Search found 20 matches for Buildoff2024

#Buildoff2024

So my other build got Cancelled due to an accident and I scrapped it BUT I saved some of the parts to build this one, it's an LT1000 but now it's basically a light GT, and for lack of a better name imma call it the GT1000. Kinda cheated a little but TRUST me there is a lot of work left to do on this rig. Here we are so far. Huge PIC DUMP!!!


















Approved MightyRaze 5/5/24

#Buildoff2024





I was just about to change motor and controller after 5 years of trouble free electric service (to something smaller and potentially harder to deal with) and do some updates to the Tractor, when I thought, what did I post on ATLTF 5 years ago? Turns out I did not get as far as I would like and a divorce got in the way, so I would like to try this  Build-Off thing again!

The plan is basically the same as it was, with a new motor challenge:

• Install a downsized RC motor and controller (the current motor and controller need to be put into a 1987 Honda 250 ATV for the 11 y/o since she is outgrowing the Power Wheels and other ride-ons).
  
• Buy and build a new battery pack that can feed the 120 amp RC speed control so I can get some torque from the motor (the old Headways cells from 5 years ago went into a Razor dirtbike and the tractor has been on (5) gen 1 Greenworks 40V power tool batteries in parallel, which are terrible).
  
• Build independent front suspension with the Eton Viper 90 front control arms & hubs and the Fox air shocks (this stuff has been sitting for too long).
  
• Build the "Articulating Swing Arm" rear suspension that I started planning years ago (will use the factory transaxle unless I have a major issue with it).
  

Other things that might happen along the way:

• Redo steering to accommodate front suspension.
  
• Build custom bench-style seat so that (2) kids can be on it at once or the new baby can sit next to me instead of on my lap.
  

Looking forward to joining the 2024 Build-Off and completing it!

Approved Mightyraze 4/10/24

#Buildoff2024


Finally getting back at it again, this time round ima do a straightforward race mower. it's an old project I started when I was younger and now I'm too big to fit in the old racer. Plans for the project go as such, new tube frame, wider & shielded rear fenders, live rear axle, Peerless 700 transmission, hopped to the moon Intek V-twin model 40, bumpers, go-kart style steering, and possibly a wheelie bar for drag racing. My apprenticeship has been going well and have been able to have a MUCH more stable cash flow, so hopefully updates will be more frequent.

Approved Mightyraze 4/10/24

#Buildoff2024

It's been a few years since I have entered into a build off, and since I just picked up this antique with some plans of making a lowered tractor it seems like a perfect time to enter again.

I'm calling her No Mow Murray because she has mowed her last lawn.





Approved Mightyraze 3/5/24

#Buildoff2024

Howdy Folks I figured it's time to enter the build off after 4 years. We have out selves a massive 1998 Yard-Man 999 Garden Tractor. She's a beautiful 836lb with a nice long 54" wheel base and 45" stance. Currently rolling on 27x9.50x15s and 18x7.50x8s. 22hp kohler command under the hood with Eaton trans. Hydraulic deck lift and a three point lift in the rear. She's a big girl. I figured she would be the perfect recovery rig for broken down rigs in the woods. Maybe a good rock Crawler who knows.

Plans for her is a complete tear down all the way to the frame. Gotta get control of that rust somehow. I have another pair of rims to make it a dually but I'd rather shove some 31x10x15 sxs tires under her. Brand new 22x11x8 kenda k284 fronts on the way. Go big or go home. Ive got a 29hp Big Block Vanguard that I may drop in if I can easily make a larger drive shaft adapter. If you that's gonna suck. That motor has a much bigger out put shaft when it comes to girth. Dual exhaust out the rear probably or short stacks. Winch bumper is a must. Hood rack Maybe or a small rear rack for storage.  Tree kickers are a must. Bigger seat and springs. Wanna build like a little crane on the back. Hubs on the front with different rims. There a 1" spindles on it but still wanna brace them. I'm sure there's more but will see. Good luck to the rest of yall. I know I've got a late start but this should be fun.



Approved Mightyraze 3/5/24

#Buildoff2024

Welp folks, looks like it’s time for my long awaited(lol) return to the buildoff! Here we can see my next victim, an only slightly abused Wheel Horse 414-8! Complete with the boat anchor kohler and even a nice mowing deck on purchase, all of that shall be ripped off, and it will be turned into a lean, mean, offroad machine! When completed, us here at the RROD design facilities hope for this tractor to sport a spicy Briggs oppy, uniquely locked differential, a brand new pair of 26x11-12 Maxxis Bighorns, and a John Deere 1” spindle front axle, and maybe even some flavor of PTO winch!

I forgot the date and had to squeeze it in there lol


Here we can see one of the future heart transplants of the tractor!


Approved Mightyraze 3/4/24

#Buildoff2024

Hey y'all, haven't really been around real proper for a while, but I picked up this sears ST 16 for FREE a few months ago. Had a broken rod (Tecumseh Special) apparently it leaked oil so bad it dried up and shredded itself right good. Been sitting in the lot since before Christmas, yesterday I found a 420cc powerfist china clone engine for it for only 50 bucks, and a set of ATV tires for 90 bucks (I was in a rush and could have talked him down way more if I was smarter but you live and learn. 420cc motor had no room for wiggle as I was first out of 50 or so people who messaged the guy.

Anyway got plans to plumb the motor up, put some ATV tires on the rear and snowblower tires on the front (I got contacts for some real cheap ones but 30 minutes west and I'm never really down that way, might have to dedicate a trip)
I have a winch kicking around here somewhere, pulley setup I'm thinking 8" to 4", maybe 3" hoping for around 40kph (25mph for yanks) @mightyraze, do you know if these rear pulleys are tapered, and if 8-4 (front to back) should be good for 40kph?

Also will probably throw some paint on her, maybe just the rims? Maybe the body. Not sure about brakes quite yet, will def. want to put them on a separate pedal for easier shifting, nicer not to have to try to find clutch point on these unsynchronized transmissions. Usually I end up towing 600+ pounds (what the wheelie horse was subjected to) so would be really nice to be able to shift properly.






Samsung pictures are horrible will post some proper ones when I drag the DSLR out there

Approved Mightyraze 2/28/24

#Buildoff2024

This is my 1975 Sears ss16 trail rig entry, Athena. Last year i was DNF so im really trying to push myself and the build that extra mile this year. Plans are quite detailed and complex but I'll keep it short. Plans are for a 3 link wishbone front suspension setup with cantilever shocks. For engine as some know, I'm using a verticle shaft 22hp briggs vtwin with a RaGB to use the stock belt system and transaxle. 4 inch midframe stretch, fabricating a custom front axle and moving it forward 3 inches.Still figuring out the steering and some other possible mods. Had to take 2 entry photos due to my chassis being at my job getting ready for fabrications and the rest at home.




-Approved by Doug Feb 7, 2024

#Buildoff2024

whoo hoo 24' build off time! Its gonna be a slow build because I have two jobs but that might actually help me get er done, so thats . I'm calling this build athe Susqvarna because I can use a few letters to change the name plus it's going to be a full suspension build using a aws rear 5speed transaxle and the stock frame I'm going to attempt to make legit A arms and for the front I haven't decided I might butcher a kids quad for aarms




-Approved 2/6/2024 MR

#Buildoff2024

The backstory
This is one of two Power Ponies (my first tractors) I bought off a Southland gentleman who kept them as runabouts for the grandkids apparently weren't getting much use.  Both came with partial 12hp Tecumseh singles and new Chinese Titan branded 17hp singles.  I paid $2k NZ all up which is a squidge over what you would pay for the 17hps new.  My 4yo named them both as soon as he saw them.  This one we call... Lily . The other one is Misty we built her up last year.  Hey I wasn't looking for two tractors but when these came up I took it as a sign.

I thought they looked cool otherwise I picked these as mud mower projects for their good bones, horizontal shaft, proper front wheel hubs, and Peerless 4 speed transaxles which seemed popular for this sort of "work".  The new motors were a bonus I figured I could get the tractors going first with the new motors and see if I enjoyed it, can always go back and work up the 12s as future projects.

Lily
I want to build Lily up to explore the trails along the Waimakariri River on daytrips or as campsite toys with my boys when they're bigger.

Coming from a coastal area there is a lot of rust I plan to disassemble and electrolysis everything.  Haven't decided yet if I will go whole hog replacing bearings seals and ball joints or not... probably yes, to me it's worth the $ on parts for all the time that goes into it.  I went so far with Misty as to frame up an electrolysis bath in the garage for the frame, warning it's very addictive bringing crusty old parts back to life!

Peerless 2306A feels ok and oil in it may take it apart give it a good clean these are neat little gearboxes!  Want to drive it off-road first before locking.

I've bought new 25x10-12 side-by-side tires you see in the photo.  Came with new 16" turf fronts OK... for now.

Need to find or make a belt guard.

Pulley wise I plan an 8" on the engine, and leave the final 4" alone it seems small enough for the B belt.  The intermediate pulley I can flip for another ~20% speed.

The 17hp hole pattern has the same width as the one in the frame but different length so I plan to add to the front crossmember which moves the motor a couple inches forward.  The fibreglass hood will need to be extended.

So, nothing drastic looking forward to getting her cleaned up and bigger tires.






Approved MightyRaze 2-2-2024 got to love the International Dateline.

#Buildoff2024

I bought a bunch of Snapper RER mowers to restore over the last 18 months.  Number 3 was run over by something at auction, but, it had a motor!  So, I took that motor off and put it on Snapper # 1.  The most complete and with the nicest paint. Not running because the head was broken so it could not be pull started. I have bought a good used head,hoping I can get the motor started.  I have a scrap 10 HP I can rebuild as backup.

Snapper 1028 # 2 I bought just because I liked the way it looked.  It's rear axle is locked solid, I do not know why.  I had to drag it to the current resting spot.  Though under the sheet metal, it is the same RER Snapper as the others.  I do not know what it means by Convertible with the recycle logo. Maybe it was offered with a sun shade? :-D

# 3 I was going to use the rims for my AWS axle on  the 6x6.  If they do not fit, I might use this one for parts on this project.

# 4,# 5,# 6 are donors.

What I want to do is get one working 6x8 out of # 2 by combining it with 2 more drive units.  I want to buy a front engine Snapper riding lawn mower with the cast iron front axle so I can keep it almost all Snapper parts. I do not see the stock RER front axle being a viable axle off road unless you like having the steering wheel ripped out of your hands on a regular basis.  Plus, I need to run a minimum of 16" tires in the front.

It is going to lose the cutting deck and be replaced by a solid floor because all I can see is someone hitting a hard bump, their feet coming off off the pedals, and running themselves over.  After giving themselves a wedgie.

I think it would be cool to be able to stand up while riding a trail, especially uphill, so, a solid deck it is.  Probably will have tilt steering to that end.

If I like it and it comes out okay, I will take Snapper # 1 and convert that too. For a HIS and HER matching set.

I have a scrap 16 HP vertical engine to rebuild for this project.  If  it gets too involved, I will just go buy a new engine.  I want to be riding at least the framework by the end of February even if the other 2 driven axles are only place holders.

I was just going to scrap # 3-# 6 after removing spare parts, after getting two complete RER Snappers going (# 1 and # 2).

Reason for this build, just something cool for the contest that i can start riding right away.  Plus, I am redoing my porch AND I have to get all the leaves and such removed before I start welding and cutting metal outside for my main 6x6 project.

At the moment I have 6 Snapper RER and 6 riding lawn mowers (2 running one under repair), along with a dead lawn aerator.  So, I need to clean up my yard in a hurry.

As to how I am going to drive all the 6 wheels at the same time ... I have no idea until I take # 3 apart and see how the internals are driven.  I know it is a chain drive, I do not know the chain size, sprocket tooth count, etc.

Basic outline:

< 96" long
< 36" wide
  6x8 with three rear driven axles. Engine in the rear behind an improved seat.

  Going tracks is within the realm of possibilities.
 
Unlike most of my other stuff, which is work related, this is just for fun.  I don't care if it can cut grass or anything else.  Though towing a cart might be nice.  Maybe a little utility bed or fold out camper.

I might put working lights on it so it is low speed vehicle ready.

















