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 Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info

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redlinemotorsportts
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PostSubject: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 1:23 am

Here to "document" this swap and douse the internet with some info in a grey area. For a few years ive ran a briggs opposed in my offroad mower, i know its not the lightest, or most powerful, or most fuel efficent, or blah blah blah, im aware. Its just what ive ran- had good luck at it too.

ANYWAYS, its no secret im a nut about these engines. Ive been in search for the "holy grail" -the pressure lube opposed. Finally- ive gotten my hands on this design in the salvage yard. What do i do now? see if i can shove all that junk into my other rare briggs, a big bore 46ci opposed ive ported and polished.

Anyways, heres the longblock i picked up. Unknown year 16hp from a ford hydro.
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With the base off you can see what ive seen in one manual online-the pickup screen, the pump thats powered by the bottom of the cam (notch in hollow cam) and the tubes that run oil to and from oil filter housing. You can also see crankshaft journal port for oil to flow up into the crank itself.
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Lower crank journal oil hole.
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So oil gets sent up thru the hollow cam, all the way to the top cam race, where it dumps out into a small tube thats drilled in the block, and travels inside the block to the top crank journal.

You can barley make out the small hole inn the race.
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The factory drills a long 3" or so hole in the block, nicking the top of the cam race causing the small hole. After they drill the plug it.
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So the top hole lines up with the crank hole or "dip" you see. that travels within the crank to the rods. Top crank journal hole feeds top rod, and bottom crank journal hole feeds the bottom rod.
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Bottom crank hole & rod oil holes.
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So, the oil travels within the crank to the rod journals. This is where the rod picks it up, travels within the rod and to the wrist pin. Hole in rod around wrist pin is for the oil to escape.
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Entire pressure lube engine apart.
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Now, taking my 46 apart. For those who remember i used high temp RTV for headgaskets. I ran it for 5 hours or so romping in PA. Turns out i laid it thin or deck was not smooth and really blew it out on the high cyl. The bottom cyl had a small blow out spot. Ran good too! Could this contribute to a "tick" that i was hearing from compression leaking? I think it is. Lots of carbon everywhere too. Not sure why. Maybe carb way off. Flash rust on valves.

Top cyl, three blowouts.
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Bottom, cant really see it.
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Still have to pull rotating assembly out of the 46ci. Oil block mods to come, ill update when i get there.
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crafsmankiller
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 2:58 pm

Lucky mother.. I've been trying for a long time to find a pressure lube opposed, literally no where around my oarts . what's you plan for it?
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mr.modified
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 5:35 pm

Carbon build up that fast is a bit strange. Is it pretty dry or oily?
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redlinemotorsportts
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 7:07 pm

crafsmankiller wrote:
Lucky mother.. I've been trying for a long time to find a pressure lube opposed, literally no where around my oarts . what's you plan for it?
Read up, I tell you! lol

And yea pretty dry.
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 10:55 pm

Carb was running way rich. The pic of the top cyl. with the head off, the rust was from moisture in air, no big deal, or burning oil and water in oil, no big deal either. The piston on the other hand, that's where the knocking was coming from, see the imprint of carbon from the cyl head on the piston, that piston was too close to start with because you can see the combustion chamber imprint from carbon on the piston. I can tell the piston was hitting the head from the clean spots on the piston, it hitting kept the carbon of the piston.
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redlinemotorsportts
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 26th 2015, 11:55 pm

The intake and exhaust ports wernt covered that's why it's got rust. But I don't think the piston was hitting. I think it was just close enough that maybe heat or whatever made the carbon not stick. It was close but they can't hit. Piston flush with the deck, and the head isn't flush with the head. I think the tick is the head gasket leaking causing a tick like a exhaust leak. That's what it sounds like anyways
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Moose
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitimeDecember 27th 2015, 1:20 pm

Almost picked up a John Deere with a pressure lube opposed but it had a deck and I didn't have the room :/
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PostSubject: Re: Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info   Entire Opposed Pressure lube Internals Swap & Info Icon_minitime

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