"Dinky" (Crafstman 917.254650)

have not been posting dinky videos here, lets fix that.

after all that i deceided that this tractor is just to much tractor for a single, its heavy and geard up, i need torqe.
so i added my 18hp full pressure freebi oppy to it this time, but the motor ran HORRIBLE. turned out sheard keystock... so i welded er on.(are you surprised?)
there will be videos on this to come soon, i just have been having a solid moth of life stuff getting in the way of me taking care of internet things like face book, youtube, email, even keeping contact with family members.

with this motor im trying something new for a throttle setup and i got epoxy curing for this right now.
im going to try and adjust the gov so it will not pull the throttle at all when the motors at 0rpm and throttle is all the way down. because i need my ENG breaks.

I dont know if any one has tried something like this. but i think its gonna work beautifully. and if i have issuers i bet ile have them knocked out faster than a thing thats fast.

this throttle settup worked just as good in real life as it did in my head. i think i need to get the ford ran up like this next, i have only had a few test drives, but this is a game changer.
the way i have it adjusted below about 15% throttle the gov can not pull enough to make the RPMS go up, so i can still stall out and use my ENG breaks like ungovernd, and full throttle sounds alittle low, but the lever in the above 15% range maintains RPM's from neutral to in 3rd gear cruising.

from the pedal, you cant feel the slightest difference. and if the hand throttle is all the way down, it is just as touchy as my last setup, move the pedal a hair it reves a hair. pedal to the metal is wide open throttle. just like on my throttle setup with the 19hp.





now sadly dinky just got put out of commission same day. went dumpster diving with friend, main jet started acting like something clogged it, and he tried using the govern to test drive when we got it running agin, and he was right behind me, and tryied starting in 2nd gear.

he cluch dumped and could not make sharp enough turn, he slammed in to the mud trains rear right tire so hard that sparks were flying out from under dinky and it staleld.

what happend was the left front wheel hit so hard it crumpled the frame, and bent the left side of the front axle, the tie rod got smashed in to the pull start pully. on top of that, lost a head gasket on right cylinder. we never even made it to the gas station.

i can fix everything with what i have, its just gonna take some effort.

so chases machine has been getting alot of work done to it and its fining its own path in life.. this weekend it earned its name, as chase was carving DRIFTEY on the hood. because after welding the hell out of its diff it would blow gravel donuts until you could just see lights spinning. but if you cought traction it would roll hard. we have been working to fix that.

You tellin' me you guys already ruined that hood? lol.

the most recent picture is after it roled, dinky's hood has been threw lots of flips and rolls as well. if you got a welder all is well.

Couple of dents here and there just adds character.

I know, but welders don't weld plastic. I figured that last pic was before it rolled since it was still in good condition. Didn't expect that hood to survive a roll with any type force.

Murraymountain wrote:

I know, but welders don't weld plastic. I figured that last pic was before it rolled since it was still in good condition. Didn't expect that hood to survive a roll with any type force.

the only part of the hood thats plastic is the grill, witch is made of a strong flexible plastic. like me and my dad had a head on collison with dinky and the JD, dinkys hood did not look any worse, the JD hood had a big chunk break off the front.

dinky plastic front looks so bad from people wrecking it in to the mud train on the trails, more than 1 friend has done it more than once. and more than once that plastic grill gets cought in the tread of my 35's and i get hit in the back with the tractor because it gets picked up by the hood.

the weak point is were the rod it hinges on is welded to the flat metal front of the hood. its weak even with bracing because of tight space and harsh angles and thin metal.

RockeyDA wrote:

Murraymountain wrote:

I know, but welders don't weld plastic. I figured that last pic was before it rolled since it was still in good condition. Didn't expect that hood to survive a roll with any type force.

the only part of the hood thats plastic is the grill, witch is made of a strong flexible plastic. like me and my dad had a head on collison with dinky and the JD, dinkys hood did not look any worse, the JD hood had a big chunk break off the front.

dinky plastic front looks so bad from people wrecking it in to the mud train on the trails, more than 1 friend has done it more than once. and more than once that plastic grill gets cought in the tread of my 35's and i get hit in the back with the tractor because it gets picked up by the hood.

the weak point is were the rod it hinges on is welded to the flat metal front of the hood. its weak even with bracing because of tight space and harsh angles and thin metal.