When you see the "could of been" RER Snapper you just might say "Oh SNAP!"



reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aofoBrFNdg



Approved Jan 28th, 2024 by @Brianator

#Buildoff2024

Hi all, figured it was time to throw my hat in the ring since I was building this anyway and hopefully bring a part of the build off will keep me motivated to update the thread here as I’m pretty bad about that
Entry pic



The plan is to build up this little truck bed mini mower called a Bonaza for my daughter to ride with me and my wife. I struggled finding a engine, as I didn’t want something big and heavy in case she flips it over, so I wanted something under 5hp, but she also really loves to use the key to start my quad and her moms and my tractors when we take her rides so I really wanted a electric start option. A few hours of searching showed me that Honda actually made electric start push mowers for years, but it was a fairly rare option, couple weeks of scouring Facebook marketplace and I hit the jackpot, a late 80s Honda HR217 popped up and the guy actually needed dome ag tires for his sears garden tractor so a deal was struck and a trade happened. Now this little motor is wild, only 120cc but has a driveshaft coming out the side of it that runs the self propelled gearbox. After checking it out I think it will make a really cool little pto winch so that’s on the build list now. I’ve stripped it all down to make the work easier and I’m gonna build the hood and possibly the dash from scratch, but I’ll update that as I go


Approved MightyRaze - 1/26/24

#Buildoff2024

What would you get if a crazy engineer cloned 3 lawn tractors and threw them into a test tube to see what would pop up? A cloneimals6x6* little beast all terrain lawn tractor.

Goal - build a diesel powered 4x6 or 6x6 lawn or garden tractor using, whenever possible++, parts that were offered on factory lawn tractors or garden tractors.  Try to avoid custom metal work beyond simple metal cutting and welding. I could go out and buy a cheap $3000 lathe, but, the idea is to complete a project others can follow and build. Though I plan on using my plasma cutter, it will not be beyond what a sawzall or cut off wheel could do with finesse.

I would like to keep it 36" or under in width, under 8 feet in length, under 800 pounds, roll cage that doubles as a rain and sun shade since this will actually be working in the fields and woods if I am successful. As anyone knows that lives in Georgia, it is not uncommon to get a heavy rain shower in the afternoon. Second seating that doubles as a dump bed. At least a dump bed.

++ I bought an All-Wheel Steer (AWS) rear axle from what I assume is a craftsman, to use as a front axle. Peerless 920.

Frame will be 3 or 4 " C-channel of 3/16", which I already have.

Painted white or forest green.  I paint many of my vehicles and such forest green.

Insulated coffee cup holders!

Ability to stow a big tool box, two spare tires, small medical kit, tire repair kit, compressor, extra 1-2 gallons of diesel.

Electric winch, group 24 or bigger battery, maybe a 120v inverter. Some sort of provision for at least a winch in the back if room allows.  Small floor jack (already have it).

Alternator with a minimum of 40 amps.

Be able to push or tow implements and trailers.

Front end loader.

Provision for weight brackets front and rear.

Most likely all the axles will be driven by hydraulics.  The front axle might be floating, though probably solid. Rear axle will be locked.

Top speed of 10 mph.  Has to have very low crawling speed and torque.

Ability to enable only the rear or middle axle for road or high traction travel.

Solid working mechanical parking brakes.

Somehow figure out a seat safety that cuts off the diesel.

The diesel engine for the moment is a Yanmar L100N clone I bought off Amazon. I will probably add some sort of glow plug for cold weather starting.

*Note: I own the URL cloneimals from an old video game I wrote. Just delete this line after reading.
** I think I will leave it















-Approved MightyRaze 1-9-24

#Buildoff2024

I plan on doing a lot to it and use all these parts and peice that I have collected and bought but most of it I had laying around like the frame and stuff the rest is going to make my skid plate and make my existing frame stouter and a MST 206 it's going to be locked and have 4 points of contact and the skid is are going to run from the front all the way out the rear an plus add more support for the mst 296



-Approval MightyRaze 1-1-24

#Buildoff2024

The Silver Bullet is back!



After having to drop out of last years Build Off this build is now back on! No work has been done to it so it's in the same state I left it in at the end of last January which is essentially just a roller with the chassis/body mostly sorted out and a decent layer of rust on the front axle I built.


Before I get into the meat of it, here's a brief history lesson on it but I do encourage you to check out PART 1 of the build so you can get familiar with it and see how it got to where it is now...

Back in October of 2021 I found it at a local scrapyard for $50 with the intention of using it as a parts machine (aka The Partshorse) for The Warhorse. As you can see it was missing the front spindles/wheels/tie rod, engine, most of the wiring and a rear wheel. The body was beat up pretty badly as well but other than that it was a pretty clean and strait machine!


In the spring of 2022 I bought a complete front axle from the same scrapyard and then installed it in June so it was at least a roller.


In July I used it to start mocking up and fitting a MST203 that was going in The Warhorse.

