Also i was thinkin you should build a full engine cage for that.

why would i do that lol??? theres no need for it i dont see me flipping again unless im drunk (might happen)

picked up this 1998 ford f-250 smogpump for $5 it made 7psi when the engine was reved to 4200rpm and thats the max i run my opposed twin so it does make boost ima changed the pulley so i can run a normal v-belt what would be a good pulley setup to run? it will be ran off the flywheel and its not really big so i can find a spot for it somewhere

Jay_Rod wrote:

picked up this 1998 ford f-250 smogpump for $5 it made 7psi when the engine was reved to 4200rpm and thats the max i run my opposed twin so it does make boost ima changed the pulley so i can run a normal v-belt what would be a good pulley setup to run? it will be ran off the flywheel and its not really big so i can find a spot for it somewhere

Nice score! Well, the deal is you actually have to consider engine load just to spin it. Try to keep the ratio similar to what it'd be on the engine it came from, if not a little under driven. That way at lower RPM it doesnt drag the motor down much. Keep the pulley engine side similar in size to the crank pulley on the engine it came off of. Eh, IIRC a ford 400 crank pulley has 3 grooves (3 belts I mean) and is about right.

yea i might run a 3 on the motor and 4 on the smog pump so ill be pushing 5-6 psi i hope

This oughta be interesting! What modifications do you plan to make to the engine to deal with the air boost?

Id set it up so it hits 6-7 psi around 3500, because then you can keep that boost pressure in the higher rpm's when the engine is consuming more.

Jay_Rod wrote:

truckin42 wrote:

Also i was thinkin you should build a full engine cage for that.

why would i do that lol??? theres no need for it i dont see me flipping again unless im drunk (might happen)

True and it would make it even more tighter in the engine bay.

I like the idea of a smog pump for turbo.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

This oughta be interesting! What modifications do you plan to make to the engine to deal with the air boost?

when i rebuilt my carb i started to think about the smog pump supercharger idea well while i had the carb apart i did a few internal mods bigger jets so it does run rich right now as idle and a little bit rich at max throttle so this should fix it going lean with 6psi running thru the engine nd the reason for my stock heads insted of my shaved ones is the compression if i keep the shaved heads i would of blew the head gasket in less then a hour thats why im running stock heads but i did have the engine ported and polished a few weeks ago i had a pro look at it and he told me 40hp is what im pushing with these mods if i added a turbo and got billet rods and a flywheel i could push 50+hp but he recommended the smogpump idea because i already have a bigger cam in the engine and i might run a small heater core for a intercooler (since im going with the smogpump he sees my HP being around 45-47HP depending on the boost 47hp at 8psi 45 at 5psi)