Water in engine

I forgot to cover up my tractor and it rained, water got in the engine. I tried to use the starter to blast the water out, (spark plugs out, intake off) but it won't turn over. I used a rachet to turn the crankshaft and it feels clunky and binds up sometimes. I don't think rust is a problem because there is oil on the bores. Can I pull the heads, and get the water out WITHOUT having to replace the head gaskets?

TokyoDrift99 wrote:

I forgot to cover up my tractor and it rained, water got in the engine. I tried to use the starter to blast the water out, (spark plugs out, intake off) but it won't turn over. I used a rachet to turn the crankshaft and it feels clunky and binds up sometimes. I don't think rust is a problem because there is oil on the bores. Can I pull the heads, and get the water out WITHOUT having to replace the head gaskets?

How long is this been uncovored and exposed to the elements? if its been more then a month maybe, sounds like its siezed, and you need to pull heads, because the cyl's will have surface rust that could scar the rings and cyl wall when you turn it over, all that should be removed.

It has been less than a week. Do I need to replace the gaskets? What do I use I get the rust out? A wire wheel?

TokyoDrift99 wrote:

It has been less than a week. Do I need to replace the gaskets? What do I use I get the rust out? A wire wheel?

Well id pull the heads and check it out really, gaskets arnt to much money.

Pull the heads and check. That short of time it shouldnt be locking unless there is something seriously wrong with it.

Alright, I'll do it tomorrow. Do I need to torque the head bolts to spec? I don't own a torque wrench.

I believe it is like around 140 in-lb. Which is tight plus a quarter turn or so.

haha thanks Doug.

Pulled the heads..... How does this look.  

Yikes. id pull the cyl all the way down and scotch brite the hole cyl, cyl deck, and valve heads. doug has cleaned these up before, i think he used a brush from a bbq grill.

Yep, scruff off the rust a little and slap it back together, it'll be fine. I've never torqued bolts on lawn mower engines, Just don't get over excited and strip everything, aluminum threads are a little fragile.

Before and after of a head. What should I use to clean the bores? If you look at the head there are a LOT of scratches from the wire wheel after I cleaned them. That can not be good to score up the bore like that. Right?

Nah, that'll be fine.

You'll probably find that most of it just wipes off fairly easy, just a bit of surface rust.

Yeah it wiped off... I have found when I rotate the crankshaft it still is not smooth. Every time the left piston reaches top dead center and goes all the way back down it leaves a rusty gritty film on the bore.   Should I just pull the crankcase cover and see what is going on?

TokyoDrift99 wrote:

Yeah it wiped off... I have found when I rotate the crankshaft it still is not smooth. Every time the left piston reaches top dead center and goes all the way back down it leaves a rusty gritty film on the bore.   Should I just pull the crankcase cover and see what is going on?

Yea id suggest you do, maybe pop the pistons out too if its still a problem. Id suggest getting a torque wrench, its one of those tools that you will have for your life if you continue messing with engines

Well good news I jumped it off my dads truck and now the crankshaft spins like butter. I put it all together an it runs! Only problem is it seems to sputter and smoke, no mater how i adjust the mixture screw. Any clue why?

Most likely water is in the float bowl or in the fuel. At least that's what I would guess, or maybe a stuck ring.

is the smoke white or black?

The smoke is white, or black, or gray depending on the mixture,

black is rich, white is oil/lean. get it kinda gray ish to start, give it a snort of crack (ether) and see if it goes. if you dont have any ether give a dribble of fuel down the intake. if STILL nothing, take off the shroud and inspect the flywheel key. MAY have sheared off somehow

I'm not really sure how i would check the flywheel key. If the key was broken how could the thing still spin. I'm really sorry if this is a retarted question, but I'm still learning how to work on these engines. Will carb cleaner work instead of ether?

it only takes a small amount to throw off the timing, and most flywheels are press fitted onto a tapered shaft, so it takes alot to break them free. think of a flywheel key as a shock absorber, if you stall it, or there is a sudden shock to the engine that slows it quickly, the key is supposed to break, reducing the momentum from the flywheel forcing the engine. as far as carb cleaner, yeah, that will work just fine as a starting fluid

Ok so how do I check it? The engine is a 18hp oppy horizontal shaft if that helps.

that, i cannot tell you. i'd tell you how I would do it, but its probably not right. to me it seems like you'd be able to see it after you take the shroud off, but im not sure.. never had that problem