Not to jack the thread, but I know it's only the grille. I always thought those (Those, as in that particular type hood) hoods were pretty strong. I know JD hoods and LT1000 hoods are absolutely trash too. I just thought since CQ was able to obliterate his, I assumed they weren't as strong as I thought... His musta been weather beaten or something...

dont know how thats jacking the thread, seems on topic and relatable. not like your were talking about your ant's pick up trucks moldy glove box sandwich.

so last trail ride dinky went on i had a wheel bearing blow out, then an idler bearing. since that happend i switched dinky to all seald bearing idlers. i aint drove dinky to crazy since i have done that, but it is QUIET, i can barely hear the difference when i put it in gear while in neutral.

i also need to get more nuts and bolts for belt guieds. when my idler failed the bet started twisting around and it blew 2 of my 3 font belt guide bolts and there welded on nuts right off the tractor.

VIDEO UPDATE TIME.



still have not got dinky new belt guides, but have been driving dinky, the new idelrs are so quiet.
probably the last video im posting on my friends tractor. if we can find the parts for cheep to free, i got crazy plans for it. so far its got 7 days of being worked on, 6 from this video.

UPDATE: dinky's JB weld tire bead failed... slime could not get it to re seat to damaged rim. gonna add more JB weld

Chaces Drifty has had a failer in its Footie!
was ilding in 6th gear then it came to a sudden stop and stalled, started it, tried to put it in 6th from idle, stalled agin, tried to put it in first from idle, there was a clunck and it drove without issue, stopped to inspect, oil was drizzling out near bull gear.

drive back to house, 1 more clunck on the way, no hesitation park it, its really running out the oil. could not see were the problem was, but lookd like the case blew out to the side of the bullgear.

theroy, part of a tooth chipped on the bull gear and got cought between the gear and the case and blew out the case. i think some cleaning and JB weld will have it tip top shape till the gear looses a whole tooth. but we will see if thats even the issue.

inspected and reserected. the weleded teeth on the spider gears broke off broke the case and fell out. the gears on the bull gear actually twisted and got pinched with the weld's and got jammed in place, re-locking the rear.
also the snap rings on both axles shreaded

i tore it all apart, cleaned it all, lined inside of trans with masking tape, JB welded outside, turned out great.
i welded those jamed spider gears right to the bull gear and did not touch there teeth this time. welded around the shaft to replace those missing snap rings, got the axle's gears lined up were they were centered and the broken teeth were not contacting the other spider gears.
RTV, fill with oil. butten er up, wait a day. blow doughnuts for a test.

it actually turned out really well this time, in 6th gear on full assembly, i could rotate input shaft(no pully) and make the axle rotate.

also oppys should just be called trans breakers.

update, been driving it arround town instead of dinky to see how things hold up, not well. theres some cracks in the trans near bull gear that leak, and the JB weld is now melting in to a black slime.

SUGGESTIONS?

worst comes to wrost, might have to go to grease, slow it down, and use duct tape or somting. its not a mudder. just needs to keep grese in and dirt out. but slower part would suck.

Sorry if I missed it in the thread, but do you have a vent to let the hot gasses out of the transaxle? Pulley swapped transaxles get really hot and build pressure and it needs to go somewhere.

the spider gears beaking off is what caused the initial damage. i would imagen the keyway gap arround the ruber seal on each end of the axle would be enough of a vent for a slow and small rise in temp.

the thing used to get hot when it was grese filled, not after oil swap. it is a really mild pully swap, 4 1/2" in front 4" in rear. alot slower than dinky

so i looked in to my next cheep mod, seen its road blocks, and came up with a game plan.
so i want one of those little 2" car tachs, there like 10$, but from googling i guess they need the spark twice for rotation to get accurate readings because i guess cars dont get spark like a tractor dose.

well that sounds like a simple fix really, i can just get a push mower magneto coil for the spark, and mount 2 hard drive magnets on opposite end of my main pully. if i use some JB weld they would never fly off, you stick one of those neos on a flat surface and you will break them before prying them off.

now if it worked the opposite, and it needed spark half as often (i dont see how) i could run a pully off my rope start pully and make something to damn complicated for spark timing... but i do have room were the stock muffler would go, lots of open area worse came to worst.

adventure ahead.

dinky video update!




Driftey needs some love to

i got my 2" tach, this thing is basicly just a volt meter with the cyl select being a scale changer... this is actually really good, i can just use a variable resistor to tune in a value that resistors correctly then find a close valued resistor off my scrap pcb's.

now i modified my alt on dinky, the heatlight wire also got a diode and was ran to the B+ just like the red for more charging current, i will be just taking the headlight line with the diode and puting my variable resistor in series there.

UPDATE****
Dinky has not broken its rear yet axle agin, or front JB weld mounts yet, but after about 50 wheely pops i actually have destroyed my belt. whole think is black and has fibers coming out of it. fastest i ever killed a belt that never had issues of rubbing or popoing off.