Figured I'd update you guys. Motor has been in the car for about 2 weeks and is doing great. Just put another 3400 in though which I'm not pleased about, but it runs and only has 94k on it so meh.
The 3500 swap WILL come next year in my automotive class though. I don't care if I have to pull out and sell a perfectly good 3400, I'm doing the built 3500.
Transmission feels a little different after the new engine and I don't like it. It doesn't shift hard into 2nd like it used to. Instead it kinda lingers for a sec then slams in like it used to. But that little half second it feels like it's in neutral. It didn't used to do that. Not sure if its the clutch between 1 and 2 or what, but it only happens at WOT (which is quite often, believe it or not lol)
Not sure if I've mentioned the aluminum radiator I did over the summer but I have footage that I'm currently trying to edit of that whole install so that should be on YouTube at some point too
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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Still just front wheel drive junk! Hahaha, just kidding. So's mine anyways haha. Good to hear that ya got 'er going again CQ! What did you get the new 3.4 out of?
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Came out of an '03 impala. Couple differences. The heads don't have the air injection so there is a little less going on under the hood, and I guess the belt is different. Sucks because I just put a brand new Dayco belt on the other engine a few months ago. And new plugs and wires less than 10k ago. And a thermostat about 500 miles ago. And I asked to have the plugs, wires, and 180 t-stat transferred over but they never were
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1000 for the whole deal. I should be able to do the 3500 swap cheap though (minus aftermarket parts) because ill be doing the labor myself and I'll have a good 3400 to sell to cover the cost of the 3500. That whole swap should be about a grand total. $450 or so for the cam, few hundred for the swap kit from milzy-motorsports, and a few hundred for hardware. Since I'm not boosting it I might not go with ARP, but I want something stronger than stock
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I was looking at my 2012 impala and they seemed to have removed that sensor location on mine. Didn't see where it is now. I was hoping to get you an alternative way to do that.
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Since installing it I've learned that that is actually the low coolant sensor. The temp sensor is in the intake manifold I think. Ill just weld a bung or something on it when I get it all apart and have access to a TIG lol
You don't need that low coolant sensor. I'm sure you got enough sense to just open the radiator cap, LOL, and they got a habit of shorting out alot giving a false reading that your coolant is low when it isn't. It just works the dummy light on the dash, it doesn't go to the computer. Plus it being unplugged is like it being plugged into the sensor while in the radiator tank and full of coolant anyways. The radiator is still a single core. It's the heavy duty one you got, that is double wide. Those work great and should keep the fan off almost all the time, even with a high temp thermostat. I'm rebuilding my wife's car now and has the same frame style, engine setup but with a 3.1 and is 91. Well older version of the setup, the fuel injection is OBD1. Yours looks like OBD2 fuel injection (96 or newer).
Transmission shifting slow, Whoever changed the motor, did they change the transmission with it? Sounds like they did or from your full throttle runs wearing out the trans. Hurting the clutches sometimes takes a minute to show symptoms. The shift from 1 to 2, sounds like maybe the accumulator isn't working right for that shift. That isn't something that usually changes or goes bad when just the engine is swapped over. The accumulator is a shock absorber in a hydraulic system (usually a spring and a piston) and the spring could be getting weak. If you have worn clutches in the pack, would take longer to complete the shift from the added distance the piston has to move. There usually is a sign of worn clutches by real dirty or black fluid from the clutch material worn off and mixed with the fluid. Or it's just the fluid needing changes. Pull the stick to look at the color. Red is good meaning bad accumulator spring and will fix itself by completely collapsing the spring on it's own. Clear fluid means it is past due for a servicing and needs changed. Black fluid and smells burnt means worn clutches. Those trans are pretty reliable for daily driving but they can't take a beating though in a factory trans that is, not a hi-performance trans and usually blow from beating on them.
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Actually I just did the fluid about 10k ago. 4.5 quarts if I remember right...3.5 was ATF, and I used a quart of that Lucas tranny fluid additive. Anyway, looks good and pink, but can still see a lot of black mixed through. When we dropped the pan to change the fluid last time, the magnet had a LOT of shavings. Maybe...half a cup? I do a fair amount of burnouts when it's wet too, which I've read can eat up the diff. I'll probably swap one in from a Grand Prix if this one goes out so I get that better final drive. Would that throw my speedometer off?
