TD's John Deere 210 R - "Help I Shrunk my John Deere 210"!

@richie thomas wrote:

@Thunderdivine wrote:

@richie thomas wrote:

i reckon it doesn't match your build style, but that rusty patina would be beautiful on a rat rod style build

Yeah I love that rusted look (but it had to get the rust to stop), and this will be somewhat of a Rat Rod Look in the end I think, Idk yet.
I'll let you decide in the end.   

got resto-mod

Yeah Jay Leno Approved!

Maybe if you have a hammer and a metal block on the backside and straighten out that back lip. Looks a little wavy.

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Maybe if you have a hammer and a metal block on the backside and straighten out that back lip. Looks a little wavy.

It is very wavy, but its untouched original vintage, and I like it   

Hmm. I was thinking about adding a seat spring to mine, like what they got on sears suburbans. I wonder if I can weld it without it deforming

@redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Hmm. I was thinking about adding a seat spring to mine, like what they got on sears suburbans. I wonder if I can weld it without it deforming

Sure you can, do tiny bits at the time.

Do they have the U-bent flat stock spring or a normal spring?

I have s set of those mini strobes. Work great at night, suck in the daytime.

Doug Fackler wrote:

I have s set of those mini strobes. Work great at night, suck in the daytime.

Yeah, still good bang for the buck.

I was wondering why you put the camber in the axle when you already had it in the spindle? Wouldn't it have been easier to make the axle straight and leave the camber in the spindles?

@Lawren Wimberly wrote:

I was wondering why you put the camber in the axle when you already had it in the spindle? Wouldn't it have been easier to make the axle straight and leave the camber in the spindles?

This is to get the Kingpin Inclination at 10 degrees (KIP), so im really at 0* camber. But as you give steering input left or right, you get more and more camber.

If i understood what you asked correctly   
Someone correct me if i described this wrong, but kno what i mean.

Umm i might be mixing up the terms here, tired but yea it add's stability at high speed's  

Right. The kingpin inclination IS the caster and camber. The angle at which the axle is to the horizon is something else entirely. Some guys like to split the difference, but that's up to the designsr's preference. Id on't think it matters that much. The main thing the designer wants is the kingpin to be as close to the center of the tire as possible. This is why cars have deep rims and the steering knuckles are actually inside the rim.

Well we gotta see it as ONE unit.

Easy explained here:

Copied from another page, http://www.mech.uq.edu.au/courses/mech3100-old/steering/s1.htm

FRONT WHEEL GEOMETRY

The above analysis should be of help in getting the kinematics right. One also needs to be careful about the geometry around the wheel itself. The local wheel steering geometry determines how the forces and the moments are transmitted and is an important consideration. The steering axis for the wheel is not vertical but inclined in both longitudinal and cross-sectional planes. This steering axis is traditionally referred to as the kingpin. The castor and the inclination angles associated with the kingpin orientation are defined in the following figure:



As it is seen, the kingpin is tipped outward at the bottom. For passenger cars, typical values for the kingpin inclination angles are 10-15o. You should also note that the kingpin intercepts the ground slightly inside of the wheel contact. The distance is called the "kingpin offset" or "scrub". Such an offset is not only necessary to create space for things like brakes, suspension and steering components; it also adds to the "feel of the road" and reduced static steering efforts.

In the longitudinal plane, the kingpin is intercepts the ground ahead of the wheel axis as shown in the above figure. The associated angle is called the castor angle. Typical values range from 0 to 5o.

So i ended up with:
10* KIP
8-10* Caster
0-1* Camber

Typical settings for gokarts is:
9-12 degrees caster
-2 to -4.5 degrees camber

Your Kingpin in the pic above looks like it has more than 1 degree of camber.

@T-Dub13 wrote:

Typical settings for gokarts is:
9-12 degrees caster
-2 to -4.5 degrees camber

Your Kingpin in the pic above looks like it has more than 1 degree of camber.

-10 kip

-1 on the axle.

Makes sense with the short wheelbase. It still might be hard to turn the steering wheel though. I think that's a good thing for such a fast tractor.   

@T-Dub13 wrote:

Makes sense with the short wheelbase.  It still might be hard to turn the steering wheel though.  I think that's a good thing for such a fast tractor.    

Yeah don't want a sensitive steering at high speed. lol

Man this thing is already catching my attention good work

Dude you should put like a Turbocharger or a Supercharger on it!

@PuppetKicker wrote:

Man this thing is already catching my attention good work

Thank you!