This is the start of turning this beat up old hydro into a lifted mud mower i have started on weight reduction it's about 120 lb lighter "that's including the deck" I want to possibly add front suspension,headlights,engine,seat,wiring,back tire's,paint,bumper and other accessories,
Finally got around to getting the project back into gear so here i am reentering. As for plans go for this time around im still hopping up the engine same as before, but now ill be keeping the transaxles and am going to turn the frame into a willow-lock swivel frame. Also around August/September i plan to start finalizing it with custom body panels (fenders, footrests, and hood) and red and black pain job. At the time of posting I'm in the process of changing the dash to the older square style as i plan to give the mower a more vintage look with a square (custom) hood that will most likely look like the sears gt 16 hood with round lights and a grill. Other fun tidbits I have planed I wont quite tell yet but you'll be able to see them when i post them
Hi everyone. I’m new here but have been following the forum as a guest for a bit. A few months back a neighbor stopped by my house and offered me his mower that was sitting behind his house for a few years. I just had to get it before the next snowstorm buried it again. Five minutes later it was on the forks of my tractor and heading home.
Here’s my plans. I want to use it around the yard to pull a cart, wagon for the littles, and my post hole digger. I’d like to have fun in the snow and be able to swap the front between tires and snowmobile skis.
Get it running Rewire (it’s a total mess) Bigger tires. Re-gear for a bit more speed Cheap seat Lock up the transaxle??? Paint? Hand brake? Modify and upgrade as stuff breaks
I’m not sure where the build will take me but I figured entering it here will keep me motivated.
I am building a c81 wheel horse, putting a 670cc with original transmission, but welded diff. Will be uploading all the build videos as well to our YouTube channel/Mowers Gone WILD. I will update here often as well, glad to be part of the form and build off.
So this year me and my grandpa spent an hour brain storming the name dont say it out loud. So basically the tractor is half john deere half craftsman the good parts of a craftsman and good parts of a john deere. It started lifeas a john deere 111 i bought from my buddy it sat in the woods and rotted i scrapped the deck and we stuck the tractor in is barn half torn apart for a few months. I ave the original 8hp flathead motor which i will revive i might even stick it on it for the first motor. Its gonna get a locked diff a proper trans brake it has a separate brake pedal from the factory which is nice but im also gonna add a hand brake. Heres pictures of my deere light utility tactor.
Here’s my Broadmoor entry. I won’t do a huge write up for this one if you are going to merge it with my old thread. But let me know if I have to do anything else. Basically I almost have a rolling chassis. Frame is mostly done but the suspension needs to be finished. Still needs brakes, engine built, clutch, steering installed, fuel tank, battery, pretty much everything. Thanks.
Approved - Jan 15, 2023 MightyRaze
Previous Entry "HERE" and then continued in Build-Off [22] "HERE"
This is my project, flexible. It's a John Deere L130 that I'm completely reconfiguring. The hydrostatic transaxle is dead and I'm swapping in a live axle and a peerless 700 clone. I'm also sectioning all the bodywork, sinking the seat into the body pan, lengthening the wheelbase, reenforcing the frame and building an exhaust from scratch. I'm taking each part of this project as it's own whole project and trying to make everything exactly how I want it and as strong and reliable as possible.
My plan is to go through, modify, or completely replace every aspect with my own version of things. No part will be untouched and there's still tons to do. I'm also trying to make it look as stock as possible.
The end goal is a jack of all trades type of vehicle. I want to be able to go fast with reasonable handling, drift on dirt and wet pavement, launch hard in a straight line, wheel power line roads and off-road trails at the closest OHV park and be able to push and tow various disabled Toyota land cruisers at work.
The entry photo is the state of the project currently. These are some pictures of the build in various states over the last few months. Very first mock-up on tires.
Working on the steering knuckle. This is the kind of thing I'll be doing to every aspect. Strength, reliability and solid performance is the goal of every part down the last bolt.
Going through the transmission. I have an idea to be able to slam through gears under high load without any possibility of blowing the case up from selecting two gears at once if I convert to 3 speed, but I don't know yet.
