Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:44 pm
He said no valve movement either. Now I’m not sure exactly how these kohlers are put together, but I’m pretty sure if the con-rod was the only thing wrong the valves would still move
biggasmowers Prybar
Age : 20 Join date : 2016-12-30 Posts : 1943 Forum Rep : 69 Location : Kansas
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:59 pm
Hmmm Could be the compression release mechanism
AllisKidD21 Moderator
Age : 22 Join date : 2016-07-10 Posts : 5112 Forum Rep : 274 Location : Ontario Canada
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Wed Mar 07, 2018 4:29 pm
If I recal correctly you can't really tell if the piston and valves are moving with a screwdriver on these because the spark plug hole is directly above the combustion chamber, unless you got in on a weird angle or what have you. I thought about stuck valves too because it could easily happen if the engine sat outside for a long time. But since the crank can be spun so easily and have momentum, there's definitely something else very wrong. Even if a valve was stuck open there would be a bit of resistance due to the piston moving up and down in the cylinder.
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Yeah I thought so too, engines don't turn that freely normally
Yeah, unforunately it might be kinda screwed. Probably be easiest to just swap the carb and stuff on one of the other engines after checking the internals and stuff.
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
- MTD Off-Road Build - Ford LT 110 Off-Road Build - Craftsman GT 6000 Off-Road Build - Sears LT11 Rat Rod Build *2019 Build-Off Winner!*
- Allis B-110 x2, 710 & 716 - Wheel Horse 655, 953 & 500 Special - Case 444 - Bolens Versamatic & 1668 - Cub 106 & 124 - Ford LGT 125 & 145 - White 1650 Yard Boss
Double W Cross Ranch DimeWeld
Age : 17 Join date : 2017-06-09 Posts : 2613 Forum Rep : 89 Location : Literally Nowhere, Texas
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:06 pm
Okay so here's why I think the con rod is snapped.
It also catches sometimes. Okay, so build plans are: Rear plow, probably will start with a sleeve hitch because I have one, lol, may upgrade to a 3 point Front bucket 2 2,000 LBS winches, front and back Roll bar Diesel swap (?) Gonna try to keep the vari drive, we'll see how much it slips Pulley swap, 4" rear, 6" front Ags, front and rear Diff lock turbo charger maybe.... Should be really cool! Ideas are welcome!
Last edited by Double W Cross Ranch on Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
Crazy_Carl BoogerWeld
Age : 32 Join date : 2017-10-30 Posts : 2328 Forum Rep : 145 Location : Rochester, New York
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:10 pm
It'd hard for me to tell from that video exactly what is going on with that motor. I like your build plan. I would take 5 minutes and pull the head off this motor to see what's going on with the piston and valves. What do you have to loose?
Nope, way yonder too cheap! JK, the head is held on with studs. They were all seized, I couldn't fit my ratcheting boxed end wrench on it, and I had like half a centimeter to turn the wrench. Not ideal, haha.
Age : 22 Join date : 2016-07-10 Posts : 5112 Forum Rep : 274 Location : Ontario Canada
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:27 pm
Make sure when you remove and re-install the head you do it with the proper pattern. Don't wanna risk warping it, haha. Sucks about the con rod but it's no surprise I guess since you kinda figured that was the issue. Hopefully you can get 'er running again!
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
And make sure to torque them to the proper torque when you put it together, because you are putting this back together.
I agree very much so with both of these statements.
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
- MTD Off-Road Build - Ford LT 110 Off-Road Build - Craftsman GT 6000 Off-Road Build - Sears LT11 Rat Rod Build *2019 Build-Off Winner!*
- Allis B-110 x2, 710 & 716 - Wheel Horse 655, 953 & 500 Special - Case 444 - Bolens Versamatic & 1668 - Cub 106 & 124 - Ford LGT 125 & 145 - White 1650 Yard Boss
biggasmowers Prybar
Age : 20 Join date : 2016-12-30 Posts : 1943 Forum Rep : 69 Location : Kansas
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 10:35 pm
Liken said, your connecting rod is toast lol.
RichieRichOverdrive DimeWeld
Age : 18 Join date : 2016-10-29 Posts : 2945 Forum Rep : 125 Location : Lewisburg, KY
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 10:38 pm
I actually just watched your video there, does this engine have an electric clutch? Or some sort of mechanical engage ones? I have a pto clutch from I think a wheel horse, it's two pieces; one is keyed to the crankshaft, one slides on the crank to engage the with the other one (it has a pullley on it). Or at least that's how I think it works. been a while since I looked at it.
Also I'd like to note that a used con rod is cheaper than a diesel
AllisKidD21 Moderator
Age : 22 Join date : 2016-07-10 Posts : 5112 Forum Rep : 274 Location : Ontario Canada
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:00 pm
Or better yet, free out of one of the other two engines.
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Make sure when you remove and re-install the head you do it with the proper pattern. Don't wanna risk warping it, haha. Sucks about the con rod but it's no surprise I guess since you kinda figured that was the issue. Hopefully you can get 'er running again!
I actually just watched your video there, does this engine have an electric clutch? Or some sort of mechanical engage ones? I have a pto clutch from I think a wheel horse, it's two pieces; one is keyed to the crankshaft, one slides on the crank to engage the with the other one (it has a pullley on it). Or at least that's how I think it works. been a while since I looked at it.
Also I'd like to note that a used con rod is cheaper than a diesel
Actually it's manual, but I've never seen anything like it. Doesn't work, though. Yeah it is. But I'm currently swapping one out of one of the others.
Or better yet, free out of one of the other two engines.
Yeah better than nothing, at least I could sell the Kohler then.
biggasmowers Prybar
Age : 20 Join date : 2016-12-30 Posts : 1943 Forum Rep : 69 Location : Kansas
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:53 pm
If ypur still going for a diesel, look for old generators , as they can have air cooled diesel 10 hp motors and the engines can be fine but the generator is worn out. Maybe put an ad on craigslist.
AllisKidD21 Moderator
Age : 22 Join date : 2016-07-10 Posts : 5112 Forum Rep : 274 Location : Ontario Canada
Subject: Re: $25 1968 John Deere 110 Pre-Build Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:59 pm
Just remember though that a generator engine will have a tapered PTO journal, so a regular pulley won't work. Doesn't mean it's impossible, I'm just saying. Haha.
_______________________________________________ "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill