"Creepy Linkage"

Hoping to find a link for visuals before I raft into this linkage adjustment issue. I've set the lever position on the mounting bracket to zero resistance "stand still" in the neutral position as best I can however, it still wants to creep after going from forward/reverse then back again. Any adjustment(s) directly connected to the trans itself will be a first for me so I wanted to float this out there for intel before I have at it (or "to" it LOL). A few vids on YT but would need to take Dramamine to compensate for the "camera bounce factor" . . .

OMG, the one handed, jittery videos are sickening. Lots of times the guy has something good to say and show but his camera zooms from 14,000 items to the next every millisecond. Why can’t they understand that moving isn’t required?
Anyway, show us pics of your shifter. Why not have a detent at neutral at least?

It would help if you told us what you're working on and maybe some pics of the parts on your machine. The more specific you are the better (IE brand and model number of machine and transmission) but it does sound like a linkage is binding and not allowing a control shaft/lever/dooflicky to return or yes maybe just needs a linkage adjustment, you haven't mentioned if it will creep both ways or just one way. One way would indicate adjustment, both ways indicate binding in the control rod/linkage

That WOULD be helpful eh LOL. This is a Hydro Gear 314-0510 on a DYT4000. It's shrouded with the skid/tow plate assembly however, all the linkage is accessible if I pull the wheel . . .

. . . don't have a side pic with the wheel off

. . . ok, I do now

. . . yes, the bracket's presently in the "free dangle" position

It looks like the transmission braces are in place. I’m guessing the transmission is tight and can’t move.
What happens if you hold the shifter while driving it? Does it still move?

The handle doesn't move under way and the creeping in neutral lessens as the grade increases which is understandable although, even at higher rpm. On level grade however, it will walk. I had scribe marked the bolt head positions before I removed it all and replaced it as such but noticed wheel spin a felt resistance while it was still hoisted in the garage. After twenty minutes of tweeking I got both wheels to lock (no free spin back or forth) and tightened the bolts right there. Shifted into forward and ramped up rpm, throttled back down, shifted into neutral . . . the creeping started again. Same thing twenty minutes later with reverse. I'm beginning to think Craftie has turned into a "Christine" and just doesn't want to get sent back to work LOL! My garage may have become possessed . . .

Well unless it tries to kill you I think you're overreacting a little! Lol. When resetting the neutral position you have to have it set so it won't creep when the wheels are on the ground, forget if a manual or person has told you while the rear tires are off the ground only because I've tried that and couldn't find the sweet spot which may I add is like splitting hairs! Lol but seriously! Tiny adjustment, put it back on it's wheels, test, repeat until you've found that sweet spot. I've looked at the exploded view of your hydro gear and tractor and see how it's set up, if I were you I would unhook the whole control rod setup and check it front to back to make sure there's no binding preventing the system from going freely to neutral and would deburr and oil everything up while I was there. The control plate itself could be stiff...


. ..or the "wedge friction pad" (81) and "puck inner wedge" (90) may be worn and not holding it neutral anymore? It may rely on that friction I would assume or those parts wouldn't be there.



Anyhoo that's all I have for now, let us know how you're making out/made out or if you still need help, we're here for ya!

Hmmm… I have one of those transmissions I think. It was on the frame I used on the Rat Rod. Everything is off and disassembled now, except the transmission itself.
This is how it was connected. I’ll try to look at the transmission tomorrow and see if I can figure out anything. I’ve never really looked at it closely. Someone obviously removed the right wheel with a torch.

Just had another look at your highlight. I loosened the nut just a few turns to pivot and examine the surface of the plate beneath the washer/puck. Minute striations but not scored and could use a titch of lubricating. I'm opting not to remove anything because of the spring tension I felt initially (trusting a gut feeling on that one). That plate should be a snug fit but slide smoothly with slight resistance correct?

I would assume so based on the spring and friction material(s) but I do not own one nor have I worked on one, I'm merely using my general mechanical knowledge to try and help. If you look in the picture above posted by @Nevadablue the spring you speak of is visible, if you ask him nicely maybe he could back that nut of to get an idea if it's going to be a pain to reinstall it (probably not), show us what's hiding behind and give an idea of how it should feel. He is a pretty helpful fella and happens to have one "in stock"! Lol

My friend (and neighbor) has the same tractor BUT it's not accessible quite yet or I'd check it out myself. The thing that makes me curious is wondering what has prompted it to start creeping?

Maybe time for an air purge procedure?

My thanks to all once again. I was able to get the whole enchilada cleaned and lubricated by loosening the nut just enough that nothing moved out of place. Tightened it back to where it glides nicely with just a gentle push & pull on the lever knob and no slippage. When the paint's dry on the lever I'll reinstall it and find the neutral sweet spot. With arthritic fingers crossed, I'm hoping to be pleased with the results . . .