trans lock

I want to lock the trans on my 1997 craftsman ic gold, id like to be able to climb things better, also ive replaced the steering box to fix the slop and slipping of th waffle gear in it and it lasted a few weeks and now its wore out again, any recomendations for repairs or a better steering box, its the orignal style just reproduced.

I'll throw out the trans lock stuff.  There are several ways to do it.

Fearless style,


@Doc Sprocket's
Doc Locker 1.0



Dock Locker 2.0 Weldless


@RCG's
Zink Locker


RCG's Locker Block


Even one called a fozzy locker.
locker - Fozzy locker or welded spiders (atltf.com)


I personally have done the weldless Doc Locker 2.0 (still working fine today after 7 years)  A welded version of the Doc Locker 2.0 (seems the most stable "3yrs") and the fozzy locker that is also working today (4yrs)!.

I know you posted in another topic you didn't have a camera to post pictures but showed the type of mower you have.  Shoot us the serial # and model so those with better-know how can jump in.  


I'm wondering if this video by  @RCG may be what you need?

Just curious but when it comes to steering I see a lot of steering racks on AliExpress that come in so cheap that I wonder why more people don't use racks.

Flyfrog is 15 so iam not going to recommend spending too much money but I guess a steering rack would be nice

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

MightyRaze wrote:

I'll throw out the trans lock stuff.  There are several ways to do it.

Fearless style,


@Doc Sprocket's
Doc Locker 1.0



Dock Locker 2.0 Weldless


@RCG's
Zink Locker


RCG's Locker Block


Even one called a fozzy locker.
locker - Fozzy locker or welded spiders (atltf.com)


I personally have done the weldless Doc Locker 2.0 (still working fine today after 7 years)  A welded version of the Doc Locker 2.0 (seems the most stable "3yrs") and the fozzy locker that is also working today (4yrs)!.

I know you posted in another topic you didn't have a camera to post pictures but showed the type of mower you have.  Shoot us the serial # and model so those with better-know how can jump in.  


I'm wondering if this video by  @RCG may be what you need?

thats an older picture of it, but its a lt4000 not sure of the transmission but i just asked @Budget_gokart about his because he has the same lawn tractor, i can get back with the trans it has unless one of you guys know off the top of your head or can figure it out, i guess the 13.5 hp models are rare, I cant find anything on it.

MightyRaze wrote:

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

could you send me a link to a reliable source thats a qaulity peice, the last thing i need is to lose steering doing something dumb

I do have the same tractor mine isnt locked i didnt ride mine in the mud enough to lock it and my other tractor might end up locked for muddin

FlyFrog wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

could you send me a link to a reliable source thats a qaulity peice, the last thing i need is to lose steering doing something dumb

Unfortunately, the Rack I was using seems to be discontinued. I was using one for a Yerf dog. I only had to shorten the tie rods.

Budget_gokart wrote:

I do have the same tractor mine isnt locked i didnt ride mine in the mud enough to lock it and my other tractor might end up locked for muddin

do you by chance know what trans came in it?

If you can give the 917.2xxxxx number, I should be able to tell ya.

Or a quick look under the back of the tractor. Should be a sticker on it.

MightyRaze wrote:

FlyFrog wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

could you send me a link to a reliable source thats a qaulity peice, the last thing i need is to lose steering doing something dumb

Unfortunately, the Rack I was using seems to be discontinued.  I was using one for a Yerf dog.  I only had to shorten the tie rods.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Shaft-Steering-Wheel-Assembly/dp/B083DVYQ5S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=yerf+dog+steering+box&qid=1663693113&sr=8-4

Was it something like this? if so i might pick one up at the end of the month

I can also try to find out the serial number with some googling

MightyRaze wrote:

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

AliExpress is legit, maybe more known in Europe and the middle East as the u.s. is more evilbay territory.
Since we moved to Israel I have done most shipping online for mechanical parts.
Some on amazon some eBay and some AliExpress.
All have their advantages and disadvantages.

Requires some skill navigating for good deals however and to recognize Chinese trash over Chinese gold. But that's up to the buyer.
Returns for lost items have actually been easier than on eBay so far.




A very random selection I found, also note that to search for certain items you have to sort of think Chinese and type power steering rack

1 shekel = 0.28 dollar

fbisurveilancevan wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

I have 3 of my 5 ATLT's using a rack. 

Definitely an option, especially if you want to go fast!

Off-topic..
PS.. is AliExpress legit?

AliExpress is legit, maybe more known in Europe and the middle East as the u.s. is more evilbay territory.
Since we moved to Israel I have done most shipping online for mechanical parts.
Some on amazon some eBay and some AliExpress.
All have their advantages and disadvantages.

Requires some skill navigating for good deals however and to recognize Chinese trash over Chinese gold. But that's up to the buyer.
Returns for lost items have actually been easier than on eBay so far.




