[c] [24] Mighty's Marshal

#Buildoff2024

OK, take 2.

My plan is to take this 93 Craftsman GT6000 into an awesome Rally off-road build.

Plan is to strip the deck and deck related parts as well as front attachments.  Go over the Kohler Magnum in it and get it purring like a kitten if possible.  Condition unknown.  The 6 speed transaxle appears to be in good shape as it easily shifts in all gears as well as hi/lo.  Locking will be done.  I may go a new route and NOT paint this one except for the frame.  Various mods, beefing, and upgrades will happen!

Without further ado...

The Marshal.





-Approval Brianator 12-29-23

[mod]Welcome back to the 2024 Build Off! Lol.[/mod]

You can take that as approval on my part, nice tractor to start off with @MightyRaze!

Thanks @Brianator. Funny thing. I think this tractor right now feels heavier than the Dirty Rat. Even pulled different!

Interesting.  Was going through the pix, and Marshal was built two months after the GT6000 that is sitting at my parents.

The grill-less one at my parents is April 27, 1993 build date, Marshal is June 15, 1993.

I wonder if I can convert the steering to a bell crank style of the horizontal engines, or will the vertical pulley get in the way since the engine sits a couple inches lower in the frame.  Not a fan of the turn one spindle with a solid tie-rod to the other spindle.  Maybe I can "improve it".

MightyRaze wrote:

Thanks @Brianator.  Funny thing.  I think this tractor right now feels heavier than the Dirty Rat.  Even pulled different!

According to tractordata, TDR in it's stock form was around 688lbs and Marshal is around 743lbs.  I was shocked.

MightyRaze wrote:

 Not a fan of the turn one spindle with a solid tie-rod to the other spindle.  Maybe I can "improve it".

I wouldn't be afraid of that setup. It's used on everything from lawn mowers, old school cars and OTR heavy duty diesel trucks. The key thing with any steering system is taking your time to get the geometry just right.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

 Not a fan of the turn one spindle with a solid tie-rod to the other spindle.  Maybe I can "improve it".

I wouldn't be afraid of that setup.  It's used on everything from lawn mowers, old school cars and OTR heavy duty diesel trucks.  The key thing with any steering system is taking your time to get the geometry just right.

True.  When I move the front axle forward the few inches like I do on craftsmans, I'll probably convert the ball joints to heims.  I see someone already has some ethnic engineering on the drag link.

The drag link setup like these craftsmans have is like the worst setup possible for steering. As you improve the steering geometry you add bump steer. The GT6K is 100% getting a bellcrank setup in the future. Mutt will as well if i can't get this rack and pinion steering to act the way I want it to.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

The drag link setup like these craftsmans have is like the worst setup possible for steering. As you improve the steering geometry you add bump steer. The GT6K is 100% getting a bellcrank setup in the future. Mutt will as well if i can't get this rack and pinion steering to act the way I want it to.

I've been messing with the one at my parents for months and still not quite right.

As of right now, the M18 is a non-runner.  Starter is frozen hard.  Hated to, looks like the M18 will get bench tested and not tractor tested.  The engine is crucial, but not crucial for modding the rest of the tractor.

That sucks, they're great engines and I'd love to own one eventually! The scrapyard near me has a parts one if you need any bits from it for cheap. It's a M18S spec#24687

MightyRaze wrote:

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

The drag link setup like these craftsmans have is like the worst setup possible for steering. As you improve the steering geometry you add bump steer. The GT6K is 100% getting a bellcrank setup in the future. Mutt will as well if i can't get this rack and pinion steering to act the way I want it to.

I've been messing with the one at my parents for months and still not quite right.

Another thing this style of steering does and the axle wants to pivot front and back in a manner it should not due to the stresses on the one side.  Bellcrank I feel eliminates that stress since it does the same actions to both sides at the same time.  I really hope I can get that plate on the newer tractor.  Unfortunately I think I scrapped that from the Green Machine or used it for something else as I do not know where it went off the top of my head.  I do have the bell crank from it.  I'll probably use the one from the redneck tractor if I cannot find it.

EDIT:  I remember, I used it to put the rack and pinion on Green Machine.  So it is back on the tractor it came off.

