here's the video, would have had it done yesterday, but the solenoid decided to go bad right when i tried to get the video done, @MightyRaze if there's anything i missed about the build that you need to know let me know https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6psw9zAFXg
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Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15559 Posts : 10931 Location : Oklahoma
i don't expect to win or place unless someone doesn't finish in time, there was times when i thought i wouldn't be able to complete it at all, but then it's not really completed, after the comp ends i will continue this build, i will get the things i wanted to do to it done and until i'm happy with it i won't consider it to be truly finished
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Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15559 Posts : 10931 Location : Oklahoma
since this was already meant for the street rather than off road i'm planning to take that idea even further, i want something totally unique, future plans involve ditching the hydro and swapping to a mst 205 and enclosing the bed, my goal is to build a C cab wagon/enclosed delivery style rig, something like this, but not as fancy i have the plans in my head, i know what materials i need to do it with, i just need to transfer those mental plans to physical, my plan is to build a frame that bolts into the bed and reaches over the driver to give the basic shape, then skin it with 1/4in exterior grade plywood for the sides and roof. since it's the middle of winter and the weather is not conductive to be working outside with wood, at least not here in S. Illinois, i'm going to be waiting until mid-late spring to actually continue this build
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darkside0914 Established Member
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Age : 48 Join date : 2018-05-05 Points : 2941 Posts : 518 Location : S. Illinois
i'm currently getting ready to tear down a 14hp oppy to see if it's worth rebuilding, that is once i figure out how to get the pulley and flywheel off since they are rust welded on, if it is i want to mount it on this, i like the oppies, but don't have much experience with them, it did run, sort of, the carb is bad, it leaked severely from the bottom crank seal and smoked, and may have only been firing on one cylinder, not real sure, but didn't seem to knock in the short time we ran it
Rustbucket Garage Veteran Member
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You can heat the pulley with a torch to the greatest extent you can and then shock it with water. It should break the rust free. I don’t know if this would damage the flywheel or send it off balance so a puller and penetrating oil might be better there. You can make your own puller from some bolts and a piece of steel stock. Rusty parts are my arch enemy too.
darkside0914 Established Member
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@Rustbucket Garage tried a puller it stripped the puller center bolt, i got the pulley free, we tried everything to get it off last year when we got the engine, but maybe time and the oil it leaked out is what i9t needed because i just had to smack it with a hammer and it came off, i pulled the heads off, half the bolts were loose and the gaskets were blown because of it, the cylinders look good, no scratches and the pistons fit tight, i think i may be able to replace the seal, head gaskets, and carb and might actually have a runner
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i planned to run dual straight pipes out the back, even if it takes me awhile to do the mods to the tractor i plan to do, i'll at least be able to get it sounding good
Murraymountain Veteran Member
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@Murraymountain i don't like stacks, to easily damaged, unless they're in the bed, and the bed is going to be enclosed, i've had a stack on one tractor and it got broke off breaking the engine block in the process
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@Murraymountain yeah that's the plan, but 1st i'm going to swap out the transaxle and get this engine going, there's also the fact i'll need to build a clutch for it and switch to a better belt set up than the veri drive i'm using as a jack shaft, it slips to much
Rustbucket Garage Veteran Member
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@Rustbucket Garage that was the original plan, but now, unless i change my mind about enclosing the bed and doing it as a C cab, and if i get this 14 oppy going i'm going to run dual straight pipes
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@Rustbucket Garage that's going to be awhile, the current weather isn't conductive to working outside with wood which will be the main building material for the c cab body @mr.modified if i had thought about doing it during the build off i may have actually won, would have been a lot cooler than what i built even with the hydro and 12hp flattie stuck in there
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@Rustbucket Garage i planned to use treated 2x4s and outdoor grade 1/4in plywood, all of it painted with deck sealer to protect the wood and then painted in whatever colors i choose, my plan is to make a frame with the 2x4s to give me the basic shape then bolt that frame into the bed using 1/2 in carriage bolts/nuts, from there i will use cardboard to make a template and trace that onto the plywood before cutting it out and mounting it with wood glue and decking screws, i think the 1/4in ply will be strong enough to withstand the movement of the tractor and flexible enough to be bent over the slight curves of the roof and where i will need to angle it in to meet the body, but the ply will not be structural all the strength will come from the frame it's mounted to, then will come body work to smooth it out and paint, i'm not going to worry about it looking like a show piece, as long as it looks good from 5 -10 feet away will make me happy
darkside0914 Established Member
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got the gasket set ordered for the oppy thanks to @MightyRaze for helping me get the part numbers, paid less then $12 for a set that comes with every gasket and seal this engine takes, from head gaskets to the dipstick tube seal, since i can't seem to get the flywheel off i'm going to leave it alone, the seal there isn't leaking and if it starts i'll have a replacement maybe running it will help break the flywheel loose
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the gaskets came today so i i took the pan off the oppy, it's clean inside, didn't get pics yet but will tomorrow, there really is no play anywhere that i can find, the pistons are tight in their bores, the con rods are tight, everything looks and feels like a fairly low hr engine, i think the biggest issue was it sat for over a decade and all the seals and gaskets went bad, i am going to have to clean up the cylinders where water got in and caused some corrosion to start, but otherwise it looks really good, i'm going to clean it up, replace all the gaskets and give it a paint job, should be a good engine when it's all done
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@Rustbucket Garage black for the block since i already have high temp black paint, haven't decided on the color of the tins, but will likely be body color when i get to that point, haven't decided on that either, but it's not staying all black here's the pics of the insides of the oppy the cylinders are going to need some cleaning but otherwise not bad