Greetings! This here is project Anne Murray. (Best I could come up with, and figured she's canadian aswell, so it would work well!) It's a 1980 Murray gt16. 16hp opposed, that supposedly runs, and a pearless 2300 out back. I purchased this tractor in the fall of 22', mounted my ATV tires on it, and then life got in the way. It hasent been touched since (as you can see by the 3ft snowbank around it)
-Project description- Going for a good all around offroad build, something I can fly around at decent speeds, but when asked, can go around most obstacles, whether that be mud, rocks, gravel, or inclines. This build will feature - - Stock engine, ungoverned (have a backup engine if need be, 20hp intek v-twin) -peerless 2300 with a locker - pully swap, thinking of a 1-1 , this may change - full frame reinforcements - steering reinforcements + heim joints - steel bumpers, front and back. Possibly include a 3000LB winch on the front - Lighting (rock lights + front LED bar) - hand operated brakes (possible hydraulic) - foot throttle (of course!) - Custom exhaust to keep the operator awake! - skid plates - storage (ammo boxs) - full electrical rewire, to include tether (possible instrumentation aswell)
I'm sure other add ons will happen, thats how most of my projects go! I plan to drag it into the shop in a few weeks, as my other projects are nearing completion, and my garage is full of snowmobiles at the moment.
I have included a few photos aswell. Thanks everyone, and thanks to my girlfriend for making my pretty sign
Well, it looks like it's that time of year again for me to take another broken down old tractor and breathe some afterlife into it! I want it to be different from my others though...
What I'm thinking is...
So I'm going to take most of this "stuff" plus more "stuff" and turn it into a stripped down and dirty little race tractor!
The plan is to build it with flexibility in mind so I can tear it up on grass, dirt, ice or pavement, maybe even drag race and drift it! There's no racing clubs around here but I'm hoping to find a open class race or two to take it to and see what kind of trouble I can get myself in to! Lol.
I'm going to use USLMRA prepared chassis rules as a guidleline so it's close to being a legit racer and in case the opportunity to race ever arises it shouldn't take much to pass tech, from what I've read this MTD (tunnel) chassis is a very popular choice on the race track! Visually I want it to look tough and have a ThunderCar/Super Stock racecar flare and spirit!
Here's what I'm thinking:
~ Reinforce the tractor while keeping weight savings in mind. ~ Slam it to (or close to) the class limit of 4" from the frame to the ground. ~ A custom front axle and direct steering will be needed so I'll build them from scratch. ~ Lower the bodywork and seat. ~ No electronics aside from the ignition/kill - pull start only! ~ Build the original, single speed Peerless 910 (FNR) good and strong. ~ Get my 11hp Briggs and Stratton "KoolBore" figured out and running! ~ Shave weight wherever I can. ~ Give it a racecar appearance package! ~ Hit 35MPH!
*Plus More! *
This should be a blast to build and drive when it's done!
Approved - Jan 1, 2023 MightyRaze Withdrawn - July MR
This will be kind of a build as we go type build. I do know that it will be more of a trail/overland rig focusing on reliability and performing well on mixed surfaces and trails. As of now we will be keeping the original briggs 16hp oppy and peerless 801 transaxle unless something better comes around. That's about it for now!
What is the ATLTF Build-off? It is a fun competition for the members of ATLTF to modify a garden tractor, lawn tractor or riding mower into something a rough, tough, sexy machine in 11 months. Then the members get to vote for their favorite! We do have a base set of rules to keep the playing field level and fair for all the members of any skill set to have fun! Reminder, we have members 13 and older. We would like to keep it fun for all!
Read on to learn the rules and how to enter! **THE RULES HAVE UPDATED for 2023**
ATLTF 9th year Build-Off Competition Rules
- Qualifying Builds -
1.) Must be a small, personal-transportation type vehicle, capable of carrying operator, and not more than one additional passenger.
2.) Must be self-propelled.