If I don't shift at WOT it shifts good and firm. Like 95% throttle, bangs into 2nd real nice. But at full 100% it lingers for just a hair longer than I like. It didn't used to do that. As far as I know, the original transmission was left in it. It only has 120k on it
The speedo should be the same or close to it. Even though tires are 15 and 16 inch rims, the outer diameter is usually the same. Grand Prix trans is the same exact trans, trust me. Sounds like you will need a trans soon, wot shifts, 95% throttle shifts. black mixed through. Yah, you are burning up the clutches. It would be best if you rebuild it yourself and make your own shift kit for it, and add clutches to the packs, if you want the trans to last. Which means learning the valve body's to figure out the fluid paths and adding pressure. I did that to my trans of that kind and nursed it another 25,000 miles until it blew the pinion gearing out the back of the case. Adding clutches and steels to the packs will make them grip better and last longer. I figure you got another 5,000 miles in the trans until it blows the clutches. The shavings on the magnet from the pan sounds like more then normal, usually a coating on the magnet about 1/16 inch thick is normal wear, but a half cup is alot and not normal. The main problem with stock trans is not enough of fluid pressure to hold clutches. Usually how it goes.
Oh, ARP doesn't sell any bolts for these motors for the bottom end, I checked there sight for my engine. I'm sure they can make some for an added price tag. Plus the bottom end would need re-machining for the bolts to hold together the part the way they should be. Would need new head bolts for sure because of the torque to yield thing when tightening them. But are pretty cheep though and easy to get from nearest auto part store
TheBeal Veteran Member
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After about 40 mins of driving the trans starts to slip. Still a baby at 130k... *sniffle wimper cry*
Replaced the rusted tailgate, now I need a hood, and to fix the rocker panels then it will be "rust free". Still, pretty decent for a PA jeep!
Got a parts jeep though, so I got a trans... downside on it, its got over 200k on it. Then again... the garbage jeep wont be goin anywhere for a while... 5 speed swap could be fun.
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If you got a maintenance manual, look through it to see if there is a way to adjust the bands in it from the outside. That's a Chrysler Jeep, I don't know too much about the trans in them, just a general idea. Maybe up the pressure in the pump to help the slipping if it doesn't mean dropping the trans and pulling the pump to do it. The clutches might be worn but more pressure will help keep them from slipping.
TheBeal Veteran Member
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I think it can be adjusted, but I have to drop the pan. At this point, I dont remember what it was... but I do remember adjusting something under there when I did the oil, and filter before.
I guess I can always look into it.
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Hey guys, thought I’d update everyone on my current daily. I bought another car hahaha. I still have the maroon impala, there is nothing wrong with it and it isn’t going anywhere...ever. I bought this one to flip, but am dailying it this week because Dad paid to fill it up earlier in the week lol.
It’s another 2000 Chevy Impala, but this one is the LS. Has the 3.8, leather interior, floor shift auto, CD player, and I think those are all of the options...the ones I noticed at least. Anyway, has 230,000 miles on it. The rear struts are trashed (rear end rides like a pogo stick) and the rear strut towers are almost completely rusted through. There is an impala that came in the junkyard a couple weeks ago with brand new struts and solid wheel tubs, so I’ll get to swapping all that into this car. But now for the kicker, I only paid 200 dollars for this thing
It had been sitting for 5 months before I got it and the mice had gotten to it. Chewed through the number 3 injector lead, EVAP canister lead, and what I think is the ignition harness (all right on the front side of the intake manifold). Once I got those wires fixed it fired right up!
Anyway, pics!
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Hey guys, thought I’d update everyone on my current daily. I bought another car hahaha. I still have the maroon impala, there is nothing wrong with it and it isn’t going anywhere...ever. I bought this one to flip, but am dailying it this week because Dad paid to fill it up earlier in the week lol.
