Cheap 3/4" axles?

Can someone please point me in the direction of a really inexpensive 3/4" solid axle?

I have looked through all the links in the "parts and accessories" threads. There are lots of 1 inch and larger axles. But I can't find any that are 3/4".

I need 3/4" by at least 44 to 46 inch long. Shorter would probably do the job, but the ideal length is going to be around 45 inches.

look on BMI karts

I bought some steel rod at a local supply shop near me that I think was 3/4". I think it was just mild steel rod, but i'm not sure. First I got a piece that was plated with something to prevent rust. Even though it was 3/4", it wouldn't fit too good through my bearings. Then I bought some regular stuff that worked better. Home depot/lowes has some steel rod, but i'm not sure if they have it as big as that, maybe not. Maybe search online for 3/4" rod instead of axles.

willis923 wrote:

look on BMI karts

Angchor (In the OP) wrote:

I have looked through all the links in the "parts and accessories" threads. There are lots of 1 inch and larger axles. But I can't find any that are 3/4".

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mr.modified wrote:

I bought some steel rod at a local supply shop near me that I think was 3/4". I think it was just mild steel rod, but i'm not sure. First I got a piece that was plated with something to prevent rust. Even though it was 3/4", it wouldn't fit too good through my bearings. Then I bought some regular stuff that worked better. Home depot/lowes has some steel rod, but i'm not sure if they have it as big as that, maybe not. Maybe search online for 3/4" rod instead of axles.

It's going to have to be actual axle. A standard steel rod will probably not hold up to this use.

Old wise man told me the cheapest way to get steal it.

In all seriousness tho. Shop around cart sites and local steel yards.

McMaster Carr, Surplus Center. Places I buy parts like shafting,sprockets and pulleys. Axles have to be hardened steel or they bend real easy.

by all means, Surplus Center is your friend. Go to their site and on the left if you hover over power transmission, in their catagories you will see more options pop up. One of them is shafting. They have actual 3/4" shafting like you are looking for.

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Old wise man told me the cheapest way to get steal it.

I never told you any such thing!   


Thank you to everyone that responded!

Some random, related comments:

-There's a huge difference between rod (bar) stock and shaft. Bar stock is not, by nature, "straight". You're really rolling the dice. The dimensions are not as closely controlled, so it might fit thru your bearings and hubs, it might not, it might have a ton of slop. Rolling dice. Hardness- mild steel is mild steel, and bar stock is typically mild. That said, shafting (to be used as axles and such) should not be TOO hard. You want some give. A good impact will cause hard steel to snap. C1018 or similar is just fine.

Angchor- I'm sorry- I don't know where to point you. 3/4" is not a common go kart size, so it's a bit harder to attain. I typically get things like this from one of a couple local steel suppliers, and I think you're up the creek on that front.

Surplus center is out of everything 3/4" except 36" lengths. However, a quick Google search for "keyed shafting "3/4"" turned up a bunch. Example:Grainger Item # 30F601 | Mfr. Model # 3/4 GKS-1045-48, which is 48" long @ $65.45. Grainger also shows stainless shafting, but is quite expensive for a mower build. It would never rust-seize to the rim though,

Looks like I may be getting a second, running tractor. And possibly a third, non-running, for parts. So this may become moot.

Let me tell you what I was thinking, though, so you can understand why all the questions about shafts and bearings, etc...

No matter what I do, budget is the key word. Whenever I am trying to solve a problem, I have to reuse anything I already have, as much as possible.

Problem. The tractor feels tippy in a few places on the trail I use it on. Solution... Maybe lower the COG. Maybe widen the stance, at least on the back axle.

I'd like to lower the COG, and at the same time, lengthen it a bit, to get myself a bit farther back from that steering wheel. AND widen the axle, some...

The one thing that would do the most good, the quickest, would be to widen the rear axle.

Looking at ways to accomplish that it seems that most of the options weaken the overall 'system'. As in, the axles are put under more strain.

The best option seems to be to add a live axle, and drive that with chains and sprockets from the transaxle.

Ok, decision made, lets look at what it will take to do that. (Axle, sprockets, chains, pillow blocks, angle iron, etc.)

Yup... expense. So how do we reuse as much of what I already have, as possible, to keep the cost down?

The axle, the sprockets, the chains and the pillow blocks all have to be purchased. I can find materials to fab the axle supports, etc...

The sprockets for the peerless have to be 3/4". The sprockets for the live axle will naturally be for whatever size live axle I get.

The chains will be purchased to fit the sprockets, of course.

And the pillow blocks also have to fit the axles. (Two for the peerless. 2 to 4 for the live axle.)

So... the one way I can cut the expense, is if I get a 3/4" live axle, so that I can reuse my existing wheels and tires. Otherwise I also have to buy the wheels, tires, possible flanges, etc...

A good solution here would be to find a 45 inch 1" or 1-1/4" axle, with turned down ends that are long enough to fit my wheels onto. But the only axles that I have found that fit that description are turned down for only about an inch and a half at the end.


Again, this may all become moot if I get the other tractors, and either one of them are more stable on that trail than this one is.

Angchor wrote:

Looks like I may be getting a second, running tractor. And possibly a third, non-running, for parts. So this may become moot.

Let me tell you what I was thinking, though, so you can understand why all the questions about shafts and bearings, etc...

No matter what I do, budget is the key word. Whenever I am trying to solve a problem, I have to reuse anything I already have, as much as possible.

Problem. The tractor feels tippy in a few places on the trail I use it on. Solution... Maybe lower the COG. Maybe widen the stance, at least on the back axle.

I'd like to lower the COG, and at the same time, lengthen it a bit, to get myself a bit farther back from that steering wheel. AND widen the axle, some...

The one thing that would do the most good, the quickest, would be to widen the rear axle.

Looking at ways to accomplish that it seems that most of the options weaken the overall 'system'. As in, the axles are put under more strain.

The best option seems to be to add a live axle, and drive that with chains and sprockets from the transaxle.  

Ok, decision made, lets look at what it will take to do that. (Axle, sprockets, chains, pillow blocks, angle iron, etc.)

Yup... expense. So how do we reuse as much of what I already have, as possible, to keep the cost down?

The axle, the sprockets, the chains and the pillow blocks all have to be purchased. I can find materials to fab the axle supports, etc...

The sprockets for the peerless have to be 3/4". The sprockets for the live axle will naturally be for whatever size live axle I get.

The chains will be purchased to fit the sprockets, of course.

And the pillow blocks also have to fit the axles. (Two for the peerless. 2 to 4 for the live axle.)

So... the one way I can cut the expense, is if I get a 3/4" live axle, so that I can reuse my existing wheels and tires. Otherwise I also have to buy the wheels, tires, possible flanges, etc...

A good solution here would be to find a 45 inch 1" or 1-1/4" axle, with turned down ends that are long enough to fit my wheels onto. But the only axles that I have found that fit that description are turned down for only about an inch and a half at the end.


Again, this may all become moot if I get the other tractors, and either one of them are more stable on that trail than this one is.

Now thats a WALL of text, lol


I wouldnt widen it alot without making extra support for the long axles. Also check if your seat is infront of the rear wheels or the COG is easy lowered with moving the battery down to ground levels.