3.) Must be powered by a small "OPE" (Outdoor Power Equipment) type engine. Generally:
One to two cylinders,
2 or 4 stroke,
Gasoline or diesel,
Air cooled; water cooled (some OPE's have water cooled engines)
Horizontal or vertical crankshaft
Derived from: lawn mowers, leaf blowers, lawn/yard/garden tractors, pressure washers, portable generators, tillers, cement mixers, weed-eaters, leaf mulchers/ vacuums, water/ trash pumps. *Additionally, more than one qualifying engine may be used. 2022 we did allow ATV style engines, but that was just a 2022 modification.
...3.1) Electric powered machines will be considered by-basis, so long it complies with all other rules.
4.) Framing requirements.
No automobile, truck, SUV, etc. chassis
No ATV chassis
No "Compact Tractor" chassis from larger homestead+ tractors allowed.
Passable examples are: Lawn tractor, yard tractor, garden tractor and mini chassis’, stock or modified. Custom-built chassis are allowed provided the end result will be resemblant of a lawn or garden tractor chassis. Specifically, ladder, tunnel, or pan-style. No space frames, or frames made primarily from tubing that are resemblant to go karts, rock crawlers/ bouncers, etc. (Tube skeletons for bracing and exoskeletons are permitted upon approval. Must "wrap" a portion of the tractor or strengthen the lawn tractor frame. Not replace a portion of the tractor.) Scabbing in framing parts of an ATV frame not allowed. Using parts such as suspension components is approved as long as it does not take away from the tractor frame/appearance. Example, welding the front of an ATV frame to a tractor frame is not allowed. Fabricating and attaching independent suspension from an atv is OK.
5.) Must run on any number of wheels, tracks, skis, or any combination of these, limited by the following constraint: A minimum of 3 points of contact must be made with the ground, a minimum of two if vehicle is "tracked". Points of contact are defined as wheels, tracks, or skis. Wheels cannot be configured in an inline pattern similar to a "cycle".
6.) Sheet-metal and bodywork is open; however, the end result MUST be resemblant of a tractor in some aspect. Micro-cars, cycles, rock crawlers/ bouncers, space bodies, etc. are not permitted.
7.) Must be "complete" by deadline date. The purpose of this rule is not only to define completeness for the contest, but to help ensure safety. Paint and related aesthetic touches are not mandatory to qualify as "complete" but may affect voting. For clarification, "Remote" specifically means "The ability to operate without touching engine". For our purposes, "complete" means:
Starts,
Runs
Drives under its own power.
Throttle must be installed and operable remotely (without operator touching engine).
Kill switch must be installed and operable without operator touching engine.
Engine must start with a switch of some type or be pull-start.
Braking system must be installed and functional.
Steering system must be installed and functional.
8.) Must NOT be more than 75% completed prior to the official start date. Previously entered builds can be used as long as 25% or more work from the previous competition is needed. (These builds will be closely monitored) NEW BUILDS ARE WELCOME TOO! Lightly modified builds for the contest will not qualify. As part of qualification, contest entrants will post a picture of the major parts source(s), including a physical sign showing the commencement date and password. Completeness will be defined by your write-up of what is to be done and by seeing your parts in photos. Didn't get far in a previous build-off, reenter if you still got some work to do! While 25% can be subjective, please be more than just a repaint or assembly. This is 25% modifications needed. We'd like to see you put some build effort into it!
9.) Entry must be built by the entrant. A team of more than one can enter and build a machine. Those instances, the team would have to share or split any potential winnings should they win. No contracting "hiring out" parts of the entry to be "built" by someone else. It is OK, to purchase "over the counter parts" for your entry.
Entries and finalized builds are screened by the administration and we reserve the right to decline entries/ finalized builds if we feel they are not observant or compliant to the rules as stated above.
