yard pro gt

Probably has water in the trans.  They are pretty notorious for letting water in the shifter.

Leave the boat seat, but add a pin so it only swivels when you want it to. The swivel seat o the mk2 was great for trail breaks

the diff, the brake, and the input pulley are free, but it's not letting the rear tires roll freely in neutral and it won't shift into any of the gears, so it could be water in the case causing it with as cold as it is here

the seat's not in great condition as you can see in this pic, it was next to the guys house when it burnt down a few months ago

You had mentioned that you wanted to make this into an off-roader. What sort of upgrades do you plan on? Can’t wait to see where you go with this one!

tires, gas pedal, and pulley swap, i tried to talk my brother into locking it but he doesn't want to, fix or replace the seat and paint, he wants to do it up in orange, we're hoping the engine runs, but if it doesn't not a big deal, we have another 20hp vanguard v twin on a saber with a hydro we can put on it,

weathers finally warmed up enough to get out and mess with the wizard, starter is weak but the motor turns over and seems to have decent compression, i think @MightyRaze called it with the transaxle, now that it's warmed up enough to thaw things out it's going into gear and turning the input by hand i can feel it's trying to turn the wheels, hopefully the drain plug will come out and we can refill the transaxle with fresh oil, the high/low is still stuck in high but no big deal there, now to decide what to do with the yard pro, i have a few options, but i might just fix the steering and drive it, i know i'm getting rid of several of my other tractors, i'm not doing anything with them and they are just taking up space

the vanguard twin runs, we got it started last night, seems to run good, but it's another case of not sure if the pump, or lines are bad or if it's just to low on fuel to pick it up because it's not pulling fuel from the tank

Maybe garbage in the bottom of the tank?  Still not pull with gas cap off?  I've even seen where a filter was so clogged it kept fuel from being pulled.

not sure, we only had a little gas to put in it at the time, but will be getting more today, i didn't look but it may even have a shutoff on the tank that needs switched, i'm sure we'll figure it out pretty quick once we get some fuel for it

we put gas in and it's pumping fuel, carb seems like it's clogged, it's not the solenoid since we can hear it clicking, so we need to take off the carb and check it and the starter's having an issue now

had 2 issues with the starter, 1st it was bad, even off the tractor it wouldn't crank, and 2nd the ground is bad, i found the issue with the fuel, the carb's fine, it just had a bunch of water/bad fuel in the tank, my brother said it was empty but apparently not, it will sit and idle without issue now that we drained it, it needs a throttle cable, the one on it is froze up and we need to figure out what to do for an air filter since the entire filter housing is missing and we can't find one for it locally, i might just get some 1/4in plastic sheet and make one myself

If you can wait a few days and you are handy with a welder I can try and draw up some dimensions so you can weld a new housing and take stock air filters. To be clear though this is for your vanguard right? And also mine is a horizontal shaft with a 2 barrel Nikki so there might be some variance. I’m more than happy to do it though, I don’t have a lot of tractor projects this week.

yeah it's a vanguard 20hp v-twin, i'm not that good with a welder, i can get it to stick metal together, usually, but that's about as far as my skills go, but i do have 1 part, the little brace that bolts to the bottom carb bolts and holds the filter in place, we just don't have the backing plate or the cover , that's why i was just going to use plastic, i can easily cut the holes needed and fit the mount so the filter seals against it, and unfortunately the only sheet metal i have is aluminum, but thinking about it i could probably make something with that, bend and rivet it for strength and then use something like jb weld to seal it up

You can probably use aluminum and just cut a piece to fit under the air filter stud there to seal the air filter and close off underneath it. As long as you're not going through the nevada desert I think you'll be fine. How thick is your aluminum?

very thin, i can easily bend it by hand, but i just thought of something else, i have a small steel baking pan about the size of a factory air box, i can easily mod that to work, i can use the airbox off our hydro drive saber as a template, it has the same engine, maybe use the factory box off the saber on this and the homemade box on it since it's used as a grunt vehicle and rarely goes off road

here we go, 1 homemade baking pan air box backing plate a front covor will come at a later date

Looks good! I kinda like it without the top lid though, it looks automotive. If you wanted a lid though I think just do the same thing, buy a cooking pan off Amazon of the same dimensions and mount it with a hinge and a magnet.

we are more concerned with keeping water out, but i was thinking the same thing for the cover except with a seal and a snorkel set up, or at least a seal with it open at the very top to prevent water from getting in easily, but it'll do for now, next thing up is a test drive, my brother drove it and judging by what he said it may be stuck in low range, i'll check it out tomorrow and see if i can figure it out, might just be a bent shift bracket not allowing it to go into high range because i know the rod going inside the transaxle is moving like it should, he said he shifted between high/low and there was no difference in speed

i'm gonna ask for advice from people who know more about 633s than i do, the trans seems to be stuck in low, shift the lever from high to low and there's no change, could the shifter inside be broken or is it likely something else, the rod going into the trans seems to be moving as it should it's just not shifting between high/low

Is there any clicking between high and low? Could be a busted off clip inside. @AllisKidD21 had an issue with his hi/low on his GT6000. Check out his thread.

https://www.atltf.com/t5454-craftsman-gt-6000-build

it feels like it's shifting, but not actually shifting, but it's something i'll check out later, my brother traded a little 3.5 or 5 hp tecumseh go cart motor for another 633 and the melted craftsman it was on, the craftsman was next to a house that burned so all the plastic melted, it also has the parts i need for the front end of the yard pro, i checked out the 633 out of it, everything's working like it should, so we'll swap it over and i'll take this one apart and see what the deal is, if i can fix it great, i'll lock it and use it in the yard pro or the suburban, if i can't well we'll have a parts transaxle for the yard pro, my suburban or the wizard
@Murraymountain this craftsman chassis we just picked up has that shifter plate you was interested in, my brother said if you pay for shipping you can have it, if there's anything else you want we can work out something on it

Okay, save that, and if I think of anything else I'll let you know! I'll try to work something out with you for shipping next week through PM. Sound good?


EDIT: By chance, does that frame have a deck on it?

no there's no deck, and next week on that plate sounds fine

i had to remake the drag link for the yard pro, it came off the craftsman junk mower and at some point someone had welded the ball for the steering pivot and then just left the bolt slightly loose so it would rotate when turning, so i cut the ends off and used the tie rod with it's adjustable rod ends, i welded a section of it to each end giving me adjustable replaceable rod ends on the drag link, i really hate how ayp made the drag link so you had to replace the whole thing when the ball ends wear out, my little toro 550 is the same way and i'll be doing the same thing when i get around to building it

the yard pro is a running driving tractor, the fuel pump is fine,it seems it was a solenoid on the carb causing issues, the oddest one i've ever seen tbh since it's nowhere near the bowl, but the plunger fell out when i took it off so i just left it out and it's starting and staying running now, i replaced the worn out bushings in the steering, it still has some play but nowhere near what it had before i replaced the sector gear bushings, i think i'm going to see about upgrading those to bearings maybe put in some flush mount pillow blocks, but i think a large part of the play comes from the drag link, i'm going to see about upgrading that to actual heim joints later on, but for now it's fine, and finally i mounted 18x8.50 tires on the front, they're the ones i had on my murray, i plan to run a 25x10-12 on the rear, i haven't decided if i want to lock it yet, probably will if i can get the hubs off, we still haven't changed out the transaxle on the wizard, but i have determined it is an internal issue with the high/low, i was hoping it was just the selector rod not coming all the way out, but it's hitting the frame and can't come out any further, so i know it is