"Dinky" (Crafstman 917.254650)

figured i wold give you an update, i got a new idelr pully for dinky, but the last 2 weeks getting spark has been iffy on the left silinder, on a drive to tractorsupply running on 1 cilinder to buy new spark plugs it lost all spark as i pulled in the parking spot. orded new coil on ebay.

mean while that john deere has goten alot of dents from me hitting it while trying to replace the starter realy. theres no damn room to work in that thing, i hate it, john deer is horrible, im never picking one up agin. that thing is HORRIBLE to work on.

for the john Deere i have decided since i cant get the starter relay bolted in without basically gutting the tractor im just welding the thing to the frame. then i will have fixed the no start, ile have to figure out why there is no fuel pump action next.

I'm interested to see a picture of this solenoid fiasco

video of that coming soon, so i replaced dinky's non working magneto and idler pully... then the couch pully blew out 30min lator. im still in the hole form buying a shotgun so dinkys not going to drive for atleast 3 more weeks.

Which mower are you going to shoot? The JD? LOL.

i did not get it to shoot a tractor, i got it to do alot of sh*t like this

dinky went down some roads its never been on.

this is a clip from the video, my first time catching me wrecking dinky in some form.

im uploading the video now, but dinky has been beaten by the trails and i have not been matancing or even noticing things breaking on it. bolt flew out of left front transaxle mount, frame crackd and mount snaped on right front transaxle mount, belt guids in back are wibly wobly from being attached to thoese mounts, and my finder shifter has an ubsurd amount of play in it now.

the driving experience is it shifts reallyhard now, and it throws and twist the belt about every 10-20min of drive time. when you stop or sudenly take your fot off the gas you can feel the trans axle rock and nock on things.

i got some work to do but im going to get you guys my snow drift video even if its not that good.

help: can some one show me what the factry fender shifter setup looks like from the transaxle end. since i now have the fenders that shifter goes to im trying to undo my stuff that made it work on dinkys stock fenders.

in this video i fix my belt poping issue and make my shifting much better, its why i was asking for a pic of a stock AYP fender shifter setup. i cold not seem to get the parts to work, maby stuff on this frame are located a little differently than they were on the redneck mower.

2 more update videos to show you how were handling the snow. im going to change my oil at some point to day and im putting that STP whats its thats supposed to help with compression loss. see if i can get more power.

well guys, kiss the doc locker good buy, im about to do the Ripka Locker




the axle shaft has 2 1/4" keystocks off by 45 deg to hold the hub to the shaft, he used a mill to cut the key ways and modify a tool he called a "brosh" or somthing to allow him to put these 2 keyways in the hub, he used a hydrolic press to smash them in. and the keystock he made super flat with some tool i dont even know what its called, but its like a grinder that goes back and forth over a magnetic table and has precise controls. i wish i tool video, because i was there while he was working on it and helped alittle.

not shure when im building this rear or when its getting installed in dinky. i dont need solid diff in the snow.

That's a broach bud. I've wanted one a few times, always ended up using a file instead.

Looks skookum. Bet it'll hold up

I have some broaches, but not the collets they go in. Man would it be nice to have some of that equitment...

TheBeal wrote:

I have some broaches, but not the collets they go in. Man would it be nice to have some of that equitment...

i know the feel, he said his mill was 6 grand. then theres all the bits and tools, and other things he used, like the hydroic press... witch looks unique because he just bought the ram part and he build the rest using tools around the shop and junk pile metal.

any ways, without the lock collars, bearings, and washers, here is how some of the other things will fit together




if this ever fails the next upgrade is larger keyways and keystock. when i build it, ile be easy on it for 2 weekends, then im goimg to hemmer it puching the throttle throwing my front end in the air while my tiers throw mud in the air and full bore top gear down the rock filled paths in the woods like i do know when i go solo.

i shold be a stress tester, because if it can break, will break it, then improve apon that break till i cant! im like natural selection for tractors.

always watching your interesting vids

The other tool you were unsure about is called a surface grinder.  It's meant for grinding surfaces really flat and parallel.

This looks like a pretty stout locker.  How about 3 or 4 keyways on the axle shaft?  That would almost be like a splined shaft at that point which is much harder to strip out.

My only concern is the small tack welds holding the larger keystock on.  If those tack welds stress crack and those keys come loose, that would be bad.  You could hold those on with fasteners into the side of the keystock going into the hub.  The screws could loosen but they won't back all the way out because the ring gear is stopping them from doing so.

I LOVE YOUR DOC LOCKER IMPROVED VERSION!!!
Carl's Idea is really good!

Gonna plan on prolly copying that thing and bringing it to stage 3 lol

Sweet locker dude! That should last, i hope. lol

Crazy_Carl wrote:

The other tool you were unsure about is called a surface grinder.  It's meant for grinding surfaces really flat and parallel.

This looks like a pretty stout locker.  How about 3 or 4 keyways on the axle shaft?  That would almost be like a splined shaft at that point which is much harder to strip out.

My only concern is the small tack welds holding the larger keystock on.  If those tack welds stress crack and those keys come loose, that would be bad.  You could hold those on with fasteners into the side of the keystock going into the hub.  The screws could loosen but they won't back all the way out because the ring gear is stopping them from doing so.

thoes welds dont even need to be there, the key stock is also held in with a pin down the center and with washers on other side. i suggested opposing keystock, ripka said for some reason the off axis 90deg thing was the way to go, i forget why but apparently its stronger. every cut in the shaft alos makes it a little weaker. we well see how this plays out and learn from its destruction if it happens agin.

ah, I'm still a little confused.  Would you post up a pic of the pins and washers?  This machinist sounded like a good craftsman to work with.

I think one of the things he was getting at was having 2 keys on the axle was better than just having one.  Evidently he has or knows someone that has sheered the single key in a doc locker.  My Doc Locker has held up fine now for 2 years. 

MightyRaze wrote:

I think one of the things he was getting at was having 2 keys on the axle was better than just having one.  Evidently he has or knows someone that has sheered the single key in a doc locker.  My Doc Locker has held up fine now for 2 years.  :hmm:

if your talking about my, i sheard keystock in my first 15min of test driving. took a trip to walmart and back. i thought i was having belt slip (somthing i never actually had on my current setup unless somthing went REALLY wrong.) and i drove it for hours being annyed with the slip, when i parked it, never drove agin, and that hub was not coming off the axle.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

ah, I'm still a little confused.  Would you post up a pic of the pins and washers?  This machinist sounded like a good craftsman to work with.

in time, i need to wait till next check, then i buy RTV an i can assemble ile. ile need to grind down 2 of my washers to make the fit perfect. i dont want them to rub, but also dont want much play left and right.h