new here, and would like some help...

hi, I'm new here, and I'm building a offload mower, and its a 16.0 opposed cylinder, and was just wondering what you guys do for carberation, and internal engine mods?

Personally I'm still running stock carb.

on the mower in your profile pic?

All the ones I have. @Mr.modified has run 2 carbs.

Welcome to the forum! I also run a few opposed twins with stock carburetors, and they all have plenty of power for what I'm doing.

If you were looking for a performance carburetor though, an ATV style silde carb would be a possibility. In my opinion though, to really take advantage of a performance carb like that a port job on the engine and maybe even a custom intake manifold would be a good idea. A different cam would tie into that nicely as well.

But to me, as long as your oppy is tuned properly and not worn out, it should have plenty if power for you.

thanks for the reply, but may i ask how to you jet carbs, I've never really worked on carberatours, I've only cleaned mine thats bout it, but I also fix broken seedeaters and blowers and sell them back for like 25$-75$, and most of the work is carberation,
btw I'm only 13 yrs old

Well when it comes to opposed twins (I'm assuming yours is a  Briggs) I don't think there's anyone that actually makes jet kits for them, so you would have to enlarge the hole in the jet yourself to richen the fuel mixture. This is done by removing the jet from the carb and using the correct size drill bit to carefully bore it out. I'm not sure what size though, and I wouldn't go drilling out willy-nilly, because if you go too rich there's no adjustment to bring it back to where it should be. Some of the older 3-screw carbs have the adjustable main jet, but the majority of them are fixed.

Really though if you richen the mixture on a stock oppy it most likely wouldn't help the power any.

To my knowledge Briggs oppys already run rich I have been told.

what about engine mods, i would like to get all billet aluminum internal performance parts, but i only have about 1000$ so thats pretty much a fantasy, and i know you shouldn't remove the governor without a billet aluminum flywheel, and even if you don't remove the gov I've heard it makes your engine lighter and quicker, but its 350$ like wut ?!?!
and lets say i did get the flywheel and removed the governor, would the motor blow as easy as they say it does? will a rod go through the block? will the pistons just say "aight, imma head out?" will my block crack? and what about the valve and valve springs, will those just crap out on themselves?
but is there some parts that i could get that all put together is 1000$ or under, to make sure i don't blow motor with gov removed?
and btw, thx so much for replying so far, and helping me out
and sorry for all the questions, I've just found this hobby a little bit ago, and have really gotten into it,
and if i do something, i want to get it done right

Lots of guys have run un-governed with all stock parts, you pretty much just have to use your head and not hold it wide open all the time. Sure if you already have a worn, knocking engine, it probably wouldn't last long, but in most cases it's fine.

Billet parts are gonna be expensive, and I don't really think they're neccessary unless you're building a dedicated racer which would be run at high RPM's for long periods of time.

Do you mean $1000.00? If you remove the governor, and you have the money to buy the parts, I would suggest the billet piston rods. Revving past the governor limit puts a clock on the aluminum stock piston rods, They hold together for a while but they will let go when the clock runs out, no telling when either but usually takes a while, and is usually the first major part to go. If you plan to keep the revs down, I would suggest keeping the governor hooked up and would be safe to about 3,750 rpm's which is still pretty fast. Maybe invest in a tachometer. Porting the pathways for intake and exhaust on a governed engine is doable, and would get you up to speed in a hurry with a very strong pull. A bigger cam and aluminum flywheel would only be good if you plan on racing someone, LOL. If you are looking for top speed then you can change belt pulleys, 16 hp. is a lot of power with some to spare for that.

Welcome to the forum.

Just read your intro on the other welcome thread. Here is a link to some of the speed parts you was asking about.

https://www.arcracing.com/

A good place to daydream. Good name brand and is not make in China. If you have trouble finding things, just call them and tell them what you are wanting to do.

thanks for all the replies guys, so going on what you guys said, ( even though some awnsers are different )
first before i ask the question heres what the mower is for, its a yard basher, and i also use it to haul around stuff, and we have about 10 acres of wooded land, and our neighbor has over 50 acres of wooded land he lets us use, so it also is a "trail" mower, but I'm not doing the extreme rock crawling/mudding you guys do on your mowers that an atv could barely get through, its just simple going over little roots, ditches ( usually get stuck in those ) and little 3 in deep mud puddles    ( because i have stock tires ), and the occasional 5 inch deep leafy terrain that the woods have. it currently goes about
12-15mph i would say,

would i love more speed? yes i would.

but would i lose torque if i went 30mph? oh yea a lot.