A very random selection I found, also note that to search for certain items you have to sort of think Chinese and type power steering rack

1 shekel = 0.28 dollar

thanks for the info, i might just use aliexpress for some things now, but on the other hand @MightyRaze i found out what trans it has, its a Peerless 930-055A I found this great site that gives info you wouldnt even know where to look to find https://www.manytractors.com/lawn-tractor/craftsman-917.25929-10748/specs Im going to need this in the future

Good deal... I was just looking at
https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/8/2/1825-craftsman-91725929.html

Guess I was on the right trail. 

Stout little transaxle, has some potential.
Has the old style square body and a large capacity pan.

Keep in mind that the reverse chain is the weak link here but if it's not going to be a racing mower it'll be fine.
Just throw in some bearings on that axle and it's good to go

fbisurveilancevan wrote:

Stout little transaxle, has some potential.
Has the old style square body and a large capacity pan.

Keep in mind that the reverse chain is the weak link here but if it's not going to be a racing mower it'll be fine.
Just throw in some bearings on that axle and it's good to go

it tops out at about 12-15 mph because i did a pulley swap, thats as fast as it will ever go probably, also ive noticed with the trans after it sat for about 4 months that now nuetral is difficult to keep engaged, sometimes nuetral will put me in reverse and reverse rarely works and first gear is stiff to get into, i assume that i need to drop the rear end and flush it out and fill it with gear lube,but what would be the best bet for me to lock the rear end with?

Ok iam back ontopic,

I didn't lock mine but as a mechanics opinion.. do what you are comfortable with and don't cross that line.
Best way will always be to weld the spider, second option would be doc sprocket weldless.

The zinc locker iam not quite feeling but if you are familiar with casting metal that might even be the best option for you.

In the end nothing really changes, the goal is the same and it's only about the road you decide to take.

fbisurveilancevan wrote:

Ok iam back ontopic,

I didn't lock mine

do you have the same lawn tractor as me or just one with the same trans?

No i have a 915, the reason I didn't lock mine is because it doesn't rain here for 6 months.
Other than that the spider gears are almost always the same on peerless transaxles.

Locked diff is both a blessing or a curse depending on use.
On road or hard pack having the diff locked is not a thing you want.

I will make a dune buggy sometime and in that case I would lock the diff

Yeah, if you are not dealing with hills and mud, locking isn't too necessary.  If you are dealing with lots of hills a locked trans will help keep your traction going up and down.  No one wheel peel or the other loosing traction and deciding to turn the other way.  Some people can actually negotiate the mud with unlocked, depends on the mud.

MightyRaze wrote:

Yeah, if you are not dealing with hills and mud, locking isn't too necessary.  If you are dealing with lots of hills a locked trans will help keep your traction going up and down.  No one wheel peel or the other loosing traction and deciding to turn the other way.  Some people can actually negotiate the mud with unlocked, depends on the mud.

I defiently spend a lot of time in the mud and on hills, i probably should lock them soon, also flush the trans and put gear lube in it.

what type of gear lube or trans fluid should i use for the longevity of the trans? is there a specific brand or trans fluid weight? should i wash the trans out w/ kerosene first? maybe rust remover because i know this era of craftsmans are notorious for water getting in the trans and binding stuff up, i assume thats my problem with it. is there any seals or anything i need to do to help prevent leaks?

Cornhead grease the exact amount should be in the manual.

Cleaned mine with leftover petrol, but kerosene works just as good.
In the shop I often clean smaller greasy parts with a combination of cheap ass penetrating oil, air gun, carb cleaner and air gun again.
For the bigger parts we always have some junk petrol saved up.

I have a habit of cleaning parts with penetrating oil and the air gun as it leaves some oily residue when you actually put it back together so it doesn't run completely dry.
Never use brake cleaner on metal gear or engine parts by the way as it can cause rust.

Anyway, long rant about cleaning but seals and bearings you should probably just replace.
The extra bearings that aren't standard on the output  shaft are 6203 2rs 3/4 or a 6203 metric bearing with a 3/4 inch i.d.
Where you can best find these you will have to ask around because as I live in Israel I paid about 30 USD for just the shaft seals as I couldn't find another supplier that could ship to me.

I know my trans actually has grease nipples on the sides of the output shafts for regular grease and that actually helps against water ingress aswell.
Wouldn't hurt to tap 2 nipples in and just grease it now and then

Manual calls for 30oz BENTONITE GREASE.

Oil conversion is a possibility, but don't use as much as oil will come out the axles and where it can.

Couple mods:

If pulley swapped, I would include a vent.  Easiest way to do that is to put a nipple in the neutral safety switch port and running some hose up to a fuel filter under the seat. If you like deep water maybe up under the dash.  This will help it breathe when it gets hot and should you hit water causing it to cool fast.  This would allow it to suck in air through the breather and not the axle seals.  Possibly sucking in water into the cases.

Something like this:

This is an 820, but same theory.



Another you "can" do is an input shaft grease port.   @Murraymountain has most recently done this.  I have not done this yet on my 820.

Info for case vent...

https://www.atltf.com/t5718-peerless-vent-barbed-fitting-info?highlight=vent#87246