Then in January of 2023 I entered it into the Build Off and we all know how that ended up...


Never the less, I'm back on it and my goals are essentially the same with a couple of minor changes:

~ I still wanna go fast! (35MPH+)
~ Reinforce it while keeping weight savings in mind.
~ Build it to race specs in case I get a chance to actually race it.
~ Slam it to (or close to) the class limit of 4" from the frame to the ground. COMPLETE!
~ Build a custom front axle. COMPLETE!
~ Build direct steering from scratch.
~ Lower the bodywork and seat. COMPLETE!
~ No electronics aside from the ignition/kill - pull start only!
~ Install the 3 speed Peerless MST203.
~ Build the 10hp B&S scrapyard engine into a ripsnorter using some of the parts from the dead 11hp engine.
~ Shave weight wherever I can.
~ Give it a racecar appearance package!


Here's a few parts I had previously gathered before calling it quits but didn't show because they were going to be a surprise as the build went on. As part of the racecar appearance package (and for safety) I picked up this killer Grant 12" steering wheel for a great price and also I've been converting this small aluminum universal "washer fluid" tank into a fuel cell! Yes it's pretty small but it should be able to handle finishing a race, more on the conversation later when it actually gets finished and installed. I found the shifter handle pretty cheap and thought it would look great although it might not be used because I may go another route but I'm not quite sure yet.


This badge itself I found on the ground of the same scrapyard weeks or months later and figured it was for a golf cart or something...

...but a few weeks ago I came across this tractor for sale locally which makes me wonder IF it actually came from this machine or not?

Funny thing is I was already playing around with the name "Silver Bullet" so when I found it I took it as a sign! Upon further inspection I believe it WAS on it! I'm not sure how well it will show up in the picture because it's almost invisible to the naked eye but I can see evidence of paint fade forming the "S" to the left side and above/below it so it looks like it truly is the "Silver Bullet"!


As you can see, I have LOTS of work ahead of me! The engine is in pieces and incomplete, I need to build a clutch, the trans needs to be locked/installed/shifter fabbed up, I need to build steering linkages from scratch, gas/brake pedals and a bunch of other things need to be built and sorted out so this will not be a walk in park but I'm excited to build it! I'll also need to build a FNR for The Warhorse on the side so I can keep it in working order once I pull the MST203 for this machine.

Sorry for the extra long introduction but I hope you enjoy!

Let's make the 10th anniversary of the Build Off a great one with lots of entries making it to voting!

Best of luck to all of us and have a great 2024!



-Approved MightyRaze 12-30-24

#Buildoff2024

OK, take 2.

My plan is to take this 93 Craftsman GT6000 into an awesome Rally off-road build.

Plan is to strip the deck and deck related parts as well as front attachments.  Go over the Kohler Magnum in it and get it purring like a kitten if possible.  Condition unknown.  The 6 speed transaxle appears to be in good shape as it easily shifts in all gears as well as hi/lo.  Locking will be done.  I may go a new route and NOT paint this one except for the frame.  Various mods, beefing, and upgrades will happen!

Without further ado...

The Marshal.





-Approval Brianator 12-29-23

#Buildoff2024


Build Plan:
-Build an Off Road Mower capable of mowing the hill climbs at the farm
-be able to remove the deck so in-experienced drivers can easily have fun on an easy to drive hydro
-tire swap to gain 1.5" more deck lift and ground clearance
-fix horrible sloppy steering
-repair oil leak in Kohler Command CV18
-build a front bumper with tow point for moving trailers and wagon
-I'm not a fan of the sedan looking factory hood so I may hood swap it
-add front and rear lights
-maybe re-wire tractor or at least fix previous owner's hacks


-Approved 12-27-2023 MR

#Buildoff2024

This is my entry for the 2024 build off! 
The plan is to take this 1 by 1 angle iron and make a custom frame that fits the craftsman gen 2 body panels. I will make this a lowered build, either fliping the transaxle or making a jackshaft out of a lawn mower spindle. I will pull the trans out of my old craftsman mudder, and use the pictured 12 hp engine. I will also be using other parts of the craftsman to, like the front tires off it are going to be the backs.








-Approved 12/20/2023 MR

#Buildoff2024

Wow, is it that time again?  Grab your tools; get your tractor parts pile ready!  The 2024 ATLTF Build Off begins NOW!

