LT4000 Craftsman Mudding/Racing 250 mile trip build

Kart wheels seem to be 3/4, 5/8, and 1 inch axle sizes, and have bearings. Yes it will add to some of the cost, but might also increase your likely-hood of finishing. You might even be able to keep the stock front spindles. another advantage of kart wheels are bolt on brake parts, no fabbing required.

Yes, this might change the look you're going for(ride height and tires used), but its got to work, be reliable, and be safe; before it looks pretty. Sounds to me you guys know this already.

IF you make the investment in Kart Wheels, and they are too wide for the stock axle, let me know and Ill go get some more bent up and sent to you. I need to get some made up for another project anyway, so it wont cost you anything. I'd like to see you guys pull this off.

the old guy wrote:

Yeah money is always in short supply with me too. I plan on using Kendra Bearclaws on my next build. I was quoted a very good price at a tire dealer for two 25x10.00x12s mounted. If you have trouble mounting those superlugs let me know I will tell you how to make a two piece rim, makes mounting tires a breeze only drawback is you have to use tubes.

My dad can get the tires mounted at his job. he got my cub tires mounted there too.

RCTankboy wrote:

Kart wheels seem to be 3/4, 5/8, and 1 inch axle sizes, and have bearings. Yes it will add to some of the cost, but might also increase your likely-hood of finishing. You might even be able to keep the stock front spindles. another advantage of kart wheels are bolt on brake parts, no fabbing required.



Yes, this might change the look you're going for(ride height and tires used), but its got to work, be reliable, and be safe; before it looks pretty. Sounds to me you guys know this already.

IF you make the investment in Kart Wheels, and they are too wide for the stock axle, let me know and Ill go get some more bent up and sent to you. I need to get some made up for another project anyway, so it wont cost you anything. I'd like to see you guys pull this off.

Alright thanks if i get wheels that are too wide ill let you know

Finally some progress i cut the old axle to get the piece of pipe for the bolt and then drilled out the new axle and welded it in.
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Possible spare engine
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Mower trip HQ needs a huge map of the route on the wall and maybe an area out of the way with a coffee machine or something. You know, makes things look impressive.

Axle looks pretty good.

mr.modified wrote:

Mower trip HQ needs a huge map of the route on the wall and maybe an area out of the way with a coffee machine or something. You know, makes things look impressive.

Axle looks pretty good.

Hmm do they sell a map of the area we are going to be driving? If so ill put it on my wall. and the axle came out good it will look better once i clean up the welds i couldn't do a continuous weld all the way around because it would of worped it and the bolt wouldnt go threw so there was a lot of stopping and starting.

Yeah, tough to match it in good where you start and stop welding, but there isn't much way around it. Didn't come out too bad though.

Axle lookin good.

So i have this square piece of metal that im going to cut in half and weld on the end if the axle but before i weld it i need to add 10 degrees negative caster to the metal. then im going to drill out that metal i just welded and add some 3/4 heim joints. And ill use beefed up stock spindles. And i think that should hold up to the abuse we are going to put them thru.

So i have this square piece of metal that im going to cut in half and weld on the end if the axle but before i weld it i need to add 10 degrees negative caster to the metal. then im going to drill out that metal i just welded and add some 3/4 heim joints. And ill use beefed up stock spindles. And i think that should hold up to the abuse we are going to put them thru.

Heim joints: ww.amazon.com/American-Star-Chromoly-XMR12-Joints/dp/B00658TPYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424736151&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2F4+heim+joints

I have an idea but i need your opinion. I was going to put a disc brake and a caliper on the 3/4 axle but with the rims im using there isnt enough room and i know i could get smaller rims but i dont want too. so heres the idea i was thinking what if i took the brake disc thats on the transaxle know fliped it 180 degrees so the flat parts facing out then weld a go kart brake disc onto the transaxle brake disc and then put a caliper on it. Thoughts i think it would work only had part would be to fit the brake caliper in the tight space.

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LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:

Were you planning on making it posi? I have mixed emotions about the posi thing for this. Posi would be nice for braking fast, which you may have to do, but it tears up the tires mighty quickly. But on the other hand, open would be better on tires, but it would be squirrely when stopping fast. If you are planning on making it locked I would try it. Or you may even be able to do what Doug did to his 820, he put a band brake on his brake stub. That would be smaller than a kart disk but significantly better than stock.  I think it would be a good idea for dual brakes. One on the foot (Mowron style pedal), and one to actuate with your hand like the attachment engage lever on the dash.

Also are you planning on doing anything special for the shifter? It would be too cool if you made a T-Handle shifter with one of THESE on it. There you can save on switches and everything. and it is all within reach while driving. Then you wont have to mess with stuff on the dash while turnign and doing 30MPH.

Also while talking about turnign at 30MPH, I got some nifty chrome shocks that would look cool on that front axle. They would function good too because then you can keep a pivoting front axle, and it will be fairly stable. You can see them in my last years build off thread. They are the ones I was going to use for my rear swingarm.

