I used the deck lift adjustment shaft, welded a new, shorter handle to it. Welded a tab to it and attached the tab to the shifter arm on the transmission with a cut to length tie rod. Pretty simple really. I'll try to remember to take pics later, but right now the tractor is loaded in the truck for our Haspin trip!
Note: Stretch actually did the welding because I suck at it.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
Age : 47 Join date : 2012-04-05 Posts : 959 Location : Mansfield, Ohio
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Fri May 31, 2013 8:36 am
If you still have the stock deck handle, you can use it. You can even weld up the notches, then cut a new notch where neutral is, so it locks in neutral. We did this to one tractor.
A old steering tie rod works well, to go between transmission and deck handle. We've done 5 of them now, once you figure it out, not hard.
Here ya go, fearless did a good video on it.
_______________________________________________ Head Mowron of the Mowercycle gang...
If you wouldn't mind could you go a little more in depth as to how you reinforced/modified you steering boxes I would like to do something similar.
Stretch44875 Administrator
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Age : 47 Join date : 2012-04-05 Posts : 959 Location : Mansfield, Ohio
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Sat Jul 06, 2013 8:50 am
Post 3, pic one, shows a pic of a modified gear box, and a empty steering box.
Where the shaft goes sideways through the box, we drilled out to 1in, then welded in 1in OD x 3/4 ID bushings. Installed a lock collar against the large gear to tighten it against the small gear. Welded a short piece of 3/8's rod across the gap to keep it from spreading apart. Drilled and installed grease zerks on the new bushings.
Later on we welded the large gear to the shaft, keyways were getting loose on them.
_______________________________________________ Head Mowron of the Mowercycle gang...
Thanks man, it took us a long time to solve all (or most anyways) of the breakage problems. They are very reliable compared to the ones we used to run, where we would work on them for 2 or 3 hours for every hour of play.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
we would work on them for 2 or 3 hours for every hour of play.
That's a nasty work-to-play ratio. I'm glad you've got the major bugs hammered out now.
I've finally found the time to read through this thread completely. I think you've done a fantastic job of putting these machines together and making them work for you. I particularly like the alternative of swapping in a live axle instead of welding the diff. What's not there, can't fail.
I also appreciate the methods you used to address the shortcomings in the factory stock steering system. Guaranteed to take the ambiguity out of it, and it'll go where you point it.
Thanks for the props, you got some pretty nice work also.
Ratio was closer to 1 to 1 on the work/play, but still way more than we wanted. Not counting build time, new ones are much better. 5 tractors were ran 15-20 hours during haspin, and we had about 5 hours of repair time. Most of that was blown engine, and repairing a whoops inside of a couple transmissions. Also about 8 hours of work getting ready. So 75-100 hours of runtime to 13 hours of work. Not perfect, but getting much better.
_______________________________________________ Head Mowron of the Mowercycle gang...
Age : 47 Join date : 2012-04-23 Posts : 1085 Location : Galion, OH
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:32 am
Some have asked about the mods to improve the craftsman steering box. I took the pic in the thread and added some pointers. I goofed up on the pic, the lock collar is still there actually, the weld is on the other side of that gear. Oops.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
Age : 21 Join date : 2013-04-08 Posts : 906 Location : Central Pa
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:10 am
So I see that you guys lowered them I can understand how you lowered the front, but how did you lower the back? Was it just by smaller rear tires?
TheRainbowBoxer Moderator
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Age : 47 Join date : 2012-04-23 Posts : 1085 Location : Galion, OH
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:55 am
We notched the rear fender piece so it would sit down over the frame, removed the framework that holds the seat up higher, and bolted the seat assembly right to the frame.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
LOL okay derp on my fault, I thought you raised the trans up into the frame to make it sit lower. LOL
GenevaCustoms Frequent Poster
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Age : 25 Join date : 2013-09-24 Posts : 315 Location : Florida
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:30 am
I really like the brake idea is it just a floating rotor? help in place by the caliper? Or it is welded to the axle or by a set screw or something.. Just curious
TheRainbowBoxer Moderator
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Age : 47 Join date : 2012-04-23 Posts : 1085 Location : Galion, OH
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:38 am
The rotor is held in place by lock collars. The caliper floats on rails welded to the tractor.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
It took us years to make them relatively dependable. Now I can romp the crap out of it, jump it, race it, run it into things, etc, and it just keeps going.
_______________________________________________ Proud member of the Mower Cycle Gang... aka the "Mowrons!"
My build (Chaos is one of 3 built like this) Chaos Build
Subject: Re: Craftsman 10/38 11/38 12/38 builds Sun May 04, 2014 6:17 pm
I see how you notch the rear fenders and mount them directly to the channel frame but how is the seat mounted to the fenders? Does it just flap and not have the rear springs anymore? is the rear even held down?