Water in engine

that, i cannot tell you. i'd tell you how I would do it, but its probably not right. to me it seems like you'd be able to see it after you take the shroud off, but im not sure.. never had that problem

To inspect the flywheel key, you must remove the cooling shroud, debris screen, flywheel nut, and anything under that nut. Look closely, and you will see the top of the key, as well as the square keyway in the crankshaft and the flywheel bore. If those 2 keyways are not PERFECTLY aligned, the key is damaged and must be replaced. Replacement requires flywheel removal.

FWIW, the sole purpose of the key is to set the ignition timing during assembly. Replace your key ONLY with another timing key, do NOT use steel key stock or any steel for that matter. Damage WILL ensue. The key does NOT transmit power like a normal drive key does. Some racers use no key at all.

Remember to properly torque the flywheel nut back down when you're done, to 125-150 ft/lbs.

i was close. i would have figured it out.. lol

I really hope that key isn't broken. I don't have $80 to shell out on a torque wrench.

A torque wrench does NOT have to cost you $80. A beam-type (although less accurate) will probably run you $20 or less. A breakaway should be attainable for under $40. I'm not talking Snap-On here, but functional- and certainly better than none at all.

I was always told the kind with the dial suck. In that case I could probably borrow one from school.

TokyoDrift99 wrote:

I was always told the kind with the dial suck.

Compared to what?

I can't say they do. My 2 torque wrenches are of the breakaway type, and I sure can't complain. I don't strip stuff, and nothing ever lets go...

Compared to the clicker kind.

What we have here, is a failure to communicate. The "clicker" kind- IS a breakaway torque wrench and is adjusted with a dial! You must have been referring to the beam-type.

I never torque the flywheel nuts on either. I generally give them a quick rip with an air gun, although that probably isn't recomended. Some people might cring a bit when I say I can't remember ever torquing the rod bolts on these small engines. Maybe once. More on topic though... Like doc said, the key is pretty much only there to keep things aligned when your tightening up the nut. I've run push mower engines without the key even being in place. I was messing around trying to set the timing ahead a little. I didn't have any trouble with it, but of course you can't tell if it moved or not after the nut is on. I can also say that it is a good idea to use the correct aluminum key. I made one out of steel once and didn't have the nut all the way tight because I forgot the washer. Came loose and jammed everything into the shroud, when it stalled, it broke a piece out of the crank.