- Competition Details -
The Build-Off commences January 1st. You may NOT start building until the official start announcement on that date, but you MAY plan and collect parts until that time. The official start announcement will contain a PASSWORD. Entrants MUST start a build thread in the [Build-Off Entries] forum and post a photo of their main parts pile that contains a physical sign bearing "ATLTF 2023 Build-Off", your username, the date, and the password for the build-off in the same photo. The sign can be hand written or printed, but the password MUST BE HAND WRITTEN. Also, make sure the sign is clear and readable in your photo. The entry period runs from January 1 to October 31st. The Build-Off ends November 30th at 11:59PM. Any project that is NOT completed or compliant to the rules stated above upon the official finish announcement on that date will not qualify for judging and subsequently winning (see official contest rule "7" for definition of "complete"). Bad time management by the entrant does not grant an extension. Should an emergency happen, (provable) we may extend not more than a week. Beyond that unfortunately DNF will have to be taken. Builder should post as many details of build as possible, including parts sources/origin, design elements and difficulties, specifications, gear ratios, etc.
- Entrants -
1.) Must hold a valid ATLTF membership in good standing. 2.) May Join ATLTF in order to qualify for contest entry. 3.) Must maintain their ATLTF membership status in good standing for the entire duration of the contest. 4.) May enter more than one project for the competition.
- Probation -
Builds that have not updated since creation, or 3 months no update will go into a "Build Probation" folder for not following the rules.
Entrants MUST update their thread at least MONTHLY detailing progress, with either write-ups, videos and/or photos. (Posting "Nothing done" is an update)
Criteria for Probation: 1 Month no update by "Entrant"- Asked to Update 2 Months no update by "Entrant - Warning given 3 Months no update by "Entrant - Moved to Probation
Builds still in this "Probation" folder at the end of the build-off will automatically be deemed "Disqualified/DNF!" To have your build removed from Probation, you will need to petition the Admin Team to have it taken back out no later than November 15. Contact link is on the bottom of any ATLTF.COM page.
- Completion -
Upon completion, builder MUST post a video of completed build, consisting of a walk-around and operation to demonstrate function and capabilities. The video must be hosted on a site that will allow the video to be shared in your post, such as YouTube. Builders should also make a post saying that build is completed, or risk build not qualifying. If for some reason you are not able to shoot or post this video, you MUST contact a forum administrator to closely scrutinize your build to determine eligibility BEFORE the competition closes.
In the event of a tie, winner will be determined by a panel of judges. There was indeed a tie for 2nd in 2015, in which the admin staff voted.
- Competition Specifications -
Competition Start date: January 1 Competition End date: November 30@ 6PM Central Time
Entry start date: January 1 New Entry close date: October 31 Probation Removal close date: November 15
Voting will begin promptly after reviewing entrants for completeness. (No more than 1 week)
Terms:
Space Frame: Consisting of mainly tubes or small diameter materials. Like an atv or buggie. Space Body: Consisting of mainly tubes or small diameter materials, with no supporting sheet metal. Remote: Device that activates objects without direct contact.
- Voting -
Any ATLTF member may vote for their favorite build in full confidentiality.
We will be repeating what we did in the past couple years where new accounts will be temporarily suspended from being approved to prevent account bolstering. So, if you plan on participating in voting, pull up a chair and join us here.
2.) Now, take a picture of that sign with whatever parts/tractor you're beginning with!
(Please note, not computer generated like above)
3.) Start a new thread in this section --> Build Off Entries Title your post with your name and project, ie: Doc's Demon or Rick's Racer or whatever. Be creative! When we accept your entry, a [23] will be added to your title. Please do not add this yourself.
4.) In your thread, post the picture(s) and a description outlining your build plans. Remember that your project must be LESS than 50% finished to qualify, so you need to convince us you have a lot of work ahead. Make it count!
5.) Once we've had a chance to go over your entry post and determine that you're good to go, your thread will be moved to the Contest Build Threads section. Remember to review the Rules and make sure your sign has ALL the info on it, or your entry will not be qualified. **THE RULES HAVE UPDATED for 2023**
Good luck to everyone and may the greatest tractor win!!!
NEW Video version of the entry instructions and qualification rules, with explanations:
Doc Sprocket has a couple great videos from past that is still relevant for most parts! ***Please note that the videos were for a previous year, so the dates and rule numbers will be wrong. However- all the rules as explained, remain MOSTLY the same*** 2015 Build-off
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October 29th 2023, 2:39 pm
