new here, and would like some help...

really? I've heard like for example on haymow, that they said stock steering sucks, because they KNEW the mowers wouldn't be going over 5-7 mph
for y'all that run stock steering, what mph do you guys top out at?
personally my goal would like to be about 20mph

The stock steering boxes/gears aren’t the issue. Typically it’s the front axle bushings being very worn and the factory geometry in the front axle.

Toe in and out is exactly what it sounds like

Camber is the top of the tires being tilted in or out
(looking at it from the front the tires would be / \ or \ / or | | ) if that makes sense

Caster would be the axle tilted back a few degrees. This is what pulls the steering wheel back to center. Putting big tires in the back without doing anything to the front gets rid of caster and makes the front end very “darty” and really emphasizes any play the steering may have. Also makes it very unpredictable on the trail and even worse at speed

what do you guys recommend i do to my steering?
if so how do i do it, and where can i get the parts?

Honestly probably weld up a new front axle. If that’s out of the question, replacing all the stock plastic bushings with brass bushings as @prancstman said will help. You can get them at tractor supply or online. Just measure up what size you need

i don't have a welder, but how do you make the front axle better?
do you need to modify any other parts?
and is there any thing else i can do to make me safer with the steering, or will bushings just fix it?
remember mt goal is about 20 mph.
can i just buy kit instead,  like for example a go kart steering kit, or are the dimensions not right to go on a mower?
once again sorry for all the questions

Dimensions probably aren’t going to be right. Just bushings and new heim joints on the steering links and you should be good for 20 mph or so

I was topping well over 30 on a Murray widebody with stock steering and no mods.  It all depends on the tractor, and how worn or sloppy the steering is.  I have since changed that out to a custom made front end.  As far as a kit, I do not know, nor have I seen someone use a gokart kit.

is there a certain type of hein joint i should get, like quality wise?
if so could you tell me which type, or even better giving  a link would be much appreciated.
and with those upgrades, should i be worried about any play in the steering?
and after that, this brings me to another topic, brakes, but ill get to that after we finish talking about steering

I would say for steering you don't have to have super high quality stuff. Probably 1/2" heims would be pretty bullet proof for steering. I think quality is mostly down to how long it will last wear wise vs actual breaking. For example, a more expensive heim joint may have a brass liner or grease fitting ect. Even the cheap stuff will last a long time. If you don't ride around constantly, probably the life of the machine almost.

A tiny bit of play in the steering is kinda normal with most people's setups. Not a serious issue, it's just annoying. There's quite a few different points of wear that can cause slack, they all add up. Keep everything as tight as you can (New joints if needed ect) and that's about all you can do. In the woods you won't notice sloppy steering as much as higher speed straight line running.

Edit: I bought some stuff from Barnes 4wd recently without any issues, although you could find the stuff elsewhere too. BMI karts is also decent, even though their website is kinda haphazard sometimes.

Here's some links, there's all different spacers and things available too, male or female ends on the joints depending on how your setting it up.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Economy-12-x-12-20-Right-Hand-Thread-Heat-Treated-Heim-Joint_p_399.html

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Heim-Joints-Enduro-Joints-and-Hardware_c_7.html

20 mph is around what i got out of my murray with stock steering, i didn't set it up to go faster since it was a trail machine, i really like the murray widebody steering, not everyone does, the 2nd gen craftsman steering box is really good, it's the drag link that sucks on them imo, my suggestion is to get a welder, even if it's a cheap harbor freight 120 amp flux core mig, they have models that run off standard 120A house hold current, it'll open up all kinds of possibilities for you when it comes to a trail/mud mower

With a welder and a hack saw, you can build almost anything

sooooo...........lets say i DID get a welder,
 what is, and how do i make the welded front axle?

With an MTD front axle, is a hollow box basically and probably full of grass and dirt. To keep the shape of the axle, the bottom is welded on, cut off the bottom part to gain access to the hollow inside and weld metal inside to make the shape stronger keeping in mind that bolts pass through the axle. When the bracing is welded in on the inside, weld the bottom back in. So the end result will be a stock looking axle on the outside that will bolt right back into the frame but is reinforced on the inside out of view. The ends where the spindles pass through on the axle can be reinforced by laying metal flat stock over the outside to box in the spindles for added strength, keeping in mind the added metal don't hit the wheel. Then redo the plastic bushings with brass ones.

