Keizer the Little Cub Cadet 122 is growing up

You're gettin' that thing tuned in real fine like eh? lol! You're doin' great!

Amazing work man! I love to see people with this much dedication to there build. Lovely idea with the pivot pin. I am looking to take ths slop out of the articulation on one of my machines and will definitely take that into consideration.

Hmm, I wonder if it would be beneficial to rig up an oil cooler?

You would just have to find a way to pump the oil is all, but other than that it would be pretty straight forward.

Mister_Studabaker wrote:

Thanks guys,  Taking axle slop out is huge.  Tortured it yesterday and came through with flying colors.  Axle rolled up nicely from a deep rut to a high berm going down hill.

Other news did some 3k to 2k timing adjustment surprisingly the timing stayed at 33°.  Did a speed run afterwards and attained a top speed of 22.4 up hill on pavement.  That's about 4800 rpm.  Ran it again to make sure number was accurate, which it was.  The third run something happened.  Keizer slowed down a lot with a top speed at 16mph.  Hmm!  Drove home thinking uphill power run ran out of fuel.  Time for a fuel pump.  Picked one up 2-4psi and installed.  Lowered the float to accommodate the higher pressure and proceeded to test run.  Same result as third run.  UH OH!!!  This is not a good sign. Changed the oil found lots of aluminum chips.  Oh Crap!!!  Did it again, fried a rod.  Its either the oil or the Kohler doesn't like timing over 32°.  Funny thing is MBT (Max Brake Torque)is around 34° could be 32° as well.  At 36° lost power.  Looking into Kart racing oil.  Any ideas?  

Regards, Mister Studabaker

Maybe see how the piston rod failed. Rubbing off aluminum on the cap, on the rod end, of the bearing journal? Stretching of the bolts, cap? is an easy one. Too much timing would push the oil out of the way and burn the bearing journal.  Timing of an engine without any advancement ability, is usually set for cruise speed. Does your engine have any advancement ability?  Using a stationary ignition system for power tuning creates problems as you can see. 33 degrees is a lot of timing and putting stress on parts at lower rpms, is probably where the piston rod is failing and don't know it. The lower rpm's might be where the oil is getting pushed out of the journal and frying the rod and notice it only at high rpm's. Maybe make some kind of advancement setup for the ignition, if you don't have anything like that yet. Oil does have limitations, especially on splash lube systems, even though your rod has an oil hole on the cap dipper. Or maybe make an oil circuit for just the rod and main bearings. could be doable by drilling some holes and using an electric fuel pump.  

As for the timing of the ignition itself, after a certain rpm, the engine makes it's own timing for the rest of the rpm's. For example, my jeep engine likes 42 degrees of total timing. The timing curve starts at off idle, and the advance curve brings all the timing in at 1750 rpm. So from 1751 rpm and up, the engine makes it's own timing to carry the rpm's up to redline of 5500 rpm's.  Every engine's rpm is different at where it starts to make it's own timing and depends on how the cylinders work pretty much.

Just some ideas floating around in my head.

Update:  Put the crank in an old block along with the rod and an old piston to set up the lapping of the crank pin.  Used valve lapping compound to true things up along with a fresh set of bearing inserts.  The crank pin turned out pretty good.  Pretty close to round all the way around.  Though the one section still has a groove that is about .0005" smaller that the rest.  Set the clearance at .0035-.004".




After modifying the bearing insert to align with the rod oiling hole, thinking, leave this as one oil hole set up.  Chamfered the bearing edges to fit the crank and ran a dry fit.  Looks good to me "Sending it to the TTC"


Most recent install as of today 8/14/19 Keizer has a Prototype tuned intake.  Could not resist this one.  Used 1-1/2 drain pipe for sinks.  Size is a little big for a perfect tune but hey this stuff is all guess work any way.  Each motor is different.  After a few hiccups and a couple of drag starts the power band is beginning to show up in the low to mid range power 2500 to 4000 rpm.  Lost some at the top and that is ok it still revs to 5K.  The original air filter backing was left as a stick guard.  



Regards, Mister Studabaker

I saw the video earlier today, Keizer is definitely a force to be reckoned with!

Congrats on the wins!

Nice... that thing is a tank!

I didn't read through this thread previous to the top tractor challenge. Pretty cool being able to play with the ignition timing so easily. I've gotta read this through from the beginning when I get a chance. This thing sounded pretty hot at the event, congrats on the win! Not sure if you stated it earlier in your thread but what kind of mill do you have? I bought a small one off littlemachineshop.com about a year ago with a tiny lathe to play with cylinder heads and stuff and it's nice for aluminum.

Question, not sure if you mentioned it or not, but does that Cub have a locked trans?  Maybe a limited slip trans?  I noticed you can hit those turns well but still 2 wheel peel...

Well done & congratulations ! A lot of work and trial and error payed off !

I'd still call it a work of Art! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder !!

Mister_Studabaker wrote:

Wonder what you would call taking 3 months to perfect mechanical parts?

Bringing The Monster To Life sounds about right to me!

I was thinking today, since you have the ability to program your spark settings, is it possible to set up a rev limiter? Or do you have one set already? Not sure what kind of program ect that your using, maybe it wouldn't be too hard though.

I was just curious. That's pretty neat though.

Are you running a stock cam?

Edit: Saw the nifty pics on the first page, that's a pretty nice kit they give you with that ignition setup. Nice work with the valves and head also. Looks cool!

Edit #2: This might be Top secret information, but how much does your Kohler weigh?

Nice. The good thing about those older cast iron engines is that they have a lot of meat on them for modifications. You could probably make your own billet connecting rod with your mill if you wanted to. Gotta watch the worlds fastest indian (2005) if you haven't seen it before.

Yup, an old busted prop off an airplane would do nicely for some meat for a connecting rod.