Updates!

So this is where is sits today.  



Suppose to be pretty cold for the next few weeks, so I am trying to get it broke down as quick as I can.  Going to need some stuff for rebuilding.  Hoping to roll it out for a quick cleaning.  Looks like the left rear seal does leak in the trans.  Something to look at when I break it apart for locking.  Thinking of taking the redneck trans and locking it and throwing that in.  Not sure at this time.

Also, GREAT NEWS!...  

I was able to clean up and fix the starter.  Shot some carb clean in it and VROOM!

ITS A RUNNER!

@MightyRaze I wonder if you could make a beefy bell crank from a minibike jack shaft, and a piece of 3/8” thick plate.

Hmm... It would appear the axle hanger is also the engine mount.

Engine is off the frame.  If nice enough tomorrow, I will wash it and see about tightening that oil drain as well as drain the oil.  Once clean, I'll button all the tins back up.  Some of the bolts snapped in the block unfortunately on removal.  I have enough that it should not matter.

Frame is power washed.  I'm still going to look into the front axle mount swap.  I think the engine shaft is long enough to go ahead and raise the engine an inch for the other steering package.  I may have some going back and forth for that.



My plan is to moose knuckle the transaxle.  I have an extra diff gear coming.
https://www.atltf.com/t4148-locking-a-roper-633-or-sears-high-low-no-welder-moose-knuckle-method

While pressure washing, I saw some concern on the transaxle case.  I'm pretty sure it is casting marks, but I will double check the inside when I am in there on these "cracks?" "Cast marks?"





I also noticed the brake band material has come loose.  I'll see if it is repairable or new material will be needed.   Not sure you saw right away on the last pic, the drain plug looks glued in.  Not happy about that.

That is all for today.

Those "cracks" are scary right?! Remember I had the same concern on the 16hp front plate on the Mud Duck? (Link takes you the the specific post)

MightyRaze wrote:

Those "fractures" could just be casting marks.  If they were fractures, I'd think they would be weeping.

No weeping and the engine has held together fine so I guess the panic is over! Lol. Couldn't hurt to sand them down and have a closer look though.

Those are just mold lines mighty. Seems most 820 cases are full of them. Some look like really convincing hairline cracks around parts of the case that receive a lot of stress. My first 820 had a hairline crack on the bottom of the differential. It weeped oil. Never really spread though.

I remember mr.moo polished the mold lines on his oppy rods on his GTR build. Supposed to reduce stress risers on the surface of the material.

Not too much at this time other than the engine starting to button back together.  Not sure where I am going to start.  Transaxle or front axle.  Knowing me, I'll probably do both at the same time.  But really, probably the front axle.  I'm dragging feet a little bit due to the colder weather.

Here is some sweet kohler MV18S



I need a new vent tube, and possibly a fuel pump rebuild.  This one might be OK.  I had to do some cleanup as well as fix the valves.  Again, just like the wheel horse someone has been in it and flipped one of the valves in the pump.

The roper front axle is on the craftsman.  Looks just like the other craftsman GT18 and Roper to bolt right up.  Even in the forward location.  Just 2 holes needed as always.  The forward move on the axle is 5 inches forward.  That should give some stability.  Right now, not finalized but mocked up in the final location.  Just need to drop the roper stamped axle and install the craftsman cast iron axle.  It looks to be MUCH beefier.





That may be as far as I get today.  It's cold outside 37F and the garage door was open for an extended time.  I really should look into a garage heater.

@MightyRaze If you're looking for a good heater here's the one I use and it's amazing https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Corporation-MH18B-Portable/dp/B07Q82MG8S]

That a 2 canister Buddy heater?  Didn't realize they had those.  Super portable!

I was considering a 1 canister one I had saw at the store for $80.  I also have considered, if I can find one of those Dearborn DRC-12 propane heaters in good shape and not $$$.  I have a tap in my garage I made when I ran pipe for propane fireplace logs in the house.

I'll keep that in mind.  Right now I have a couple little electric heaters when the going is rough.  The Big Buddy is sure tempting.

Realized I misspelled Marshal...  LOL fixed in the title.

@MightyRaze It'll also run off of a 5 gallon propane tank