Join date : 2021-01-15 Posts : 391 Forum Rep : 28 Location : Upstate New York
Subject: Re: Simplicity Broadmoor 728 XC Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:59 am
I think it’ll be fine. If they aren’t biting in good you could always try loading ‘em. Just my 2c
Age : 31 Join date : 2013-11-02 Posts : 2832 Forum Rep : 127 Location : New Jersey USA
Subject: Re: Simplicity Broadmoor 728 XC Sat Mar 06, 2021 10:26 am
Mr. studabaker had some traction issues last year with some big block tread tires that he had. That was more or less the concern but I would imagine it would only be an issue in a couple places on the course. And even in those places, maybe if you hit it hard enough it wouldn't be a problem. I hope this build will have quite a lot of get up and go with 20 some hp available and a couple hundred lbs less weight than the other tractors (hopefully). We'll see....
I was thinking that it may be a good idea to run tubes in the rear tires so I can run them low without knocking them off the bead. I'm at a slight disadvantage there because my tires are so small and running them low won't have as much effect as everyone else. So I gain some cornering speed and handling on some courses, but I'm giving up some performance in courses like the rock crawl. It's a bit of a gamble because if it's a complete failure in the rock crawl and mud bog, doing well in the other courses won't be enough. It's still gotta be up there in most of the other courses. I'm not expecting to do great in the mud bog but who knows. I'm a bit worried about intake height as the mud bog is expected to be pretty deep this year... My ground clearance is gonna hurt me there for sure.
Started on the wishbone. 1” square steel same as the axle itself. First I marked the front axle length out on a big piece of cardboard and used that to mark my steel. Once I had the two pieces cut about right, I clamped everything straight and welded it up. Next I’ll have to grind out a spot for the ball joint to fit. After that, the sears steering needs to go on and there will be some brackets for shocks and a panhard bar. So far everything is turning out nice and straight. The square steel is easier to line up than round tubing.
Thanks a lot. On the Simplicity adventure edition I had some pretty big gaps to fill once I got done cutting the pipes that I used for the wishbone. Where they came together at the joint was a bit of a nightmare too and I basically just welded it all in. This time I got things a lot straighter and it turned out better.
There will be a panhard bar across the front, ahead of the axle, to hold it from side to side. Basically I'm doing the exact same design as I had with the adventure edition except with the golf cart spindles instead of the sears suburban spindle and axles. I'm still going to use the normal stock sears suburban steering also, just like on the adventure edition. The steering pivot will be welded to the wishbone. I show a couple pics of that later on. It's pretty much going to be an improved version of my last setup. Also the golf cart spindles have the axle right on the center line of the wheels, so your axle is 3 or 4" lower than a normal tractor axle with the stepped up spindles. Little better center of gravity while sacrificing a little bit of ground clearance.
I think redlinemotorsports had the first one of these suspensions made up on here with his MTD build. I copied my adventure edition front end from that design.
Thank you! I'm a bit doubtful about getting fiberglass body panels made by August but we'll see. Worst case I use actual stock metal parts and make sure the fiberglass ones will fit later on. As long as the mounting will still work for fiberglass then I'm good.
Intended on using a disk brake on the rear axle but I think this will be the first time I actually use the stock brake drum on the side of the 633. It's out of the way and should work decent enough. There's not a lot of room for a caliper with how far in the rear tires stick in toward the trans. Also, with these lower rear tires, a rotor would be a lot closer to the ground so that might not be the best or easiest option. As far as I know a lot of other builds use the stock brakes on these so I figure I'll give it a shot this time. I don't like the fact that the drum is such a heavy chunk of cast iron but that's ok.
Ended up ordering a brake band from amazon so I have brackets for a band that’s readily available vs the sears one which is obsolete as far as I know. Plus I might be able to make it a little bit lighter than the stock sears bracket. Probably will need a rod to transfer from the left to the right side.
Hmm, I didn't know that either. Looks like it would fit in the frame but I'd rather not have to track down the rotor. Probably the same shaft though and would probably work good. Currently trying to get some tie rods and ends. I'll have to weld the tie rods to the outer golf cart ends. 3/8" Heims on the inside sears pivot.