2024 Build Off Talk About Thread!

Definitely get and post some pics but the best tractors to start off with are gear driven garden tractors with a Roper 633a or a Peerless 2300 and of course anything that has a 820 in it would be an excellent choice as well! Ones to stay away from, and this is just my opinion are tube frame Bolens (backflip hazard because of the worm drive), Simplicity, Gravely and Allis Chalmers all because of their complexity and their proprietary parts that can be tough to get. It's been proven here many times that even lighter duty lawn tractors can be built into some bad@$$ rigs

In my opinion the transaxle should always take priority over anything else on your tractor. A strong engine will break a weak transaxle, but a strong transaxle will not break a weak engine. A V twin is cool but i think durability should be considered before anything else. 12hp flatty + 820 is a better option than a big twin and a MST206. As for frames, they can be easily reinforced, and tons of different solutions are available for steering. I've used a bunch of them myself.

@Brianator
I will get some pics of the tractors, as i said, this weekend im gonna take a look at them. I have no idea what transaxle they have, so im gonna take the one with the strongest transaxle, even if its the mower that has no engine, i can use my murrays engine for the buildoff tractor and get a 'new' used one for the murray.

@RichieRichOverdrive
Yes, this was what i was thinking about too! I dont need to worry about steering parts, because imma build a mower on tracks, thats why i need a strong transaxle that has no locked differential (without a working differential, i cant steer the tracks on both sides)

@Crazy_Carl
A tractor on tracks (with suspension), thats my idea that i want to build. Thats also why it needs a strong and fully functional transaxle with a differential.

Decided not to enter the old roper craftsman hybrid.  Just too far gone at this point.  I am trying to drum up a deal on a new ride.  Here's hoping that works out.

MightyRaze wrote:

Decided not to enter the old roper craftsman hybrid.  Just too far gone at this point.  I am trying to drum up a deal on a new ride.  Here's hoping that works out.

Guess I have been ghosted...  Bummer.

MoTiJo wrote:

@RichieRichOverdrive
Yes, this was what i was thinking about too! I dont need to worry about steering parts, because imma build a mower on tracks, thats why i need a strong transaxle that has no locked differential (without a working differential, i cant steer the tracks on both sides)

Given you will be using the heck out of the differential, it would be good if you found a peerless 2300 or 820, their axles run in bearings and have steel cut gears in the diffs. I think the 2300 has some extra needle bearings where the 820 has thrust washers, though I doubt it really makes a difference. Most any other transaxle you’ll find will just have the axle and differential running against the case where you may or may not be able to add a bearing.

MightyRaze wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

Decided not to enter the old roper craftsman hybrid.  Just too far gone at this point.  I am trying to drum up a deal on a new ride.  Here's hoping that works out.

Guess I have been ghosted...  Bummer.

That is where 99.9% of good deals (or any for that matter)go to die

It appears I have been ghosted.  If I hear nothing today, the Redneck tractor is back in the mix.  I wonder if I could retrofit an peerless 820 in that thing?  Or just fix the ayp 101417x (modern 633a).

Well that blows @MightyRaze but you have lots of time to find the right tractor if you'd rather not build that one. I hate when people ghost you, it's rude.

@RichieRichOverdrive
You are right, i would like to get a peerless 820 or a peerless 2300, sadly they are really expensive here in germany and hard to get. If i find a 820 (or 2300) i'll buy it for sure, if the mower i'll buy has a cheap transaxle imma use it till it breaks and then get a better one!

@MightyRaze sorry I figured that was a statement non-negotiable

MoTiJo wrote:

@RichieRichOverdrive
You are right, i would like to get a peerless 820 or a peerless 2300, sadly they are really expensive here in germany and hard to get. If i find a 820 (or 2300) i'll buy it for sure, if the mower i'll buy has a cheap transaxle imma use it till it breaks and then get a better one!

I’m a firm believer in running what you got! Makes for some creative solutions sometimes.

ranch king pro 08 wrote:

@MightyRaze sorry I figured that was a statement non-negotiable

What's sad, is his price was good and I said I would get it and asked when I could get it.  That was 3 days ago.

Brianator wrote:

Well that blows @MightyRaze but you have lots of time to find the right tractor if you'd rather not build that one. I hate when people ghost you, it's rude.

Not the first time.  I hate when they do not respond and then they take the ad down like a day later.  The best one was the guy when I got to his place stripped some of the mower down and said, this is what the ad said.  I looked again and he had clearly "edited" it while I was on my way to his house.  That dude was a pure jerk.  I just said, not interested then turned and walked away.

> who's planning on entering and what are you building!?

I decided a few days ago  to enter, I was going to start cutting the frame material and luckily I read the topic and then the rules.  So, I will wait the 7 days to get started in earnest.

6x6 with hydraulic driven manual transaxles, probably all peerless.  I have started disassembling the "non-op" stuff I bought at auction to collect the parts, while I wait.  I am sick of messing around with mowing decks, so, I am building companion push or pull mowers with their own engine.

Plus, it is eventually getting a FEL.

I am going to start with a John Deere LX172, then if it  correctly works, transfer it to a frame I that is mocked up and welded.  Probably start with wood, position the scrap axles with wheels to see about clearance issues, then weld the metal frame while over the wood frame.

Since at least the rear axle will be locked, I might go with 2 axle steering for axles 1 and 2.  My main debate at this point is if I should go with a front "locked" as in non-pivoting axle or a pivoting axle.

I think I want the front tires to stick out at least 3 inches to provide good attack angle when trying to climb a steep slope.

Well guys I will enter my build off entry the 1st an I can't wait to see the fun of it .