So what do you need to do to get started?

1.) Make a sign with the following info:
(The sign can be written or printed, but the password MUST BE HAND WRITTEN.)

[size=16]ATLTF 2024 Build-Off[/size]
[size=16]Password:  PORKY PIG[/size]
[size=16]Date of entry.[/size]
[size=16]Your ATLTF Username[/size]

2.) Now, take a picture of that sign with whatever parts/tractor you're beginning with!

EXAMPLE!!! Please note how the sign is clearly read.


3.) Start a new thread in this section --> Build Off Entries Title your post with your name and project, ie: Doc's Demon or Rick's Racer or whatever. Be creative!  When we accept your entry, a [24] will be added to your title. Please do not add this yourself. It could delay your build's acceptance.

4.) In your thread, post the picture(s) and a description outlining your build plans. Remember that your project must be LESS than 50% finished to qualify, so you need to convince us you have a lot of work ahead. Make it count!

5.) Once we've had a chance to go over your entry post and determine that you're good to go, your thread will be moved to the Contest Build Threads section. Remember to review the Rules and make sure your sign has ALL the info on it, or your entry will not be qualified. **THE RULES HAVE UPDATED for 2024**

Good luck to everyone and may the greatest tractor win!!!

#Buildoff2024

What is the ATLTF Build-off?  It is a fun competition for the members of ATLTF to modify a garden tractor, a lawn tractor or a riding mower into a rough, tough, sexy mow-chine in 11 months or less.  Then the members get to vote for their favorite!  We do have a base set of rules to keep the playing field level and fair for all the members of any skill set to have fun!  Reminder, we have members 13 and older.  We would like to keep it fun for all!

Read on to learn the rules and how to enter!  
**THE RULES HAVE UPDATED for 2024**

- Qualifying Builds -

1.) Must be a small, personal-transportation type vehicle, capable of carrying operator, and not more than one additional passenger. Resemblant of a lawn or garden tractor.

2.) Must be self-propelled.

3.) Must be powered by a small "OPE" (Outdoor Power Equipment) type engine. Generally:
One to three cylinders, 2 or 4 stroke gasoline or diesel.

• Air cooled; water cooled (some OPE's have water cooled engines)
  
• Horizontal or vertical crankshaft
  
• Derived from: lawn mowers, leaf blowers, lawn/yard/garden tractors, pressure washers, portable generators, tillers, cement mixers, weed-eaters, leaf mulchers/ vacuums, water/ trash pumps. *Additionally, more than one qualifying engine may be used. 
  

...3.1) Electric powered machines will be considered by-basis, so long it complies with all other rules.

4.) Framing requirements.

• No automobile, truck, SUV, etc. chassis
  
• No full ATV chassis 
  
• No "Compact Tractor" chassis from larger homestead tractors allowed.
  
• Passable examples are: Lawn tractor, yard tractor, garden tractor and mini chassis’, stock or modified. 
  
• Custom-built chassis are allowed provided the end result will be resemblant of a lawn or garden tractor chassis.  Specifically ladder, tunnel, or pan-style. No space frames, or frames made primarily from tubing that are resemblant to go karts, rock crawlers/ bouncers, etc. Chassis made of tubes are allowed. See examples below. 
  
  EXAMPLES of custom tube style frames ALLOWED!
  
   
  
  
  
• Tube skeletons for bracing and exoskeletons are permitted upon approval.  Must "wrap" a portion of the tractor or strengthen the lawn tractor frame. Not replace a portion of the tractor. With one exception, it can replace a missing hood in name of safety. 
  
  An OK example is like @diddie 's Beast:
  
  
  
  
• Scabbing in framing parts of an ATV frame not allowed.  Using parts such as suspension components is approved as long as it does not take away from the tractor frame/appearance.  Example, welding the front of an ATV frame to a tractor frame is not allowed.  Fabricating and attaching independent suspension pieces from an ATV is OK. 
  

5.) Must run on any number of wheels, tracks, skis, or any combination of these, limited by the following constraint: A minimum of 4 points of contact must be made with the ground, a minimum of two if vehicle is "tracked". Points of contact are defined as wheels, tracks, or skis. Wheels cannot be configured in an inline pattern similar to a "cycle".

6.) Sheet-metal and bodywork is open; however, the end result MUST be resemblant of a tractor in some aspect. Micro-cars, cycles, trikes, rock crawlers/ bouncers,  etc. are not permitted.


