Craftsman LT1000 "NellyBelle"

Thanks! I'm excited to drive it!

Those are really cool looking on there. They sure win in the looks department and they perform well too from what I hear.

Yeah, I bet they will! They have very deep tread and tread on the sidewalls.

Wow they look great on that body style ! wish i would have done that on my craftsman lt1000 when i had it . What does it lack to test drive ? wiring is optional after all

Belt is finicky, whenever I shift, even without using the clutch, the belt comes off. I think I know what it is, though, I'll try to work on it later, I need it on Monday.

Might need some belt keepers and your pulleys could be out of alignment .

Looking back at your pictures, looks like your belt is twisting for some reason?  I don't see why it would.  Look at your pictures from earlier on the non-clutch side.





Maybe it is just an optical illusion.  Also, maybe an illusion, is your transaxle pulley parallel to the belt?  Looks to be tilted down? I see front bracing on that, so probably an illusion.  10lb weighs inside your rims?



...but definately a couple more belt guilds.

Maybe one here?


Then maybe a couple here?


If like drawn, that would be a stretch, and would need to be strong or some kind of bracing in there.

If that still does not work, maybe another J guild to hold a clutched belt from sagging too much?  The clutch is pretty close to the engine allowing for a lot of unsupported space.

If that all still does not work, maybe look at that engine pulley?  Looks like you have a 5/8 belt and that pulley looks like a 1/2 groove?  The belt seems to stick out of the V a bit.

Only other thing throwing me in your pictures, in one the belt is frame side of the clutch pulley, in the next it is center of the frame side of the clutch pulley?  First 2 pics of yours that I reposted.  You have a double pulley?  If so that is good.

Sorry, that was a awful lot of info I feel.  Just want you to be able to get your rig out and have some FUN!

pretty sure Its a 1/2" belt , but the pulley in front is cast aluminum and not designed for clutching aplications with more that 1 or 2 hp . the clutch is most likely the issue if its not the drive pulleys because of how junky those style are and have one pivot point with very thin steel so it does flex under tension . but the front pulley looks pretty low on the shaft so that could be the issue .

The tranny is loose, and it rocks when you shift. The belt stays on when the bolts are there, and you can fully operate the clutch. I do need belt retainers, but the main issue is trying to keep the horizontal bolts in the tranny. I was told by the manufacturer that the pulley was cast iron. Don't know if it is true, its not very heavy. I'm sure the front pulley is in alignment, idk about the rear. I'll look at everything later. Thanks for all the help!!!

That trans is cast aluminum and strips out easily.

Lol, Im a redneck, can figure anything out, usually without spending any money! I'll try glue! Lol

Or...I have a Peerless 5 speed. It came out of a 77' Rally Roper, and as far as I know, it is the original tranny, so it's 40 years old.... I don't really want to because I always hoped to get the Roper running again. I painted it and cleaned it up and it looked really good!
Before:

After:

It has a really cool looking body, and it is very unique! There are very few out there. The engine is now the engine this build, cause I wanted a v-twin in the Roper.
The tranny is slightly damaged. The input pulley is hard to turn, but it didn't do that until I opened it, so I must have messed it up....

Here's the damage, looks like someone high-centered it on a rock, and then tried to rock it back and forth.

It's more noticeable on the inside. Tips on the input pulley issue???

Check and make sure all the bushings inside are lined up right. There is (for lack of a better term) a keyway cast into the bushings that are supposed to fit into a notch. One of those probably is just misaligned

Nope, checked them a million times. Works until I put the top case on.

so the spicer bolts that are stripped are the case bolts or the bolts that hold the front to the frame ? i have stripped out those and i just tack welded the bolt to the support to hold it in and also used jb weld in it

Bolts that hold the front to the frame.

Try jb weld epoxy or a slightly longer bolt with epoxy ,

Oh and the front engine pulley looks like cast aluminum , unless its a cast iron thats galvinised

Got the wiring almost done, need to do the headlights and finish drilling the ground wire. I'm gonna put belt keepers on, then glue the bolts into the tranny, then I should be ready to drive!!!

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Nope, checked them a million times. Works until I put the top case on.

Mine seemed super tight, once I put a bead of rtv around and let that cure a bit before putting the top back on gave me a hair more clearance allowing for free movement.

Probably it, does work when the bolts aren't too tight.

My peerless 930 was like that, its fine with a lot of rtv compounding it.

Did some research on the tranny, it is 41 years old, and it is a Peerless 920! Very happy with it, it is definitely going in the Craftsman. Not too happy about losing 6th gear, but oh well. I'll probably sell the Spicer on Craigslist. I sell my decks, deck mounts, and tractor parts I won't need again on Craigslist and it is definitely worthwhile.

nice mud lites im jealous..

lol!

UPDATE!

Got the tranny bolted in place, now I need to put the seat on, gonna take it up the road to a friends house in the next few days. Will get a speed reading then. Didn't get too much work done, it was 14 degrees outside with wind and mist. Didn't stay too long!

Have fun with it man! If I were you I'd check the heat of the trans once in a while, just put your hand against it and feel it. If it gets more than lukewarm then you should tear into the trans and see what's up with it. I usually check the heat of the trans in my rigs after every run, just to see if she's getting too warm and if it needs some oil or something.