It’s another 2000 Chevy Impala, but this one is the LS. Has the 3.8, leather interior, floor shift auto, CD player, and I think those are all of the options...the ones I noticed at least. Anyway, has 230,000 miles on it. The rear struts are trashed (rear end rides like a pogo stick) and the rear strut towers are almost completely rusted through. There is an impala that came in the junkyard a couple weeks ago with brand new struts and solid wheel tubs, so I’ll get to swapping all that into this car. But now for the kicker, I only paid 200 dollars for this thing
It had been sitting for 5 months before I got it and the mice had gotten to it. Chewed through the number 3 injector lead, EVAP canister lead, and what I think is the ignition harness (all right on the front side of the intake manifold). Once I got those wires fixed it fired right up!
Anyway, pics!
no no no no, u need to send me that 3.8 so i can swap it in my Fiero.. haha nice car, i also got a second car to fix up and enjoy !
This is my new parts time daily driver, howerver i will be using it quite alot more next summer.. lets just say.. its not the best winter car, but its fun in the snow, thats for sure.
its a 4spd 1984 Pontiac Fiero with the 2.5L 4 cylinder Iron Duke engine it has 151 000Km on it. all the 92hp of pure powaa hahaha
so i bought this thing on our local classified for 650$ i got there test drove it and the guy put it on a lift so i could see the underneath of the thing, it almost rustfree! the guy got it undercoated before he used it in the last 2 winters. it had sat for 11months when i got it, we started the thing i went on a small test drive and bought it, then i came back with a friend to pick it up, i did 2 street corners when the thing completely died, turns out the alternator quit charging and the battery was already really weak. so i limped it back to the guys place, and came back the next morning with a big ass 150Ah battery i connected the thing and we left for home.. the Fiero had a seized rear caliper, and the pads and rotors were shot in the rear. lets just say it was a skecthy ride back home..
once we got it home my friend started polishing the thing.. as i worked on the mechanical aspect of it.. checked alot of stuff brake lines, fuel lines, park cables, all fluids, and got a list of everything that needed to be done to get the car reliable enought to become my daily.
so heres what we did: coolant flush engine oil and filter change fuel filter change air filter rear pads rotors and a caliper thermostat (the old one wasnt openning correctly and made the car get hot on the highway) brake fluid flush\change tires were probably 20years old, and the other set was extremely bald.. so i got some cheap used winter tires for 40$ for 4 !! the fronts are brand new ! valve cover gasket (looks really clean in there too) spark plugs and wires ignition control module and lubing up everything that could be..
i still have to do a couple things.. most of them are preventative maintenance..
distributor cap an rotor alternator front and rear shocks front pads and rotors water pump and belt change battery change headllight motor relay change ECU temperature sensor (always reads like its overheating..) rear left brake hose ignition coil wheel bearings
so right now she is driveable but i dont drive it much because it still needs an alternator and a brake hose to be safe and reliable.. i may swap a v6 into her next summer, also looking at doing a notchback to fastback swap...
oh yeah i said it was fun in the snow right ?? hahaha
CraftsmanQuad19 Veteran Member
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I think Fiero’s are pretty cool little cars. Something GM could’ve done better on with a bigger engine, but most people put SC3800s in em anyway.
But...
That’s my next point. It seems I was in the right place at the right time...again lol. The day I went to the junkyard to pull some parts for the silver car was the same day they were sending cars to be crushed. Among them, the impala I wanted parts off of. Got 4 very new struts for 100 bucks! Another car they were gonna send..hehe
A 1999 Grand Prix GTP. That fellas has a series 2 supercharged 3800. Car came in with bad trans, good engine. Asked how much they wanted for the engine, and they said 200 bucks! Said they would hold it for me on account of the cold and they’d help me pull it once it warms up a bit. Also helps that the owner of the junkyard is my younger brothers bus driver and we talk a lot on the days I ride with him. Not sure about the mileage on it, I was so focused on getting my struts, but looks to be all there and not hacked up which is kinda surprising.
So plans have changed again. Instead of a built NA 3500 I guess I’m going with a blown 3.8. The thing fell in my lap for a good price so I just had to lol. Updates as soon as I have it in my possession