New member from Michigan

Most can be shifted on the go. The GT trans don’t like it though. That would be the Sears suburban and craftsman with the roper 633, anything with a peerless 2300, all the wheel horse 8 speeds (do they have a 6 speed too?), and the cub cadet. Those are the common ones.

Generally, vertical input transaxles can shift on the go, side inputs can’t

That is just perfect to hear. I'm going to be getting a wheel horse b165 with a peerless 801 in it. I was thinking of either putting a pretty tough torque converter on it or changing the pulley swap ratio to pretty extreme and separating the brake and clutch to their own pedals. I'm thinking in theory it would have to start out in a lower gear and I could just shift up to a higher gear like a car. And if I try to start out in a higher gear it would stall on me.

I'll try this route first and if that doesn't work I can just get a torque converter and mix that into the system somehow.

Extreme pulley swaps work, but too small in the rear and you get a lot of belt slip. Also your trans input bearings will not like you for it

I disagree, I’ve ran 633 peerless 2300 and I have over a decade of driving wheel horse uni drive. All can be shifted at speed. It’s not that hard, push in the clutch and shift firmly it will go in no problem. Think about it. All heavy duty trucks are non syncro tranny and there are millions of them going down the road. If your having trouble shifting a garden tractor at speed it’s probably because your clutch isn’t releasing right

I didn't realize that big trucks have non synchronized transmission. That's really interesting. I'll have to make sure when I open that case to lock the rear differential everything's real lubed up nice. I hope this is one of those differentials that takes oil and not just Grease.

Fair enough @Creepycrawler, it just takes a little more practice and a well adjusted clutch like you said

Perfect.
Spauldingbid.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?spaulding1/22

And here's my new project, picking it up tomorrow.

Link didn’t work, can you share a couple pics?

personally when it comes to pulley swaps i stick close to a 1 to 1 ratio, my murray had 6in pulleys f&r and when i swapped over to my ford yt16 i run a 6 on back with a 5 on front, this lets me run the stock length belt, but still gives me decent speed, my brothers jd is slightly over driven with a 5 1/2 front and 5 rear, @murphyslaw i'm pretty sure the 801s are all the same internally, i just recently locked mine, they have a carrier in the diff and mine was super easy to lock, but pay attention to the spider gear shaft, it has a roll pin on one side you have to knock out with a punch in order for it to slide out, also it's not hard to convert to oil, to my knowledge the 801s all had grease, but to convert to oil you just need to run a bead of rtv around the case and be sure your brake shaft seal in good, it shouldn't have axle seals, instead it should have sealed bearings, i recommend removing the inner seal on these so oil can get in and lube them, or clean them and repack them then put the seal back in

@Creepycrawler


This is the only picture I have of it. Just unloaded it off the trailer today and it's in the barn.

@darkside0914
Thank you for the information about the peerless transmission that's going to be very useful when I get it opened up. Nervous about locking it. I see everywhere that you guys say it's easy but I watched a video of one getting locked and it looked pretty difficult. I didn't think about having the pulleys being different sizes like that affecting the belt size. That's a good point. I'll have to play around with different sizes and see what fits best.

Take a piece of rope about the right diameter belt you plan to run (1/2” or 5/8”) and route the rope how you want the belt to go. That way you can make sure the belt won’t hit anything too. Then tie the rope as tight as you can and take the tied rope to TSC or rural king, measure it, and that will get you very close to the one you need.

1/2 inch belts are cheaper and last ok, 5/8 lasts a little longer and grips slightly better but they’re more expensive and you may run into fitment issues due to the larger size. I run a half inch belt with pulleys made for a 5/8 belt. The 1/2 inch belt will ride deeper in the groove and has less chance of falling off when you hit the clutch. You’ll still likely need belt keepers on the clutch and idlers at least