Engines problem

Hey guys I have a few questions I have 3 motors with problems and hoping you can help.

I have a 26 hp kohler courage v-twin that runs good just riding it around but when u engage the deck it floods it self out and it causes gas to go through the intake down on top of the piston on the left cylinder but when the deck is engaged it runs like a dream, I have pics if you want them.

I also have 2 Briggs and Strattons,  one is a 17.5 HP and the other one is 12.5 HP flathead. All the wires have been cut on the Briggs and the starter is burnt up on the 17.5 HP.  The 12.5 HP flathead had the wrong plug in it when I got it.

Any help is appreciated.

First things first, the more information we have the better so I sent you a PM asking for the engine model number codes so we can help best we can, not all parts are the same or interchangeable. I can add them in here once you've sent them to me.

The Kohler, so you say it runs fine and when the cutting deck is fully engaged it also runs fine but the transition of engaging the deck causes it to flood on the one cylinder is that right? If so I can think of a few things that could cause that like weak spark on that cylinder caused by either a bad plug, bad/weak coil or rust built up on that coil inhibiting spark under load, if you have the engine I think then it has 2 coils (one for each cylinder) and they're not interchangeable. Also maybe the governor needs to be reset or perhaps something on the cutting deck is almost seized causing a huge amount of load to be applied to engage the blades.

A go-to spark plug for basically all Briggs flathead singles is the Champion RJ19LM but some were different depending on age so the engine model number will help confirm the proper plug for it.

Alot of Briggs starters are interchangeable but not all of them so again, the engine model number is required to move ahead.

Are you saying the wires on both Briggs have been hacked up? Are they in tractors or no? Either way we'll definitely need some pictures to help you with that one.

Get us info and we'll do the best we can to help!

Little something to add to that, careful with buying chinese starters off amazon, they are absolute horse crap, you are way better off buying a used one then one of those amazon ones.

I'm sorry guys for uploading it 3 times

That the engine number for the Kohler 26 hp

that's briggs

The code for the 12.5 Briggs flathead with cast iron sleeve model num is 288707. Type number 017-01 code num is 961126ZAand the codes for the 17.5 HP with ohv Intek model num is 311777 type 0209-E1 code num 020104ZD

Hillbilly mowers wrote:

the codes for the 17.5 HP with ohv Intek model num is 311777 type 0209-E1 code num 020104ZD

It look like this?

Yea similar to that one but the flywheel cover is black

that's the 17.5 HP ohv

I have it tuke apart cause it started to smoke under the fly wheel in I try to start it the smoke will bail out under the flywheel like it is on fire

And guy I am sorry for the wrong post on the 17.5 ho it not the start it the stator that is burning up when I go to start it cause when I got the motor on a trade the wires was cut up so bad that I had to rewire them and the wires where cut so close that I barely could git a nother wire to attach to the one that was cut up on both Briggs engines and the 12.5 hp flathead had the wrong plug in it and when I pulled the spark plug out the end of the plug was flat like a pancake

Yes, ok, I have had one of those

@ pizzakitty thanks you so much for ur help and I very appreciate it very much

My green mower is an old statesman it had the 12.5 ho flat head on it until I found the wrong spark plug in so I take it off an put the 17.5 on it with push button start and a Killswitch and I used a wiring diagram that fearless front post on his YouTube page but the stator started to smoke really bad when I rewired it the same way the diagram said to wire it with out the safety switches

. That's the wiring diagram I used and it made the stator smoke like it was on fire.
T

Guy I need some advice on transaxles I just got on another trade today and the rims is welded to the axle shaft and I was wondering how I could git the off with out destroying my axle shafts

here the picture of the transaxle

Here's a pic of a replacement stator for that flathead, you'll notice the red wire near the connector has a bump, that's the charge wire and the bump is a diode that prevents power from flowing back into it, if that's been cut off then you're pretty much SOL to have a charging system unless you install a diode or replace the whole unit.


Both B&S and Kohler have excellent support in the form of parts manuals:

Briggs and Stratton Manuals

Kohler manuals

You can download specific manuals for your engines so you can find part numbers and search for parts online, sometimes a part will have more than one part number and that's because of different manufacturers making the part over the years.

As for the welded wheels on the transaxle... all you can do is try to grind/cut the welds down until you can get the wheels off and hope the axles are still useable, unfortunately the heat from welding has probably ruined any hardening they had

Those look like they are pretty stuck, If they are welded they aren't really going to come off. On the bright side those are really nice tires, would be great for an offroad mower.

Thanks guy so much for the advice and parts Info and if there is anything I can do to help u all just don't hesitate to message me or email me at jessebennett548@gmail

Your best bet would be (if the transaxle works) to throw it in to a frame and stick an engine in it. If the transaxle doesn't work, you can always take the tires (as in the rubber part) off and find a new set of rims to put them on.

Hillbilly mowers wrote:

Guy I need some advice on transaxles I just got on another trade today and the rims is welded to the axle shaft and I was wondering how I could git the off with out destroying my axle shafts

If them tires hold air, they look like decent mudding tires, you might just want to leave them on there?
Otherwise, yeah you could sit there and grind and hammer the hell out of them (Going to be a pain in the arse to fit a grinder in there, I've tried that before...) , but at the end of the day both the rims and the axle will probably not survive.

Okay guy I'm replacing my 17.5 ho engine with this 26hp Kohler engine and I was needing to know how I can re2ire it for push button start and a Killswitch and I am just un hooking it from the factory wiring harness but I don't want to git rid of the charging system. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could help cause wireing isnt my thang I can do everything else be side the wiring.

The carburetor has a fuel bowl solenoid so that has to be dealt with first, you have 2 options but because you've stated that wiring isn't your thing lets keep it simple. The easiest way to get around it is to remove the solenoid, cut the end of the plunger off, reinstall the solenoid but leave the wire(s) unhooked and then install a inline fuel petcock so you can manually turn off the fuel when it's not in use.

For KILL you need to find where the 2 KILL wires coming from the coils join into 1, extend a wire from that into one post of a standard (2 post) toggle switch and from the other post run a wire to ground. What kills spark is the coil(s) being grounded.

For START you'll need to run 12v to one side of the push button switch and then a wire from the other side of the switch to the starting solenoid, if it's a 3 post solenoid it's easy, attach the wire to the small post. If it's a 4 post there's 2 big and 2 small posts, one small post should be wired to GROUND and the other is 12V input wired to the push button switch.

For CHARGE you can run a wire from the center post on the regulator (mounted on the fan shroud, should be marked B+) strait to the postive on the battery or alternatively to the large post on the starting solenoid that comes from the battery, it will work the same either way.

The issue you'll have now is that power will always be on and slowly drain the battery so you can either unhook the battery when you're not using it or add a cutoff switch like this.

Wiring can be intimidating but with practice and experience it gets easier, I really should make a writeup for rewiring tractors in different configurations as it's something that comes up often enough to warrant it.

Hope this helps you out!