7.) Must be "complete" by deadline date. The purpose of this rule is not only to define completeness for the contest, but to help ensure safety. Paint and related aesthetic touches are not mandatory to qualify as "complete" but may affect voting. For clarification, "Remote" specifically means "The ability to operate without touching engine". For our purposes, "complete" means:

• Starts,
  
  
• Runs
  
  
• Drives under its own power.
  
  
• Throttle must be installed and operable remotely (without operator touching engine).
  
  
• Kill switch must be installed and operable without operator touching engine.
  
  
• Engine must start with a switch of some type or be pull-start.
  
  
• Braking system must be installed and functional.
  
  
• Steering system must be installed and functional.
  

8.) Must NOT be more than 50% complete prior to the official start date.   Lightly modified builds for the contest will not qualify. As part of qualification, contest entrants will post a picture of the major parts source(s), including a physical sign showing the commencement date and password. Completeness will be defined by your write-up of what is to be done and by seeing your parts in photos. 

9.) Entry must be built by the entrant. A team of more than one can enter and build a machine. Those instances, the team would have to share or split any potential winnings should they win.  No contracting "hiring out" parts of the entry to be "built" by someone else.  It is OK, to purchase "over the counter parts" for your entry.

Entries and finalized builds are screened by the administration and we reserve the right to decline entries/ finalized builds if we feel they are not observant or compliant to the rules as stated above.

- Competition Details -

The Build-Off commences January 1st. You may NOT start building until the official start announcement on that date, but you MAY plan and collect parts until that time. The official start announcement will contain a PASSWORD. Entrants MUST start a build thread in the [Build-Off Entries] forum and post a photo of their main parts pile that contains a physical sign bearing "ATLTF 2024 Build-Off", your username, the date, and the password for the build-off in the same photo.  The sign can be hand written or printed, but the password MUST BE HAND WRITTEN.  Also, make sure the sign is clear and readable in your photo.  The entry period runs from January 1 to October 31st.  The Build-Off ends November 30th at 6PM Central. Any project that is NOT completed or compliant to the rules stated above upon the official finish announcement on that date will not qualify for judging and subsequently winning (see official contest rule "7" for definition of "complete").  Bad time management by the entrant does not grant an extension.  Should an emergency happen, (provable) we may extend not more than a week.  Beyond that unfortunately DNF will have to be taken. Builder should post as many details of build as possible, including parts sources/origin, design elements and difficulties, specifications, etc.

- Entrants -

1.) Must hold a valid ATLTF membership in good standing.
2.) May Join ATLTF in order to qualify for contest entry.
3.) Must maintain their ATLTF membership status in good standing for the entire duration of the contest.
4.) May enter more than one project for the competition.

- Completion -

Upon completion, builder MUST post a video of completed build, consisting of a walk-around and operation to demonstrate function and capabilities. The video must be hosted on a site that will allow the video to be shared in your post, such as YouTube. Builders should also make a post saying that build is completed, or risk build not qualifying. If for some reason you are not able to shoot or post this video, you MUST contact a forum administrator to closely scrutinize your build to determine eligibility BEFORE the competition closes.

In the event of a tie, winner will be determined by a panel of judges. There was indeed a tie for 2nd in 2015, in which the admin staff voted.

- Competition Specifications -

Competition Start date: January 1
Competition End date: November 30 @ 6PM Central Time


Entry start date: January 1
New Entry close date: October 31

Voting will begin promptly after reviewing entrants for completeness. (No more than 1 week)

Terms:

Space Frame/body: Consisting of mainly tubes or small diameter materials. Like an ATF or buggy  with or without hung sheet metal.

• Space frame/body example:
  
  
  
  
  

Remote: Device or controller that activates objects without direct contact.  Examples would be a starter switch/button, kill switch, dash throttle, etc.

- Voting -

Any ATLTF member may vote for their favorite build in full confidentiality.

We will be repeating what we did in the past couple years where new accounts will be temporarily suspended from being approved to prevent account bolstering. So, if you plan on participating in voting, pull up a chair and join us here.



PLEASE NOTE:  This is the 10th year for the Build-Off.  The Build-Off will more than likely go on HIATUS after this year for a little while to regroup.  So if you want to join the fun.  This is the year to do it!