BUT, if i keep the rear pulley thats on it now, and soup up the motor to handle around lets say 1.7-2.0 times the rpm, thats at LEAST like 22 mph, BUT i still get to keep the torque.
do you guys see where I'm coming from here?
so that leads to my question:
since yalls awnsers was different, can i SAFELY make the engine go  >AT LEAST<  5200 rpm with just a billet flywheel and billet rods?
and should i worry about the valves, or anything else?
and i know I've said this but ima say it again, i want to get this done CORRECTLY and SAFLY for me and the motors sake.
that is why I'm asking all these questions

Do you really need to pull 5200 rpms?  Check out the Top Tractor Challenge videos @redzz02 and @Mister_Studabaker put up.

https://www.atltf.com/t6200-top-tractor-challenge-2019-videos

Those guys are basically running stock engines at around 3600.  (Exception of @Mister_Studabaker, but that is a whole other story.  You should check his Keiser thread out for fun one day.  He's running mods and computerized ignition) https://www.atltf.com/t6058-keizer-the-little-cub-cadet-122-is-growing-up

Heck with $1k to spend, I'd save the money and run what I have, re-power when it blows!  That is me though.

As far as all the different answers, there isn't a one stop method to do this.  It comes down to what you want to do and have fun doing it.  With a side of being safe.

what do you mean by repower?

and yes i also think it would be cool to get atleast 5200 rpm
why do i want so high rpm ?
easy awnser, because I'm a dumb 13 year old kid......
LOL

loggers gogert wrote:

what do you mean by repower?

He means a replacement engine.

oh, speaking of that,
lets yay i did need another motor for the mower, what motor would you recommend?
and just saying my mower is like 21 years old, so its REALLY heavy so it should be a bit powerful
is buying a used racing engine a good route,
and what are your thoughts on the predator v-twin?

i would go with a briggs v twin over the predator, the predators have mixed reviews, mostly coming from the parts support side of things from what i've seen, but that may have changed since the last time i checked into it, the briggs vanguard twin is a great engine and since they were on dozens of different brands and models they can be had at a decent price used, the intek version isn't as good but can be had even cheaper, i got my 23hp intek v twin for $50 in good running condition, and other than having to replace the coils it's been pretty trouble free in the 2 years i've owned it, but it's really your choice, the briggs engines are easy to get parts for where the predator may not be, this one thing is usually the deciding factor for me when i buy an engine

@loggers gogert Nice to see you jumping in on the hp band wagon. I've thought quite in depth on opposed twins as high hp motors and came away with zero support for this motor design. If a intake manifold with a 1.2" i.d. was available this may have left the ground on my end. Cams can ground for around 300$ but with no support for the intake side to improve the breathing aspect makes this a limited hp gain. So I switched gears and went where the support is. Kohler command v twin. Lots of engine support from the pulling community and the never ending need for more hp. The current build SGT Pepper is being outfitted with such a motor and is being built by yours truly at the cheapest route possible. The shopping list is still pending. I can tell you that rods, pistons and cam can be easily had from various company's to make a 5000 rpm motor last.

Best regards,
Mister_Studabaker

whoa, you got one for 50 bucks........waaaaaa?
don't those things go for like 1000+ dollars

New they’re expensive. The only reason I bought my vanguard brand new is I got a good deal on it. 500 bucks out the door. Look around on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace, cheap engines are easy to find.

Even running a bigger pulley ratio, with 16 hp you’ve got PLENTY of torque. Unless you’ll be pulling cars uphill all day on the regular, id just pull the Governor off, use your head when mashing the gas, and up your pulley ratio a bit. Is this an MTD yard man with the junk FNR trans?

uh, i found a tranny on the side of the road, and put it on, it was originally an automatic mower, but i took the auto off and put the single speed i found on the side of the road on and made the PTO the clutch
if you need more detail i can explain

okay guys... I've been thinking, i think i want to get the internal parts to make engine go 5000rpm+

now, if i give y'all my engine model numbers, is it possible you can help me find the EXACT parts i need?

hey, i know this isn't the forum but i thought id show this to you...