Question about War Machine, need opinions

After having it up and running for a few days now, off roading, mudding, on road etc... I just don't like how the tractor handles. Sure, it turns nice for still having mostly stock steering, quite stable considering the increased height - but it's not how I pictured it being. I am thinking of lowering it down and putting some decent standard sized tires on front, leaving the knobbies out back and eliminating it's ability to ride rough trails. Make it an off-road capable speed mower instead. Essentially, I'd do the axle flip front and rear, and adjust as needed for a flat stance if not a slight forward rake.

What i would like to know is, if you all think I should, or that I should simply leave it alone and enjoy it... or do all this to my project from a year ago that's similarly powered and geared?

which project are you happier with?, i know it sounds like a odd question, but the one that you are the least happy with is the one you should change
, or thats my opinion

Do keep in mind that flipping the frontend results in HORRIBLE steering geometry. The KPI angle ends up completely backwards, which in turn mangles the scrub radius. It's a lot more work, but if you want to lower the frontend properly, you'll have to re-engineer it.

Well, ok then. I think the big issue is the geometry of the front steering anyway, which can be seen in one of the videos on youtube. Nothing bent or otherwise out of whack and I get both this \ / (bear with me here) and...

) ( this. toe in and camber are way off with how it is now. None of my front ends have a straight angle to the spindles (except one I got rid of before starting the project - doh!) and it makes for some really quick steering. more stable than I would imagine but it pretty much scrubs the tires no matter what. I never noticed it with smaller tires on. And the thing is, the tires and wheels that are there now are not the chosen set when truly finished. 31x10.50's are.

I dunno, I'll leave it as is for now, work on that golf cart until I run out of materials... then resurrect last years project in some fashion.

Thanks guys...

As far as handling goes, in my opinion anyway, you should shoot for 0 degree camber, 10 degree caster (top of spindle tilted toward back of tractor), and 0 degree toe. All of our tractors are set up that way and they handle great at any speed.

That's pretty close to the baseline numbers I tend to start with. 10-12* caster, 8-10* KPI, little or no camber, maybe a degree of toe-in and carefully measured Ackermann.

Our tractors have terrible KPI... manually pushing them around into the garage and otherwise: once you turn the wheels it becomes really hard to push.

Looking at the MULE here, I see that the KPI angle isn't that far off, but the scrub radius is pretty brutal because of how far out from the kingpin the contact patch is. Flipping the assembly would just make a total mockery of it.