Tools needed would be a hand grinder with a grinding wheel and cutoff disks, a welder with a helmet, and the necessary hand tools for disassembly of axle from frame. And the metal to do the mods, angle iron and flat stock steel.

Also be a good idea to look through other peoples build threads to get a visual idea on what to do and how to do it.

thank you, and this brings me to hopefully my last question ( for y'alls sake )
brakes?
stock?
disk brakes?
modified?
brake kit?
are stock good enough?
 etc.

Honestly, none of my machines have functioning brakes. The mk2 KINDA does but not really. I just downshift and engine brake most of the time. It works well enough for me

okay guys, so I've gotten some stuff written down on what i need on my notepad next to me.
heres what it is tell me if it is correct or if i should add stuff to it, remember i have abo 1000$

brass bushings ( for steering )
heim joints ( for steering )
a manual tranny ( ill prob get the 4spd that one of you guys sent me a link to )
and this foot throttle:  ( it won't let me post the link for the foot throttle because nEW mEmBErS hAVe tO WaIt fOR 7 dAyS bEForE poSTiNg lInKS )

is there anything else i should get? i still have a lot of $$ left over if i get this, and i would like to get more stuff.

oh yea and maybe a welder

Definitely a welder. Also budget in a new pulley for your trans as the old one will not transfer over (about 20 bucks) and maybe a new belt depending on what rear pulley you go with (also about 20 bucks) and some wheels if you don’t have some already. The mst is a 3/4 inch axle (cant remember the size of the keyway at the moment) and the wheel diameter most tractors run is 8”

Best suggestion I can make, is get a cheap welder (the Titanium 140 from Harbor Freight has good reviews) and practice. Weld as much as you can to get the experience. I bought a cheap $100 welder off eBay at 13 and self trained myself on a lot.

Second is if your school has an automotive program to enroll in it. Youll learn a lot there and you may be able to work on your machine there. Mine did and it was probably the best few hours a day of my life.

thanks guys, but about  the pulley, i had to jerry rig my 4 1/2 inch to fit on my trans to make it faster, because i couldn't find one online, where do you guys get yours?
( i spent DAYS looking for a pulley and couldnty find one )

I sometimes get pulleys from Tractor supply even though they are usually out of stock on half the stuff and a bit expensive. they have weldable hubs and pulleys that fit on the hubs so you can mix and match for shaft size ect. Could probably get pulleys online too.

Of course the cheapest way is to cut and re-weld stuff that you find or have laying around. Just takes a bit more time. Buying new stuff always adds up.

i get all my pulleys from ebay, i can get them seperate with a hub and pulley like mr modified described or look for a seller that will weld them for you, usually costs me around $25 a piece for the ones i get pre-welded, just stay away from aluminum pulleys unless you have absolutely no other choice

alright guys, thanks for all the replies, I'm probably not done asking questions lol
but for now i am.....
im gonna try to  build this sucker, keep an eye out on the news channel might see me on there lol
i don't have a phone.......but ill TRY to get some pics out for y'all, if i do get some pics out it sadly won't have offload tires I JUST CANT GET THOSE FRIGGIN THINGS OFF, its supposed to snow tomorrow where i live, so that prob means ill run it the whole day, won't be surprised if the diff case splits
ooohhhhh good lord, this is gonna be a fun year :big grin:

hey guys, i just looked at the website for that peerless 4spd tranny you guys were telling me to get, and it said "MAX 2000 RPM"  so....can i still modify it for my 20mph desired speed?
and it also said it does not have a clutch, so i guess its not a shift on the go?
i would REALLY like a shift on the go, so i can shift it like a car 
( let off clutch to launch, get on throttle, let off throttle then push in the clutch to go to second gear, let off clutch then get on gas, then let off throttle push in clutch shift into 3rd etc. )
and i don't see where the gear shift would go, and i not see how you get into FNR on the picture.
are you guys sure the link that y"all gave me for the 4spd is the correct tranny?
if its not, could you guys direct me to the one i need?

It’s a shift on the go. The clutch is on the tractor.

The shifter goes RN1234 all in a line. Input is on the top at the front left corner. You’ll have to get creative with linkages, but it’s not too bad

so shift on the go means it shifts like a car right?
and also i have to make my own gear stick?
if so thats fine, and you said the gears are all in a line, so is the shifter like this?

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or like this?