An idea if you wanted to retain the louvres would be to cut out some of the nose and put in a piece of your louvres. I won’t tell you how to build your machine though, you are doing a fantastic job either way.
It's an idea, but that area will be filled with the hydraulic reservoir/tank and below it will be the main Hyd cooler. So you'd be able to see through the louvers, but it would be nothing but a big aluminum tank.
JD hood hinges showed up late today so I quickly threw them on before packing it in for the night:
Hinges are from a 318 IIRC.
Hood opens like my Corvette now!
Thats still pretty rough, but with some fettling they’ll be just what I’m looking for. Theres a fourth rod that goes on the rh side, I just haven’t gotten it fit yet. Right now the bolts are just drilled through the hood. Not a big deal as I’ll be welding them in place and then grinding down the heads to flush with the hood skin.
Now I’ll actually be able to check oil levels or add oil without crazy arm twisting, scraping knuckles or needing funnels with long hoses on them. The “car style” opening hood was a neat little Murray feature, but totally impractical for the way the Briggs is designed...unless the only thing you need access to is the air filter that is. Much better having the hood swing up and out/forward. Completely out of the way now.
TourMax Frequent Poster
Join date : 2018-10-06 Posts : 437
Subject: Re: MUT: Murray Utility Tractor March 12th 2021, 10:56 am
Done playing games now boys:
That's a Case 220/444/644 transaxle. About as HD as it gets for a garden tractor.
Quick inspection reveals everything is tight and the gears have no nicks, burrs of chipping. Wear pattern is about perfect for straight cut gears.
I'll still gut it and clean it all. there's quite a bit of dirt and rust particles floating around in side it. from What I can tell, it all got inside the transaxle during breakdown (IE: the hyd motor was pulled off the side of the gearbox) of the tractor it was in. There's no damage inside, so that jives with the contamination getting in when they pulled the Hyd motor off. best to pull it down and clean it now, before any damage is done to what seems like a pristine gearbox.
Looks pretty good! The rest is just bolting things together, some brackets and hydraulic plumbing. Doesn’t sound like much, but probably take me 3-4 months to complete it right down to the loader and 3 point hitch. Not to mention a complete re-wiring job....
Taking a pause for the duty cycle on my TIG right now. Plus, I’m old and I just wanted to take a break.
You’ll have to pardon my crap AL welding. I’m not a professional and I haven’t tig’d AL for many months now so I’m waaaaay out of practice. You’ll have to pardon my crap AL welding. I’m not a professional and I haven’t tig’d AL for many months now so I’m waaaaay out of practice.
It’s solid and water tight, so I can’t ask for much more than that from my skill level. I’d love to be able to lay a “stack of dimes”, but I just don’t do enough of it to get that good at it.
Pretty sure I’m going to make a filler neck and place the cap in the RH fender:
Just seems to feel more “finished” that way. It will also be getting a cab for winter work so no hassle with lifting the seat and PITA maneuvering around in the cab to refuel it.
Now thinking I might be able to get everything out of the middle “deck space” and make it flat like the case models where you can “step through”. The older I get the harder it is to lift my feet up and over the “hump”. Making it a flat deck (like the case tractors) will make my life soooo much easier.