Yard King street rig

Hey guys, I've got a new toy.
my new toy is a Yard King/Murray GT.
it has a 18HP Opposed twin, 820 and Big F'in Tires

the to do list.
#1 get it running.
#2 new front 16-18 front tires
#3 new 12" car tires on rear
#4 driving lights
#5 good headlights
#6 tail lights/blinkers
#7 sub frame Not doing this.
#8 redo steering
#9 trans gears to speed it up
#10 45-55mph road machine
#11 get OHV (Off-Highway Vehicle) registerd
#12 motorcycle license and insurance.

Pictures and videos to come.

I'd suggest locking the axle and putting a go kart brake rotor on the axle shaft. Stock brakes are no where near good for those speeds.

So should look into something similer to what the mowrons got then?

Ariens YT11 wrote:

So should look into something similer to what the mowrons got then?

Yea, BMI disk and mechanical caliper, and a caliper holder. Way safer!

well the thing I plan on doing is a few years away so it can wait.

can you put pics of it

I'm with Red. Seems that brakes are about the last thing anybody thinks of when they build for speed- till they get hurt. Skip the getting hurt part and remember that what goes up, must go down (so to speak). If it can go fast, it must be able to slow fast. Go kart brakes a re generally a good choice.

true, true.

on the pics I have some but my phone isn't cooperating.

All right guys I know its not alot right now, my gmail and my phone are being @$$'s ATM and will not sync.

But here is my 1994 lawn chief/Murray GT.
"

Well guys I have progress.
I have removed the rear fenders, then installed them on the front axle for fenders.
I have removed the 820 to service it.
Gonna be putting a 5.5" pulley on the motor and a 7" on the 820 just to give it a small speed boost.

Could be because of the KILLER sound system on my laptop (LMAO), but I don't think your engine sounds bad at all.

As for that Kohler.... Pity. You'll have to get the crank machined (or replaced) if there's any damage on the rod journal- and it looks like there is. As far as the cylinder wall- If it's well below the ring travel area, you might just get away with it. Grab a die grinder and dress teh edges of the broken part, so that it doesn't score the piston skirt.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Could be because of the KILLER sound system on my laptop (LMAO), but I don't think your engine sounds bad at all.

As for that Kohler.... Pity. You'll have to get the crank machined (or replaced) if there's any damage on the rod journal- and it looks like there is. As far as the cylinder wall- If it's well below the ring travel area, you might just get away with it. Grab a die grinder and dress teh edges of the broken part, so that it doesn't score the piston skirt.

what you see on the crank is left over rod. my dad is gonna take some emery cloth and clean it up and smooth. then he was just gonna get a diff, C/R and piston.

All right guys I am updating this thread because its to the tractor I am using on the 250 mile trip, the tractor is currently sitting with the front end apart so i can replace the spindle bushings and wheel bearings to brass and rollor bearings. the front end is mostly gonna be stock, I might do a custom front end on it but that will tell in the future.
the things needed right now.

1. Hood nose fixed
2. bumpers
3. finish exhaust
4. winch.

I am wondering if I could put two batteries in series on this to have some more juice on the system for running lights when I am on the road, winch on trails and ect, ?

Lights are gonna be the last on my list for now since I need a break disk for a 820 that I can retro fit a drum break onto. (Note. my 820 never came with one.) so I can stop when at speed.

I also have had the idea of moounting the Vari-Drive off my MTD onto the Murray so I can achive the speed needed to travel on the road. what are your thoughts on this?

You want the two batteries in PARALLEL, not series. Positive to Positive, Neg to Neg.

Ive done this on mine, and its plenty of amps for what I'm running.

However, you'll need to see if your motor is putting out enough amps to keep those batteries charged.

Doc can probably tell you how to check for that, and possibly how to get more amps out of the motor if it doesn't.

Know what that is a valid point, the batt's need to be in parallel not series and if the charging system won't work enough I can put a car alternator under the hood some were.

I know this might be a long one with lots of talking but its a update.
and a Update on the trip route.

This video is of my Home made muffler on my opposed twin motor.



The muffer is just a piece of 4" exhaust pipe with some baffles added to it that are just some sheet metal. Tell me what you think.

Hey guys who has tried putting a electric blower on there opposed? (Other than Mow Bandit) and sucsesfully gotten it to work?

I am in the proces of doing this myself and its all mounted and ready to rock. I just need to get more supplys.

The video probably doesnt do the exhaust justice... sounds good.

Thanks!

Well I got news, this is not going to be the trator for the trip, the Poulan Rally tractor is gonna get a speed boost and the 820.

Nice muffler, looks like a mini car muffler almost.

looks alot like the muffler i made for my craftsman, sounds like it too, minus the fact you have a twin lol

jamcco wrote:

looks alot like the muffler i made for my craftsman, sounds like it too, minus the fact you have a twin lol

Thanks, I worked hard on getting the baffles just right inside the muffer part