'86 Westwood T1200

Thanks. Yeah it is heavy duty.

So if you remember a while back one of the brake caliper bolts from the trans fell out and the brake pads, backing plate and dowel pins fell out. I ordered up a piece of 8mm Stainless steel rod to make the brake dowel pins from, which arrived today.

Cut into 3/4" lengths. I just did this with the angle grinder and squared the ends up with a buffing disk. Turned out quite good.

Also cut out a new backing plate.


Drilled out and tapped the trans case for an M8 bolt and assembled it together. The threads for the other bolt are nearly stripped too so I will need to drill and tap it out too. But anyway I decided to give it a test drive, even though it was dark and I had to jump start it because the recoil rope broke. Feels nice to have brakes again, I need to adjust the linkage a bit though. Next job is to order up another axle bearing (I only ordered one up last time ), an input bearing for the trans axle and maybe buy or make a new rear pulley.

Nice brake fix!

very nice brake fix. I forget does this westwood have the Peerless 2300 series?

I believe he has an MST.

Yes MST 205. Thanks for the positive comments!

Nice fix. I plan to tap my brake caliper bolt holes to 5/16" some time, after snapping off so many 1/4-20s

Thanks Richie.

So I got my battery. It is bigger than I thought it would be so I probably will have to put it under the seat instead of under the hood. I've got the day off on Wednesday so I'll hopefully get it wired up then.

That's a small car battery, not really a lawn and garden variety but if you can make it work cool.

A lawn tractor battery was the same price but less CCA. And I have to make it work now because I'm not buying another battery

Well that Wednesday came and went and I never got it wired up. Decided I'm going to put the battery under the seat, as that's the only place it will fit. If I get a spare minute or two on Saturday I will weld up a 'cage' to hold the battery.

nah, just do what a car audio guy wold do. sky high car audio 0 gage running everywere to a single buss bar, 6 XSpower batteries or yellow tops, and 3 300-600amp singer or mecman alternators.

you will be able to keep holding down the start after the starter has already cought on fire and run you light bar for a month after not being able to start.

all jokes a side next build off im probably putting a car battery in the fordwheeler my self. the the extra CCA and the wheight

So bit of an update on the Westwood. I have been doing some work on it but neglected to update the thread. I firstly made up a list of areas that need improved.

• Engine
  
• Wiring
  
• Clutch/Belts/Pulleys
  
• Transaxle
  
• Other things like bodywork, tyres, exhaust.
  

I started with the wiring and rewired the whole thing with a toggle on/off switch and push button ignition. The battery that I had planned to put in this cracked a hole in the side of it because I didn't remove the transport plugs that allow ventilation, so I borrowed one from my other tractor for now. Ah well, it was too big anyway.



I know it looks a bit of a mess but I am going to redo some of the poorer connections and also get red wire for the positive battery terminal. I did have the lights hooked up and running off the battery but for some reason they have stopped working, even if I put 12v across them. Should I have put a fuse in there somewhere? 

Once I get that finished, focus will turn to the engine. It has got very little compression but doesn't burn any oil so I'm thinking the valves need lapped. I'm also going to treat it to a gasket set like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gasket-Set-Oil-Seals-Some-Briggs-and-Stratton-10HP-11HP-Vertical-Shaft-Engine/362419247573?hash=item5461ded9d5:g:drIAAOSwL1hbfSkB:rk:10
The carb also needs rebuilt and it's leaking from the bowl and the gasket set comes with a bowl gasket so that should cure it. 


Let me what you think!

nice job

That wiring doesn't really look too bad the more I look at it.  I'm not too fussy about wire colors because different manufacturers use different colors all the time.  I would put a 20 amp fuse or so in the white wire that goes to your push button switch from the battery.  I'm very suspect of the electrical tape where the small wires are spliced into the large cables on the battery.  You really should pick up some ring terminals from ebay or something where you could buy a few in bulk and save vs a local store.  What is the small black wire going to the battery for?  Is there a light switch above your pushbutton switch?  If so just get 12v next door at the pushbutton switch instead of going all the way back the battery.

SteamNut247 wrote:

nice job

Thanks!

