And so it begins! Craftsman LT1000 ---> ATV (we are hoping!)

I much prefer to shop locally, and in person when possible. You never know when you'll find something.

I rather shop locally too.. nothing like the "feely/touchy" when looking for parts.. hahahaha

THIS...


what to do with it...... removing the whole thing will not work since you need them to "keep the space" for the front "axle" and structural strength of that part, I guess... but would cutting them be an option, while keeping the integrity of the front? I would have to take measurements once the front tires are mounted, and see what would happen if I lower/weld the front... I would like to lower it a little, but keep the pivoting on it... any simple ways to do this, that do not require welding?? lol


and also... THIS....


nothing that a crap ton of penetrating oil wouldnt take care of, right? I saw quite a variety of pulleys yesterday at TSC... I saw they had the keyways in different sizes, but they all had the "bolt" on them... thoughts on this, please?

Bolt as in Allen screw?  Yeah penetrating oil could help, but I cut or hole-saw them and then spray the penetrating oil then get a small puller and pull them off.  WARNING! Do not hammer the end of the input shaft and pull up on the pully, you WILL end up mushrooming the input shaft and the pully will not come off. Just saying...
 
But Anyway nice build.

there is only so much PB blaster can do... i think that might be too far gone. you might be better off with a cut-off wheel, sharp chisel and a good hammer.. might end up cutting it off

great input, as always!

I was very surprised to see this kind of rust on it, since EVERYTHING else on the mower has pretty much no rust at all... I just dont understand how this transmission pulley got so rusty.... not even the deck pulleys or anything underneath!

I am just curious about it... I will do the pulley swap back there eventually... I just want to make sure I can get the right belt for it... thinking ahead, I guess... I have this, I am also looking at exhaust... welding a pipe to the outlet of the stock muffler just to run it to the back, cutting those deck brackets on the picture above, and the gas pedal...

thanks guys! hope its a productive weekend, if youre working on something!

Renzo24441 wrote:

 hope its a productive weekend, if youre working on something!

yeah, working on my neighbors JD 3320. service all the fluids and start mounting the snowblower

Well *****.... Lug bolt pattern is 4.5"..... I'm ready to shoot somebody.... Wtfffff !!!!

I hope this galvanized hubs are easy to drill!!!! Sonofabbbb

Renzo24441 wrote:

great input, as always!

I was very surprised to see this kind of rust on it, since EVERYTHING else on the mower has pretty much no rust at all...  I just dont understand how this transmission pulley got so rusty.... not even the deck pulleys or anything underneath!  

I am just curious about it... I will do the pulley swap back there eventually... I just want to make sure I can get the right belt for it...  thinking ahead, I guess...  I have this, I am also looking at exhaust... welding a pipe to the outlet of the stock muffler just to run it to the back, cutting those deck brackets on the picture above, and the gas pedal...

thanks guys!  hope its a productive weekend, if youre working on something!

 
 
Best way to prevent the rust on the pully is to take the pully off like twice a year and grease it nice and good then put it back on.

Renzo24441 wrote:

Well *****.... Lug bolt pattern is 4.5"..... I'm ready to shoot somebody.... Wtfffff !!!!

I hope this galvanized hubs are easy to drill!!!!  Sonofabbbb

they shouldnt be too bad. if you weld it, dont breath the smoke, and if it smokes as you drill it, dont breathe it... i done that once, stick welding.. it screwed me up for about 3 weeks. it sucked

Thanks, Willis!

Yeah I've seen all the warnings for galvanized welding... I'm not doing that... Hopefully they won't smoke while being drilled, but just in case I'm doing it in the backyard, totally in the open..

Thanks man!

Yep. No way they fit... So...

How the heck do you get these studs off the hubs???

You drive them out the back. Thread a nut on so it's almost flush with the tip of the stud, and hit it.

BFH!!!

   

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

BFH!!!

   

ahh, nothing like the BFH. in my shop class, we have the BFH (big f'n hammer) the BFM (big f'n mallet) and the GFH (giant f'n hammer [sledge hammer])

Thank you Doc, Red, Willis.... the BFH worked beautifully!



All of them out... i think I made them as centered as I possibly could...



and now all drilled out... just need to widen the holes, and off to Ace to get the bolts and nuts!



I will just need to grind down possibly an 1/8" of the back of the hubs, so the clip covers the washers and holds the whole assembly in place!

Thank you all for brainstorming with me on this so far!

make sure you get grade 8 bolts.. i recommend ny-lock nuts too

yep.. locking nuts.. thats what I got for the rear... will get the same size for the fronts....

Those hubs are freaking pro looking! Nice job!

that's cause they are, TBP!! lol... ordered them from BMI, but the lug configuration I have, SOMEHOW is not available anywhere I have looked...

from center to center of lug hole on the wheel, it is 4 3/8" or so... so I ordered these from them, and replacement bearings, since the bearings that came with them were too small.. it was a 5/8" bore, and I needed 3/4"....

so... now I only need to widen the holes a bit more, get the bolts and nuts, and it should be a roller...

even though I do need to grind down the back of the hubs, because there wont be enough space for the e clip to click in place to hold the front wheels.... thats gonna be a pain in the @$$.... hopefully this weekend, I will be done with it, so we can take it rolling... and see how it does...

pulleys, gas pedal, paint, all of that comes in the spring... right now I will just do wiring for lights, front and back... since we live in town...

Now you have dual bolt pattern hubs... great if you eventually change rims

lol well hopefully I wont have to change rims any time soon!!

but... after talking with Doc and Red on options to either grind down the hub (it was too long) or removing the cup on the spindles, I went with cutting that s#!t out of it.. luckily Ace had the shaft collars I needed, so......

HERE IT IS!!



got these lights from a friend of mine....



I tried using some LEDs I have for the tail lights, but to my amazement, the voltage I was getting from the headlights was 0.2v at full throttle... so they never worked... replaced them with a regular incandescent bulb, and worked fine... so for the driving lights, Im gonna have to connect them directly to the battery to get the 12v for LED driving lights...

anybody has messed around with the wiring on these? any spot I could get constant 12v power after the engine is running?

thanks guys!

hope you like the finished FOR NOW project...

Sweet it looks like it sits nice and level too.  NOW PAINT IT, its a shame to see everything you have worked for RUST (just saying).

exactly!

luckily, somehow, there is no rust whatsoever on this tractor! the plan (forced by the weather), however, is to wait until spring is here to paint it... red, and the floorboard area sprayed with truck bedliner, as well as the underside of the rear fenders and all that. I will also cover the front bumper with the same bedliner.

I have a piece of aluminum to make something to cover the dash... I just wish there was a place where I can find some cheap gauges.. I will reuse the AMP one, but will have to do some more searching for something else, if theres anything..

The lighting circuit on those engines is typically 12v AC... it won't read properly on a meter set for DC and simple LEDs are unable to light with it.
Thankfully LEDs don't pull much juice, so unless you go overboard on the lighting, hooking to the battery should be fine.

Very cool that its on all 4, now enjoy it! I think you and your son will have a ball with this thing...  

TRB, it is... it just surprised me that the voltage to the front lights was so low... I will take another reading and verify it, with both AC and DC...

ill check voltage on the solenoid with and without the tractor running, and see if theres a difference, and may pull power for LED driving lights from there...

We are supposed to bring it to my inlaws farm, and will let him drive around the fields... will get some video, hopefully!

now, for the spring, plans are just to make it a little faster with pulleys, probably get a kill switch, paint, and should be good to go!