I get alot of requests on how to do this, vari drive to a transaxle.
It basically consists of
-Getting a transaxle, and making mounts for it (i have a 5 speed 930 in this swap)
-Making a clutch
-Setting up clutch springs
-Making clutch linkage
-Brake setup
-New shiftier
Its sorta easy when
you think about it,
you just gotta commit to doing it, not very hard.
You have to understand clutch systems, how it disengages, and tightens for more belt grip.
Here's how it should be done.
I started with the clutch, it should be on the slack side of the belt, meaning the left side of the tractor if
you are standing in front of it.
you want the engine to pull the belt in a straight line, from rear axle to engine, like a tight rope. If
you had a clutch there it will loosen the clutch and cause belt slipping. (that's one thing that i did wrong on my conversion.)
First make sure
you have a solid mount for your clutch, thick metal will prevent
you wearing out the hole
you drilled, and the bolt too from it moving in clutching action.
Next
you make your clutch, this is how i did mine, seems like the easiest. The two pulleys help each other to tighten the belt. I made this t looking clutch out of plates. then i bought 5/8" bolts for the center of the pulleys i got from tractor supply. I think there 3" each, one v belt, and one flat.
I welded a piece of steel with a hole in it for my clutch spring.
There is a plate in the rear frame rails holding a plastic idler pulley that was originally for the vari-drive rear belt. I cut the pulley section off so it was just a plate. I welded a washer to the bottom of that plate, and welded it in-between the frame rails. The spring connects to a bolt with a nut welded to the end. The bolt goes through the washer and another nut on the other side.
For linkage, i first welded a metal tab onto the foot petal that is a big 5/8" rod. its just one side is a steering rod end, the other end is adjustable, its important it is. I use a rope to check clearances; rope acting like a belt.
Seance
you will be buying a new belt, this is a great opportunity to do a pulley swap. i have 4" front, 4" rear. Seance i did my clutch on the other side the belt clears my shiftier rod, but on the other side i don't think that will be so.
You might need a idler pulley and a mount to move the belt away from hitting the rod if that's the case.
Now, making a shiftier, there's a few ways of doing it.
You can make a shiftier out of the mower deck lever, FearlessFront has a video on it. I have not tried that way.
You can make a "nutbuster" shiftier (between the legs) would be the easiest.
You just have to cut a hole in the rear fender, and its done. The way i did it was on the right hand side-shiftier. I used a rod that goes through both sides of the chassis, and a cut bolt welded to that rod just to keep it there. Make sure the rod is thick, so it doesn't bend.
Drilled holes in chassis
Rod section
This was welded to the handel bar
Handle though the fender on the side i used
I cut the original shiftier for the axle up, welded a washer to it
And this is were it comes together. The metal piece i'm holding is welded to a washer, a adjustable end goes though that washer, and another steering rod end goes in the axle's shiftier
Setting up brakes is kinda your own decision too. I decided to keep it simple and make a cool hand brake:
In the middle between the red rod pieces is a sleeve around a bolt
Welded a stopper behind the brake arm there and used a chain because it doesn't stretch like a rope.
All
you need to do is size a belt now.
I have a YouTube channel chalk FULL of videos of all the pictures
you've seen above:
https://www.youtube.com/user/redlinemotorsportts