Im sort of up in the air on weather or not to lock the transaxle i might lock it it so it will stop straight but for now im going to leave it unlocked.
And i was thinking of making the hydro lever on the side the brake lever. And i actually took the pistol grip type handle from the hydro lever and welded it onto the shifter its alot more comfortable. And i actually want switches and buttons on the dash i even welded in holes on the dash so i can drill new holes for the switches and buttons. but thanks for the idea though.

Craftsman1998 wrote:

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Not to be that guy, But you may want to redo this weld, Kinda scary, especially on a key area like this. It's going to be subjected to alot of pressure, and ALOT of vibration. No to mention if you hit a pothole doing 30 this may actually fail. Try running it alittle hotter.

Craftsman1998 wrote:

the old guy wrote:

Check out SurplusCenter.com for bearings tie rod ends and such will save you money. they are my go to place for parts. that's not bad price for tires about what I paid for 20x10.00x8 at my local tire dealer.

Thanks ill definitely check them out. And i checked at tractor supply for the tires i needed and there 100 dollars a piece which i think is insane when im a poor teenager lol and i can get them online cheaper. And knobbys are 65 dollars a piece which isnt that bad but i dont think i want knobbys on this build.

If those $65 tires are the 20". That is what I run. I can go anywhere I want to and I have a open diff. Only thing I wished was they stayed a little more flat. If you drive around to other tractor supply stores, I found the same $100 tractor tire on sale for $60. The one I go to had only one tractor and one knobby for regular price, but I got stupid and drove to another without buying one. When I got to the other it was the same deal, but the tractor style tire was on sale for $60. If I knew the other store had one on sale, I would have bought the $100 then go get the other on sale. Good luck on your search.

Craftsman1998 wrote:

LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:

Were you planning on making it posi? I have mixed emotions about the posi thing for this. Posi would be nice for braking fast, which you may have to do, but it tears up the tires mighty quickly. But on the other hand, open would be better on tires, but it would be squirrely when stopping fast. If you are planning on making it locked I would try it. Or you may even be able to do what Doug did to his 820, he put a band brake on his brake stub. That would be smaller than a kart disk but significantly better than stock.  I think it would be a good idea for dual brakes. One on the foot (Mowron style pedal), and one to actuate with your hand like the attachment engage lever on the dash.

Also are you planning on doing anything special for the shifter? It would be too cool if you made a T-Handle shifter with one of THESE on it. There you can save on switches and everything. and it is all within reach while driving. Then you wont have to mess with stuff on the dash while turnign and doing 30MPH.

Also while talking about turnign at 30MPH, I got some nifty chrome shocks that would look cool on that front axle. They would function good too because then you can keep a pivoting front axle, and it will be fairly stable. You can see them in my last years build off thread. They are the ones I was going to use for my rear swingarm.

Im sort of up in the air on weather or not to lock the transaxle i might lock it it so it will stop straight but for now im going to leave it unlocked.
And i was thinking of making the hydro lever on the side the brake lever. And i actually took the pistol grip type handle from the hydro lever and welded it onto the shifter its alot more comfortable. And i actually want switches and buttons on the dash i even welded in holes on the dash so i can drill new holes for the switches and buttons. but thanks for the idea though.

You could do what fearlessfront did with his T handle brake setup.

Murray modder wrote:

Craftsman1998 wrote:

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Not to be that guy, But you may want to redo this weld, Kinda scary, especially on a key area like this. It's going to be subjected to alot of pressure, and ALOT of vibration. No to mention if you hit a pothole doing 30 this may actually fail. Try running it alittle hotter.

Just so you know i did do a second pass that was the first pass and the second pass i did i increased the wire speed and made a fatter weld i just haven't posted a picture of it yet.
I didnt want to do a single fat weld because i didnt want the metal to get to hot and trow off the caster so i did 2 passes.

I did a second pass on the welds and i think im going to lock the transaxle.

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Close ups of the welds after a second pass. I know its not pretty but it will do
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Locked the mst 206 i welded it on wednesday and put it together today because i welded it at like 6 at night and didnt feel like putting it together and then on thursday we got 4in of snow. And yes i cleaned off the slag first.
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wow, you have much more progress than me. stupid cold weather is keeping me inside.

Ariens YT11 wrote:

wow, you have much more progress than me. stupid cold weather is keeping me inside.

i got lucky and the snow didnt stay around too long so i was able to get some work done. But don't worry you'll get it done.

Craftsman1998 wrote:

Ariens YT11 wrote:

wow, you have much more progress than me. stupid cold weather is keeping me inside.

i got lucky and the snow didnt stay around too long so i was able to get some work done. But don't worry you'll get it done.

LOL, i've got till tuesday with the sub freezing temps here in WY, but after its gonna be in the 40's

Ariens YT11 wrote:

Craftsman1998 wrote:

Ariens YT11 wrote:

wow, you have much more progress than me. stupid cold weather is keeping me inside.

i got lucky and the snow didnt stay around too long so i was able to get some work done. But don't worry you'll get it done.

LOL, i've got till tuesday with the sub freezing temps here in WY, but after its gonna be in the 40's

I just noticed something i joined the forum a year and one day after you did lol.