Crazy_Carl wrote:

That wiring doesn't really look too bad the more I look at it.  I'm not too fussy about wire colors because different manufacturers use different colors all the time.  I would put a 20 amp fuse or so in the white wire that goes to your push button switch from the battery.  I'm very suspect of the electrical tape where the small wires are spliced into the large cables on the battery.  You really should pick up some ring terminals from ebay or something where you could buy a few in bulk and save vs a local store.  What is the small black wire going to the battery for?  Is there a light switch above your pushbutton switch?  If so just get 12v next door at the pushbutton switch instead of going all the way back the battery.

Thanks. Yeah I kinda done a quick job just to see if it worked, so now I'm going to redo all the bad connections. The two wires going to the battery are for the lights. I'm looking at buying this pack of ring terminals, do they look ok? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90PC-Copper-Tube-Terminals-Battery-Welding-Cable-Lug-Ring-Crimp-Connectors-UK/163336313103?hash=item26079a590fm1Kbak-C25gSnrFg5K8NxTg:rk:120
I will look into putting a fuse in the wire going to the push button, but just wondering what purpose it serves? The push button is rated at 50A. Any idea on why the lights stopped working? It isn't the wiring because I put 12v across each of them and they still don't work. Should I have put a fuse in the wiring running to the lights?

The plan for the engine is to take it off the tractor, strip it down, rebuild it with a new gasket set and give it a lick of paint.

I would get insulated ring terminals, but those would work pretty well too.  They seem very cheap which I know you like lol.

A fuse feeding the pushbutton, lights, or both serves as protection in case a 12V wire shorts to ground the fuse blows instead of the tractor catching on fire.  It almost happened in my latest live stream.

As to why your lights aren't working.  With a voltmeter or test light check for 12 volts on both sides of the switch when the switch is on, then check if you have 12 volts at the lights.  You most likely have a bad connection or the ground your using for the lights is no good.

I thought that the insulated ring terminals looked more flimsy, so I ordered a pack of the non insulated ones. While I'm fixing all the dodgy connections, I will add in a 20A fuse. I probably have a fuse holder on one of my scrap wiring looms that I've been raiding to rewire this machine. I checked the lights and am getting 12v when the light switch is on. Maybe it's to do with the way I have wired them. I just ran the ground wire from the battery to the lights, then the positive from the battery to a switch, then to the lights. The ground for the battery is good because it starts the engine fine.

So I ordered the gasket kit, some fuel line, and ring terminals tonight. I'll probably just use the head gasket, sump gasket, crank seal and carb gaskets for the moment, instead of completely stripping the engine down.

Here's some snow pics from January that I forgot to upload:

Finally got my parts ready to do the semi rebuild of the 11hp Briggs.

Great!! When do U start??

Is there also a Straight piped Stack included??

and the Pics of WW look great!!!!!

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Great!! When do U start??

Is there also a Straight piped Stack included??

Hopefully will get it started this week  A straight piped stack would be way too loud for this as it's a utility machine. I'll probably do a stack or a sidepipe with a muffler in it because the stock box exhaust sounds bad.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

and the Pics of WW look great!!!!!

Thanks

MatthewD wrote:

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Great!! When do U start??

Is there also a Straight piped Stack included??

Hopefully will get it started this week  A straight piped stack would be way too loud for this as it's a utility machine. I'll probably do a stack or a sidepipe with a muffler in it because the stock box exhaust sounds bad.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

and the Pics of WW look great!!!!!

Thanks

#stockmufflerssuck!

yeah throw a Glasspack in between, U get the straight piped sound, but it's quieter!

Got a bit of work done on the engine tonight. Drained the oil, stripped it down almost to bare block, just have to remove the carb and exhaust. Also put some paint stripper on the shroud and recoil cover to make it easier to sand off the old paint.



Next stage is to remove the carb and exhaust, and take the block off the frame. Then lap the valves, replace the gaskets and inspect the internals.

Nice to see an update Matt! Should be a good runner once she's back together.

Thanks AK. I think the reason for lack of compression and power is because the valve seats are dirty. It doesn't burn any oil so I hope it's not rings.