New exhaust

So I finally got around to putting my new exhaust together, and it sounds fairly close to where I would want it.


This is the upper section. Old brigs aluminum intake manifold,
the main down pipe is cut up exhaust off a opposed we have.


This is just the section that was out of frame last shot, goes into the resonater


This is the loose joint of where the down pipe goes into the resonater


How it looks from the rear

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x1dhmboASGN8NEXX9
how she sounds as is

I really like how it brought the pitch of the note down to a nice aggressive thump, It's not complete because i want to make a hanger so all the mechanical stress is not on the aluminium head, and something to hold the resonator in place. other than that im header wrapping as much as I can, Trying to get more after fire and (always accepted) exhaust pops.

Sounds real nice! How well does that shifter extension work?

I like how it sounds, pretty cool. Cool how it comes through the frame too, that's neat.

I like it! It looks cool exiting at the rear of the frame like that

Sweet sounding. Is it as close to the belt as it looks in the rear?

So, had a slight issue after wrapping the manifold lol.  





So... I guess we have learned that header wrap insulates real well.
Also that the temps can get over 1,200 degrees just from a brigs, (tuned super rich)

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Sounds real nice! How well does that shifter extension work?

So the short story goes when I first got the mower I was curious if the stock shift knob thread will accept a normal car shift knob so I whent and got the knob off my 4speed 96 Toyota
Tercel and sure enough it fits. fast forward a good 6 months to December in the junkyard getting car parts when there is a Datsun 240z with a 350 small block in it (dam). So I just grab the shifter extension and knob out of it. so ya they fit standard shift knobs.

MightyRaze wrote:

Sweet sounding.  Is it as close to the belt as it looks in the rear?

Their is about a 1" gap as is. But im going to make supports for the resonator and down pipe, I am really uncomfortable with all the exhaust siting on the Aluminum head.

Caddy_V3 wrote:

So, had a slight issue after wrapping the manifold lol.  





So... I guess we have learned that header wrap insulates real well.
Also that the temps can get over 1,200 degrees just from a brigs, (tuned super rich)

This needs to go in the Fail thread!

Kinda makes sense that it would fail like this.  A lot of heat comes out of that exhaust on these air cooled engines.  You want it to radiate off and not be insulated in.  Thanks for learning the lesson the hard way for all of us here at ATLTF

That is definitely FAIL thread material, haha.

I heard back in the 60's the drag race guys had some aluminum manifolds to save weight. Guess they would burn through sometimes but if everything was set about right they would work. Wrapping a steel pipe I think is ok, but yeah guess it didn't let the aluminum cool itself. Interesting.

Maybe just weld up a connector pipe, or get rid of the flange on your old pipe and go straight to that. I use 1" washers from tractor supply for a flange and then drill the holes for the bolts before welding the pipe to it. Weld a straight piece on there first to get out away from the engine a bit and then you can bolt it to the engine to tack weld up the bends and stuff as you go. Lowes or home depot has 1" electrical conduit 90 degree bends for about $5-6 but they aren't all that tight. Probably be ok for this. Sometimes you gotta bird mouth and weld if your in a tight spot and can't find any sharp bends to use.