Well- I just wrapped up that brake upgrade I been threatening to do for a looong time. I had to sleeve the axle shaft and add a 1/4" keyway, as the Airheart 6" rotor has a 1" bore. No biggy, I already had to do that on both sides to adapt the 1" bore wheel hubs. I had to screw around with spacing a lot, as there's just barely enough room in there for it. The Airheart mechanical caliper is as big as it can possibly be, and still work in there.
I'm still fine tuning the linkage and adjustments, but I can lock them up at full speed on hardpack now... YAY!
Nice doc! have you had a chance to try your new tires in the mud yet?
I like them a LOT! After doing the pulley swap, they self-clean pretty decently. I DID get stuck the other day and had to make use of the winch, but it was in the thickest, stickiest stuff imaginable. Got the loader stuck in the same stuff, with those huge ag's, so I don't feel bad at all...
Back to it- these are certainly better than the Scorpions, and a good choice for anyone with 8" rims that doesn't wish to break the bank.
Working up a skid plate for MULE. After running around in circles trying to find a big enough peice of steel plate, I had an epiphany... All these damn cutting decks just going to scrap! So- I picked a good thick one with a nice profile, and cut a 13" wide chunk out, right up the middle. Then I drew a line across it, scribed it with my grinder, and bent it for forward clearance. Nice material. It's at least 3/16" thick and still quite rigid even after being cut up!
Im not sure what your opinion of "locked" transaxles are, but back when we used to run smaller tractors we started using 3/4 round stock and running it completely through the transaxle, then cutting the pin that the spiders that engage the bull gear in half and cut 13/16 out of the middle then mocking it all up and welding them on so that they transferred the power from the bull gear to the new axle. then you get the heavyest washers you can find, grind all the galvinizing off and weld them to either side of the drive pin, and I dont mean a couple welds I mean weld, weld and weld some more. the extra 1/16 you take of the drive pin allows for a little mis-alignment. the ones I did I used our mill to put keyways back in the new axle, but a couple people I used to ride with just welded the axle to the wheels. its redneck, but it cuts way down on case breakage because the one piece axle helps hold the case together, where the two piece try and snap it when you get to bouncing.
Doc Sprocket Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:07 pm wrote:
After much deliberation, I've decided to lock this transaxle. Now- I hate the fact that the diff doesn't use a carrier, so I decided to do something a bit different. I have eliminated the original axles and spider gears. Instead, I am using a 3/4" straight shaft, and welded two lengths of 5/8" shaft to replace the original diff pin to index the bull (ring) gear. I ran out of light before I could finish, and I still have to trip over to Tractor Supply for some 3/4" lock collars to keep the shaft from walking around. But this pic shows the meat of the matter... I hereby dub this the "Doc Locker"....
Maybe it should be called the "CreepyCrawling Doc Locker?
Doc Sprocket Administrator
Age : 48 Join date : 2013-04-21 Posts : 2911 Forum Rep : 20 Location : Ontario Canada
Subject: Re: LawnBoy UTLTV aka MULE Sun May 11, 2014 4:47 pm